Featherbed frames

APRRSV

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I've been looking for a featherbed frame (preferably slimline) for several months. I've seen some on eBay but, unless I'm seeing the same one over and over again, they seem to frequently have a "hole" worn away in the bottom of one of the main tubes under the engine/transmission area. Is this a common problem?

Ed
 
Can you capture a pic and post it here.
Just for future reference.

Can't say I've seen enough slimlines to comment, but it doesn't come up in conversations.
But, one of the roadtest guys for one of the magazines took a Commando back to the distributor,
and commented that ground clearance wasn't enough.
And pointed to holes worn into the exhausts both sides !
(That is exhausts rather than frame tubes, of course.)

Probably rather depends on how heavy the rider is, and how curvy their fav-o-rite bit of road is.
But heavy riders probably need to adjust the ride height and damping rates to suit, if they use it hard.
Any good welder could patch it up, if the damage doesn't go further.

Doesn't help you much in your search though - have fun.
 
It would be impossible to wear away the frame due to lack of clearance even if cranked over further than Rossie makes it on his Yam and long before that occured you would be on your arse because your std footrest would of dug in and lifted your rear wheel off the road.....!! It is common for side stands to crush the bottom tube and the centre stand flattten the bottom of both tubes over the decades. Both easily repaired with weld...... Of course if people fit incorrectly shaped exhaust pipes they can dig in and send one down the road or into the bank at Clearways as one friend found out after fitting a set 750 exhausts to the shorter engined 500 Dommy......It did look spectacular from wgere I stood at the top of Paddock Bend!!.....
Why a Slimline? I have shortish legs but never had a problem with Wideline frames and I was not stupid enough, unlike others over the decades, to fit slimline rear suspension units which were 1 inbch shorter than wideline ones!!! Not only does the bike look rediculous side on but the groove in the rear tyre where it has worn away on a mudguard fixing is a dead givaway. There is no difference in handling between slimline and wideline ....not if set up correctly.
I had a laugh looking ip the price of the frame on E Bay and as for the prices being asked for the oter bits they are a joke but someone (I nearly said idiot) will pay them I have no doubt. How nuch would it cost I wonder to have say Terry Mead of Mead Competition Frames make a new frame and if its only to carry you around it could be made from say 17 guage T45 tube which would reduce its weight a tad. I believe he made a Slimline not long ago. Dont think he does poser stickers to shove on the frame ........
 
Could be heavy RUST damage, corroded through.

Good featherbed frames with swingarm fetch $1,000 all day, $1,200 or more in some cases.
 
Thanks for the replies. If I remember correctly, the holes were always in the vicinity of the side stand lug.

Next one I come across I'll try to post a link to a pic.

Ed
 
Leadbeater wrote: "Why a slimlime?"

I have been under the impression that other parts associated with building the motorcycle are more readily available for the slimline. I'll be happy to be corrected.

Ed
 
APRRSV said:
Thanks for the replies. If I remember correctly, the holes were always in the vicinity of the side stand lug.

Could it be that the sidestand/lug has been torn out or partly torn out, through misadventure etc. ?

This is not an unknown problem in Commando frames either, I had to weld a repair to an 850 sidestand lug, and if left in that state they can tend to tear a piece out of the frame tube even. Kickstarting on the sidestand is part of the problem here.

And if the sidestand comes down while riding, this can be even a fatal event.
Such treatment may not have the sidestand survive either...
 
APRRSV said:
Thanks for the replies. If I remember correctly, the holes were always in the vicinity of the side stand lug.

Next one I come across I'll try to post a link to a pic.

Ed

The big sump plug lies just in front of the side stand lug and is lower than the frame loop. Therefore lack of ground clearance would not be the cause of your holes, as the sump plug would grind off first, as well as the side stand lug itself.

Looking over my slimline, I see no reason for holes to be in that area unless some PO put one there.

Slick

I see Rohan has beat me to the post. His explanation is a good one. The side stand lug on the Commando is known to be a problem, but as far as I know, that problem does not occur with the Atlas/Dommie side stand. Perhaps, some PO fitted a Commando side stand to the slimline frame by welding, and then it tore out for reasons cited by Rohan.
 
Yeah, that's rust / rot on that frame.
Overall, that frame looks like dog crap to me. Certainly repairable, but the price should reflect that it needs repair.
 
In the pics someone has welded what could have been a sidestand lug to it - not very well either. !

That frame gets rougher and rougher as you view the pics.
If its rusted from water inside the frame tubes, who knows how solid it really is.
The finish on it looks strange too, is a spray bomb a rattlecan ?
 
A replica Manx frame might be a better option than a second-hand slimline. You can buy one with the 26 degree rake to suit 18 inch wheels.
 
There are so many replica Featherbed frames being made these days and not all of them are made to the orginal specs, I am lucky I have both orginal Wideline and Slimline frames but you can easely pick a genune frame from a replica frame on the orginal Featherbed they are a heavy frame but the cubing is very soft and is easely dinted, replicas are nomly a bit lighter and made of harder steel.
I have seen new replica frames going for between $2,000/$2,500 here and some cases more, there are some good built ones around but there are also the ones that don't even come close to being a Featherbed frame so you have to be very carefull when looking for a replica.
If you go for a orginal frame they also have their own problems and the biggest is rust inside the frame and how they have been stored, moister is one of the big killers of Featherbed frames and is usualy on the bottom rails that suffer from rust.
Many years ago my cousin up in Mareeba had a engerning mate who was building Wideline frames to mount up BSA singles, my cousin had one they were both members of a BSA club and he was building a few frames for other club members, It was hard for me to pick much diffrents from a orginal frame to his frames, he builds them the exact way the orginals were made, he had 2 BSA/Featherbeds one for road racing and one for the road, I got the chance to ride his road BSA it was supa light and handled pretty good but to me was missing that power a hot Commando engine has.
My own opinion would be to look for a good orginal Featherbed frame one that has no rust inside the frame, the only diffrents with a Wideline to a Slimeline is how far you like your legs spread apart when riding, I am 5'8" and the Wideline is very comfrotable for all day riding but I do have a comfortable innerstate seat, the Slimeline frames of course the knees are tucked in closer so if your a short person then a Slimeline be better for you, but if your taller then 5'7" then a Wideline is the go, both frames handle the same its all depends on what you want, myself perferr the Wideline frame, but hey I have been riding it for over 35 years now and can't wait to get back into rebuilding the 1960 Manxman caferacer rebuild that I started about 3 years ago, but its being built with a hot 650 motor that came with the box parts, the motor is not the orginal motor that came with the frame the numbers are out by 72 as this Slimline use to be raced, so don't have much orginal Manxman parts for this build, most things have been replaced with alloy (fuel tank, oil tank, wheels and a racing Lucas maggie) so all up it has some good mods but would cost to much to make it orginal again, I am building this one up for my young daughter, lucky girl.

Ashley
 
Thanks Ashley for the detailed reply. The rust problem is what I worry about most after seeing a few with holes in the lower tubing. And, when I see them advertised, they are usually a couple thousand miles away so I need to rely on pictures that don't necessarily tell the whole story.
I'm 5' 11" so I guess I'll have no problem with a wideline.
Still, I'd like to get recommendations for good replica builders, wideline or slimline.

Ed
 
McIntosh does great work.

http://www.manxnorton.co.nz/catalogue/c ... ow_parts=T

$3k NZ = ~ $2200 USD

Featherbed frames
 
Thank you Gort. I will investigate.

Also, Klaatu barada nikto :D

Ed
 
There are a few sources of replica featherbeds in the UK that might be worth checking out given the current exchange rate advantage ...
 
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