Myster part ID in hand missing??

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Hobot

Hobot

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Everything that came off the primary, but the alternator stuff went into a sealed tin container with greased rim. Came time to put on the clutch circlip locator spacer, what came out the tin would not fit. What i thought was the locator spacer will not slip over the main shaft and remains a mystery of what it is.
Parts book does not reveal enough to ID by sight or feel. So really two mysteries,
what is this thing and what do I order to get clutch basket seated on circlip. Could not find any washers/shims in tin that would fit over main shaft either? Shaking head how nice it worked after going through it all prior yet now can't put it back on, sheeze.

Myster part ID in hand missing??
 
hobot said:
Everything that came off the primary, but the alternator stuff went into a sealed tin container with greased rim. Came time to put on the clutch circlip locator spacer, what came out the tin would not fit. What i thought was the locator spacer will not slip over the main shaft and remains a mystery of what it is.
Parts book does not reveal enough to ID by sight or feel. So really two mysteries,
what is this thing and what do I order to get clutch basket seated on circlip. Could not find any washers/shims in tin that would fit over main shaft either? Shaking head how nice it worked after going through it all prior yet now can't put it back on, sheeze.
Click to expand...

Do you have a belt drive? Looks like the spacer on the crankshaft.

rgm-belt-illustrated-install-guide-t6750.html

I make these nice guides for everyone but you don't even look at them. :roll:

:mrgreen:
 
hobot said:
Everything that came off the primary, but the alternator stuff went into a sealed tin container with greased rim. Came time to put on the clutch circlip locator spacer, what came out the tin would not fit. What i thought was the locator spacer will not slip over the main shaft and remains a mystery of what it is.
Parts book does not reveal enough to ID by sight or feel. So really two mysteries,
what is this thing and what do I order to get clutch basket seated on circlip. Could not find any washers/shims in tin that would fit over main shaft either? Shaking head how nice it worked after going through it all prior yet now can't put it back on, sheeze.

Myster part ID in hand missing??
Click to expand...

Rotor Spacer? # 060402
I took a couple of photos as I dissembled my primary internals. I believe these were behind my stator.

Myster part ID in hand missing??


This was the order of the clutch spacers.
Myster part ID in hand missing??
 
This post on Trixie, my New Orleans gal that don't get nothing fancier that factory spares, so no belt drive. Ms Peel is fancy as they get but her belt pully's slip on taper w/o spacer.

Almost responded w/ seeing the photo's below the quote/photo.
Ok your crank spacer looks deeper under cut than mine, but mine does slick nice on crank end, so likely I over looked that one.

The clutch shaft stack has familiar look, now i know what to look for or order.
I've a couple of the spacing washers I remember needing and have in hand, so where'd the thick locator spacer go? Dug through my bins but no luck yet. Should have two hand from 2 Combats, but can't find any, ugh. hobot
 
hobot said:
This post on Trixie, my New Orleans gal that don't get nothing fancier that factory spares, so no belt drive. Ms Peel is fancy as they get but her belt pully's slip on taper w/o spacer.

Almost responded w/ seeing the photo's below the quote/photo.
Ok your crank spacer looks deeper under cut than mine, but mine does slick nice on crank end, so likely I over looked that one.

The clutch shaft stack has familiar look, now i know what to look for or order.
I've a couple of the spacing washers I remember needing and have in hand, so where'd the thick locator spacer go? Dug through my bins but no luck yet. Should have two hand from 2 Combats, but can't find any, ugh. hobot
Click to expand...

I am the last one on this forum that should be giving advice so I'll let the experts respond. Are all the primary cases using the same spacer stack, or is every primary spaced with a different combination of shims?
 
Well basics is there's a thick locator/spacer/washer that butts on the wimpy circlip and then custom added shims/washers that hold clutch basket out enough it don't rub the inner case, with hope that gives good straight chain run too. Manual for 750's lists two shims, .048" and .038" as starting parts. About any washer that
fits over main shaft can work as fine tune spacers, but that locator needs to be a good fit on shaft OD. Trick is to tighten clutch nut enough not to come off yet not so much to bowl over the wimpy circlip, that one should have a few always on hand.
 
Yeah, that shouldered spacer that goes over the clutch locating circlip looks a lot smaller than the one you are showing. I would vote it's for rotor spacer too. Here's what you are looking for pic 89.

Myster part ID in hand missing??


OB says to torque that clutch nut to 40# and use blue locktite.

Dave
69S
 
hobot, I think its group 8 # 31 060402. Mine fit a little tight so I tapped with LFH and it went on. So Im with swooshdave on this one.
Phil
 
OK thanks for doing my home work for me. So my mystery spacer holds the stator off the crank sprocket, cool. Now just need to order the clutch locator spacer.

Swoosh I can't believe RGM sold that belt drive for use with an inner case, what with the proud round heads sticking up. The better ones had funnel heads counter sunk flush. Your belt tension is about right, cold should be able to almost twist to 90'. Once belt tension and gearbox adjusters all adjusted just right, there is no need to ever touch the gear box tension adjustors again, not to put belt or or off.
So no need to diddle the hidden adjuster once primary on. There is no real way to know if you got the adjusters properly aligned w/o turning the drive and diddling till belt stays on, not crawling off basket.
 
Make sure the groove for the alternator spacer faces out so you can put the key way in for the stator.


Tim_S
 
Make sure the groove for the alternator spacer faces out so you can put the key way in for the stator.
Click to expand...

Oh yeah Tim, your description flashed it all back at me from 1st time on Peel years ago. I had to break up the fused blacksmithed in key with that dang hood covering rear of key. Whew that was weird just now, am I losing it or just blanking out painful memories? Relieving sensation, I can see Trixie coming together now w/o drastic measures or major expenses. Leaves me light headed.
 
hobot said:
Swoosh I can't believe RGM sold that belt drive for use with an inner case, what with the proud round heads sticking up. The better ones had funnel heads counter sunk flush.
Click to expand...

I too was surprised they didn't use countersunk heads. But I didn't have to take off much from the primary case to make it work. It also could be accounted for with differences in primary cases.
 
I too was surprised they didn't use countersunk heads. But I didn't have to take off much from the primary case to make it work. It also could be accounted for with differences in primary cases.[/quote]

Just a bit off topic but speaking of differences in primary cases:
Are all the inside primary cases interchangeable? Mine has been welded up and this is the time to look for a replacement.
 
Who makes the better ones? I'm selling my .44 Super Redhawk and that should handily pay for the belt kit.

Dave
69S
 
DogT said:
Who makes the better ones? I'm selling my .44 Super Redhawk and that should handily pay for the belt kit.

Dave
69S
Click to expand...

I don't dislike the RGM kit. Very easy to install and seems to be a nice piece. It does use the stock clutch center.

The price, especially if you buy directly from RGM isn't bad.

Not to say there aren't options. Maybe start a new belt thread. We haven't had one in a while. :mrgreen:
 
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