Don't know what all those sprocket numbers add up to, but the 830cc engine suggests some extra power and especially torque, so my experience may not translate. On my 750 5 speed racer, when I used a Triumph spool hub rear, I got two brake drums with integral sprockets, one with 46 teeth, one with 43. With a 20 tooth counter, and a 2 to 1 primary ratio, that gave 4.6 and 4.3 gearing, respectively. The 4.3 was right for Daytona, or maybe Willow, or maybe a few other fast places, Roebling say, and that was about all the gear it would pull, hi 120's mph at 7300 or so at Daytona. But that much gear made first fairly tall and slow off the line with lots of clutch slipping to get going, and also lengthened second perhaps too much and made the gap between second and third noticeable. For most tracks, I used the 4.6 gearing--that gave a shorter first for starts, a shorter but raceable second, and less noticeable gap to third, and let me use third in tighter corners, and was all around faster. The bike spends only a second or two or three at most tracks at peak revs in top, so the benefit of tall gearing is limited, but it sure went around the track quicker with the gearing shortened to 4.6--and I think the game is lap times, not top speed, most places. Don't know what sort of engine you have, but your optimal gearing may be different than 4.6 with all that displacement, you will have to try your gearing out to find an optimum. The trouble with this whole stock parts setup was, it was very heavy, and difficult and slow to change, and did not offer ready options. Simply put, it was a whole bunch of cast iron on a race bike.
Not that you care about this part, but then I got rid of all those heavy and limiting stock parts, put Newby belt drive and a Barnes dirt track quick change hub on the rear, with narrower 520 aluminum sprockets and lighter 520 chain, and with the different Newby primary ratio, I was able to use smaller, lighter sprockets both ends--18-38 for 4.3 gearing if I remember correctly-- and as a bonus I could shorten the chain several links, and with these changes I lost more than 10 pounds of weight in the rotating drive train and got far more gearing adjustability, changeable easily and quickly in the pits. I still didn't vary greatly from 4.3 to 4.6 gearing, but moved around in between more. For what it is worth.