Best way to remove Metalastic swingarm bushings

Hortons Norton

Hortons Norton

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Hey guys I'm getting ready to remove the bushings in my Atlas swingarm. Just wanted to hear from those that have done it and see if you can give me the do's and don'ts, I have heard they are a pain in the ass to do?? Thanks in advance, Chuck.
 
They certainly can be SOAB to remove. I have used oxy/acet in the past to burn the rubber out which will only leave the outer part of the bush which is carefully split with a hacksaw and then used a drift or sharp chisel to get them out. The other option is a hydraulic bench press which will leave the paint finish intact at least. Good luck!
 
I took mine out exactly the same way: burn, cut and drive out. Putting the new ones was was pretty hard, even with a hydraulic press and I put the bushing in the freezer first. I don't want to replace those ever again.

Dave
 
I build and sell a total replacement kit consisting of a 3/4" high tensile spindle with a welded-on end plate (a la BSA) that bolts to the frame web, an opposite slip-on end plate that reinforces the opposite end mounting location as it bolts to the other frame web, and sintered bronze bushings and thrust washers with o-rings to retain the lube (similar to a Commando's lube setup). $150 + postage.

Best way to remove Metalastic swingarm bushings


(I have one kit sitting on the shelf)
 
Thanks Paul and Dave, Guess I'm in for some fun with this. Going to look at them a little more closely and see how worn they really are. Chuck.
 
They don't really wear, as the movement should be in the rubber, with the inner sleeves of the Metalastiks clamped between the frame plates and the centre tube.

Best way to remove Metalastic swingarm bushings


Some garage idiots fail to tighten up the spindle. Then the most noticeable damage is to the frame plates.
 
Triton Thrasher said:
They don't really wear, as the movement should be in the rubber, with the inner sleeves of the Metalastiks clamped between the frame plates and the centre tube.
Click to expand...

Agree! I had my swing arm off recently. After 85K miles and 50 plus years, I deemed them perfectly serviceable.

As we say in Texas .... if it ain't broke, don't fix it!

Slick
 
Yea guys they feel like they are still good, I'm going to leave them in place. Thanks for all your help, Chuck.
 
Many frame plates have been worn, but many more swingarms have been damaged or destroyed in attempts to remove frozen swingarm bolts (they're actually not spindles, per se) and stuck metalastic bushes.

I have yet to be convinced of the "benefits" of introducing any amount of other-than-true movement into a swingarm/rear wheel assembly (same goes for Commandos).

Rose joint top and front steadies, and several different forms of "haunch" (3rd point) steadies improve the handling noticeably on a Commando; featherbed frames benefit similarly from sintered bronze retrofits (needle bearing kits are said to be inappropriate for the application).
 
Your kit looks like a lot of good gear for $150.

But owners don't always realise how much easier life can be if they don't interfere with the rubber bushes.


To imply that they cause any sort of steering problem on roadgoing Featherbeds is to invite ridicule, but be my guest.
 
Triton Thrasher said:
To imply that they cause any sort of steering problem on roadgoing Featherbeds is to invite ridicule, but be my guest.
Click to expand...
I'm just saying I don't understand the argument for anything other than true swingarm movement.

I stated that featherbeds benefit 'similarly' from solid swingarm bushings, as Commandos do with restricted isolastics; although to a lesser degree. The Commando isolastics invite a much greater degree of rear wheel out-of-true movement being at a significant reach from the points of elasticity in the iso system.
 
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