Tricks to mounting carbs with hex nuts

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okwebb

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Nov 20, 2020
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My carbs are mounted with hex nuts. I’ve ground down and bent a hex wrench to work but it’s a pain. Any expert advice?
Thanks
 
Yep, it's a pain. Other than a shortened wrench not much else you can do.
 
Sorry, I must have misunderstood. I thought you were talking about the manifold to head mounting screws.
 
The original tool kit came with a cut down allen key just for that job, its the only took I still have from my tool kit, it is a pain as only short turns to get the middle ones undone.

Ashley
 
All you need is one allen to fit on the inboard side of the left carb to manifold. I made a t-handle ball end allen to just fit and it is a whole lot easier than taking off the manifolds. The stud needs to be removed. If you need the allen I can make one but it will be a week before I can get to it. $6 for the allen bolt and the wrench. Includes shipping if you live in the states.
 
Its not a hard job to take off the manifolds with a cut down key and once off the carbs nuts are even easier to get to.
 
Definitely remove the manifold from the head with the carb attached, then remove the manifold. Ball end or cut down allen key is definitely required.
 
I use a micro ratchet for the Allen head bolts mani to head. I can get to all and back them out about 1/3 of way before the ratchet and bit get "stuck" against the rear mani flange. Just work both bolts per mani loose together and pull carb/mani away from head, giving more clearance for ratchet to continue its sweet, sweet work.
 

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okwebb said:
My carbs are mounted with hex nuts. I’ve ground down and bent a hex wrench to work but it’s a pain. Any expert advice?
Thanks
Click to expand...

Just double nut and remove the two centre/center studs and replace them with part number 06.0333 which is the handle bar clamp cap screw.

CAP SCREW 5/16" UNF x 3/4" (7/32" HEX)

They are then easy to get in /out using the same Allen key for the manifold to head cap screws.
 
You only need to remove one of the inside socket headed fasteners holding the manifold to the head. Once you get it started with a cut down allen key you loosen the outside socket headed fastener, and, if you're lucky you can remove the inside fastener by hand; the other side is now a piece of cake. Make yourself feel lucky.

There are a number of service tasks that you know in advance will require carb/manifold removal. No denying that it a PITA, so know it, steel yourself to just getting it done; save your adrenalin for riding and your frustration for the tax man. Approaching a task knowing it will be difficult is much better than rediscovering it again and again...

Best.
 
Rubber mount your carbs , easy removal, no more vibrating carbs , better heat insulation ,mine has never ticked over so well, pretty sure it runs better, keeps the madass gantry
 

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I always remove the carbs alone. Removing the manifolds and then separating the carbs to work on the carbs goes against my inherent laziness...why do two things when I only need to do one thing? :)

As noted, a cut down and bent hex wrench works fine. Yeah, it becomes a 1/8th turn on one of the inners but we're talking maybe two minutes at most to remove it. I didn't have the original Norton tool so I heated the proper-sized hex wrench to red hot with a propane torch to remove the temper. Then, when it cooled, I bent it/cut the end with a hacksaw to an appropriate length. Then reheated the wrench to red hot and dropped it in oil to re-temper.
 
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