Mk3 project

Not getting any spark from the plugs when I kick the bike over I checked both plugs. So I again tried rubbing the two wires from the pickup and I got great spark. so could it be the pickup even with good resistance?.. I also sprayed some starting fluid in both cylinders and tried to kick it and nothing so I feel its a spark issue

KevinS said:

Not getting any spark from the plugs when I kick the bike over I checked both plugs.

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OK thanks.

KevinS said:

So I again tried rubbing the two wires from the pickup and I got great spark.

so could it be the pickup even with good resistance?

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Edit:

The only other things I can suggest is to check the two Boyer rotor magnets haven't lost their magnetism and that the rotor is pulled down tight onto the end of the camshaft?

Kevin,

Check your wiring again. After reading through this it's not clear that you have it right.

Not sure what Boyer you have but here's a wiring diagram that might help:

https://www.oldbritts.com/boyer_install.html

dennisgb said:

Kevin,

Check your wiring again. After reading through this it's not clear that you have it right.

Not sure what Boyer you have but here's a wiring diagram that might help:

https://www.oldbritts.com/boyer_install.html

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I just checked the wiring all is good. I'm thinking of putting the points back on so i can hear it run. Does anyone know the sequence to this procedure. I have all of the parts to do so

KevinS said:

I'm thinking of putting the points back on so I can hear it run. Does anyone know the sequence to this procedure. I have all of the parts to do so

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Disconnect the Boyer box, remove the pickup plate and rotor, loosely fit the AAU, fit the points plate and connect the condensers, ballast resistor, coils and points according to the Mk3 wiring diagram and follow the Mk3 manual instructions on setting the ignition timing.

L.A.B. said:

KevinS said:

I'm thinking of putting the points back on so I can hear it run. Does anyone know the sequence to this procedure. I have all of the parts to do so

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Disconnect the Boyer box, remove the pickup plate and rotor, loosely fit the AAU, fit the points plate and connect the condensers, ballast resistor, coils and points according to the Mk3 wiring diagram and follow the Mk3 manual instructions on setting the ignition timing.

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Points, Ugh...
Seems like such a drastic step backwards. Keep moving forward. You'll figure it out.
Your coils and ballast resistor are now wired differently with the Boyer, so you'd have to re-wire it all back to stock.
The plugs should fire once when you hit the kill button with key on. It's a good test. Are you sure your battery is up to snuff? Boyer's don't like low voltages.

Have you gone through the helpful Boyer troubleshooting guide on Old Britts site?
https://www.oldbritts.com/boyer_testing.html

Yes I have over 12v at the battery. I will try the kill switch thing tomorrow but if they don't spark what next? Yes I followed the boyer trouble shooting checklist. I removed the pickup and checked for magnetism there was some but it was weak. How strong should the magnet really be? Still not sure if I'll go back to points I might just buy a new ignition.. Any suggestions on brand? I'm leaning toward tri spark or the one old britts sells due to low voltage and this bike being a mk3. Don't want to replace the sprag more than once. Also has anyone ever tried running heavier leads for the starter to get more amps. I havent used my e start yet I still need a sprag bearing any suggestions on the best make for the sprag? Like I said this is my first norton so I am trying to catch on quickly... Thanks guys for all your help so far its nice to have people to bounce problems off of

You'll likely start an argument on electronic ignition. Almost as bad as an oil thread.
I have a Power Arc which is sold at Old Britt's. It works fine. You can get a Pazon ignition from Lowbrow Customs for around $140. The Pazon is made by some of the guys from Boyer who made some improvements (works on lower voltages, better advance curves). It's a very similar setup as the Boyer.
http://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/pazon-ele ... ycles.html

I'm sure lots of people will suggest Tri-Spark which are more money.

I have no e-start experience so I'm no help.

KevinS said:

Yes I have over 12v at the battery. I will try the kill switch thing tomorrow but if they don't spark what next? Yes I followed the boyer trouble shooting checklist. I removed the pickup and checked for magnetism there was some but it was weak. How strong should the magnet really be? Still not sure if I'll go back to points I might just buy a new ignition.. Any suggestions on brand? I'm leaning toward tri spark or the one old britts sells due to low voltage and this bike being a mk3.

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The pickups are coils, not magnets. The magnets are attached to the rotor. The magnets should be able to support the weight of the rotor hanging from a steel wrench like in the boyer troubleshooting guide.
http://www.tioc.org/boyer/boyertestnewweb.htm

KevinS said:

Don't want to replace the sprag more than once.

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Could be worth waiting for the CNW Mk3 sprag upgrade kit then? mk3-sprag-repair-t24283.html#p319886

KevinS said:

Also has anyone ever tried running heavier leads for the starter to get more amps.

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Yes, heavier gauge leads are a good idea. 'dynodave' sells a kit if required, and I recommend you fit one of his clutch pushrod seals: http://atlanticgreen.com/store.htm

KevinS said:

I havent used my e start yet I still need a sprag bearing any suggestions on the best make for the sprag?

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Andover Norton part 064733 or, look for a Stieber DC 4127 3C or equivalent.
http://www.nortonmotors.de/ANIL/Norton% ... 12&Part=18
One thing that must be done to prevent a kickback from destroying the sprag is check/set the slip-torque of the overload backfire device: https://www.oldbritts.com/e_start_backfire.html