Ah, this is where the internet failed me, when I first looked at this, I miss counted the poles as 15 and I considered 3 phase. I counted the wire off the poles at 16 turns per pole, I figured that somebody has worked out that to get the required voltageI wonder what would happen if you just used 12 of the poles and made it 3 phase?
Please let us know if it works after you get it back together, thanks.Thank you Storm,
I stripped the starter motor and found dirty and scratched commutator, cleaned, and resurfaced in the lathe.
One of the brush screws loose,
Both brushes worn on an angle, I'll buy new brushes.
And the brush end shaft shims, and "C" clip not fitted correctly.
Wait now for brushes to arrive then re fit and see what happens.
Regards
Graeme
Yes, bevel prices are astounding. I bought a new headlight switch (the tin box from Aprilia) for a very small amount, it came from a Lambretta shop and was something like 1/10 the price asked by a Ducati specialist.Time Warp,
True about Bevel twin stupid prices,
eg, 450 1974 Desmo disc brake single has the same rubber grommets as Darmah to mount the side covers.
Why are the Darmah grommets 1/3 more expensive than the 450 single grommets ? Same part number,,,,,,,
Graeme
I bet the more powerful one is good fun. I went to work on mine on Wednesday, before I set off, I checked the tire pressures there was 6 psi in the front and 20 in the back, strange how the bike felt ok as the speed came up, the handling was only heavy at low speed. Anyway that will teach me to check the pressures before a ride.I have three Ducati beveldrives including two SD's. (one + 80 rwhp, +9000 rpm, 220 kmh (stock being around 52 rwhp on the post 1980 big port and maybe 190 kmh flat out)
The only electrical failure I ever had was a R/R so lucky perhaps.
They are still (with uprated suspension) a very usable bike and will lope along all day any distance ( but 100 kms / 60 miles to get the engine to temperature)
The engine should turn over with no concern (the uprated starter sprag clutch (916 perhaps) is probably a good idea) due to the substantial starter ratio.
The starter intermediate chain must in good condition.
With careful detail to building they are very reliable in general even in modified form.
I still remember my first engine refresh in the mid 1980's, the factory manual said to shim the crankshaft to zero end float, I decided with angular contact bearings to go to zero then add 003" preload.
Many years later talking to a factory mechanic he thought that a good guess with it being around 0.1mm / 004".
Life was easier when you had no idea of what you were doing so anything went and my motto was 'what could possibly go wrong... who knows.
Beveldrives are very expensive to buy these days, even more so to rebuild due to the over inflated parts prices used as ransom.
Good news, always worth having a play.Hello Ralph,
Report on Darmah starter motor,
New brushes, turn the comutator in the lathe for a light skim, re thread the stator winding / brush screw mount. Clean and grease all the shims and bushes....
Re install,,, Runs like a champion now.
Lots of hours and very fiddly but made a big difference.
Now to get the front carb to work better than it does.
Engine goes like a dog shot in the arse from half throttle to full throttle, time will get it running right from off idle to 1/3rd throttle.
Regards
Graeme
Nice job, that Duragloss works well, that carb looks new.Is it an Italian bike thread now.
You might want to check the slides (stock PHF 32's) which changed over the production, the earlier Darmah's have slides no longer available new and might have been a leaner cutaway. Later might have been a 70/2.
I changed carburetors over the years, PHF 32's to Mallosi Dellorto PHM 40's in the later 1980's then FCR 41's in the later 1990's.
The original 32's mothballed in the mid/later 1980's.
Those original 32's from my 81 SD are now on my 1973 Moto Guzzi Eldorado.
Diluted DuraGloss 853 sprayed on and run under the tap the moment white foam started to appear.
Done a few times.
View attachment 83474
A set of manifolds for Dellorto VHB30's (larger OD spigot than 29's)
Sleeves machined to suit the PHF 32's spigot ID.
View attachment 83476 View attachment 83475
Dual gaskets taper machined to 2mm to 3mm to angle the carburetors outward slightly so they were vertical and missed the gearbox.
View attachment 83477
Threaded adapters machined to mate up to the stock airbox boot and look as stock as possible.
View attachment 83480 View attachment 83478 View attachment 83479
70 degree cable guides, custom cables (via Conwire in Sydney) and custom jumbo Acetyl cable splitter for low friction action.
View attachment 83481 View attachment 83482
I had hoped to get my Ducati's (and two TL1000S's) out of storage in 2022 but it does not look promising.
I bought this bike with a view to making a bit of money, I am a bit pissed it rides so well. I will probably sell it when it is sorted but I may try and find a cheap Monster. Or I could bring it to Spa next year.Yes, bevel prices are astounding. I bought a new headlight switch (the tin box from Aprilia) for a very small amount, it came from a Lambretta shop and was something like 1/10 the price asked by a Ducati specialist.
There's a bloke in Oz who rebuilds the headlight for the bevels - separates the glass lens, resilvers the reflector and reassembles it, costs around $1000 Aust. as far as I remember. A NOS light (remember this is just the glass) was around $2000.....
My original is sitting in a box now, there's a generic H4 unit on the bike
I bet the more powerful one is good fun. I went to work on mine on Wednesday, before I set off, I checked the tire pressures there was 6 psi in the front and 20 in the back, strange how the bike felt ok as the speed came up, the handling was only heavy at low speed. Anyway that will teach me to check the pressures before a ride.
With the correct tire pressure the bike is very nice, it is a good job I didn't have one before I got the Norton, I may never had bought one. The clutch slip is getting worse.