Why we call it "inspection"...

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I might consider removing all of the RTV from the mating points of the center bolt? I can't see how it can snug the two covers together with that on there. Just my thoughts.
 

cyclegeezer

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I might consider removing all of the RTV from the mating points of the center bolt? I can't see how it can snug the two covers together with that on there. Just my thoughts.
My usual bodge for that joint is an appropriately sized o-ring, which gets squished into the gap between the bolt and inner case, and sandwiched between the mating surfaces. Works for me.
 

Fast Eddie

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My usual bodge for that joint is an appropriately sized o-ring, which gets squished into the gap between the bolt and inner case, and sandwiched between the mating surfaces. Works for me.
With the addition of a small chamfer to the hole, that would seem a good fix to me.
 

Fast Eddie

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Concours, is this black stuff you’ve applied in the pic below silicone sealant?

If so, isn’t it going to break / tear when you adjust the gearbox?


289A3E27-230A-4650-87CB-D7B91755431B.jpeg
 

concours

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I might consider removing all of the RTV from the mating points of the center bolt? I can't see how it can snug the two covers together with that on there. Just my thoughts.
The uncured RTV simply squishes out as it’s tightened.
 

concours

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And people wonder why a dry primary is nice...
Some of us wonder why anyone finds a (nearly eternal ) bathed in oil enclosed chain, buttery smooth clutch & cool stator is so hard to handle.
My opinion of the dry belt drive system is that it CREATES more problems than it solves. But, hey, that would be hijacking/derailing...o_O
 
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Fast Eddie

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Indeed... cooling the stator, and perhaps even providing lubrication in cases of mild contact between rotor and stator, are two positives of oil that I have recently been contemplating...
 
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Indeed... cooling the stator, and perhaps even providing lubrication in cases of mild contact between rotor and stator, are two positives of oil that I have recently been contemplating...
If you have contact between the rotor and stator the oil won't help you. There should only be enough oil in the chain case to lightly lube the chain. Any oil on the rotor will be flung out.

You also shouldn't see oil coming out the mainshaft area, if you do it's either way too much oil or the seal is shot.
 

concours

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Just never seen anything like that mess before.
Lol, it looks unsightly as hell...
But, the good news is, it’s inside the case, where no one sees it.
Tough crowd..
OTOH, I do it on 3/4 million dollar machine tools, to seal up a poorly designed leaking oil/coolant devices, and everyone is happy...

Besides...
Not recommending anyone do the things I do...
Just sharing, for those posters who’ve bemoaned leaks... this has worked for me 32,000 miles, and that’s all I’m saying.
 
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concours

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8B8BB80B-D5C1-43DB-B0D9-2B64EA36D305.jpeg
Here it is, WAY OVER FILLED, to the delight of chain, clutch, hub bearing & stator.
 

concours

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78FC8432-902E-4C3E-B133-F8D1BAECB6B8.jpeg

3EA69CB8-BD1A-4674-9726-15E856D1C46F.jpeg
18685C9A-7BF1-44E7-8909-6928467E3277.jpeg

18AA5133-BCD2-4860-9AC2-9A7B56ABC0AC.jpeg
78FC8432-902E-4C3E-B133-F8D1BAECB6B8.jpeg
3EA69CB8-BD1A-4674-9726-15E856D1C46F.jpeg
18685C9A-7BF1-44E7-8909-6928467E3277.jpeg


Oil pump key was bitched up, as was the timing cover crank seal circlip groove. If only these old engines could speak...
 
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