Stripped timing cover

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Diablouph

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The bottom bolt hole for the rocker oil banjo fitting on the timing cover is stripped. The one that is right below the Pressure Relief Valve. The bolt is # 37 in Group 4, a 5/16th 22. I have a new bolt, but the threads in the cover are toast.

I will, most likely have a pro fix it rather than attempting it myself. First, though, I would like to get some feedback on the options available.

Plug and tap?
Drill out and use bigger bolt?
Something else, maybe more exotic?

I sure don’t want to spend more money than necessary, however, It must be done right. I have come to the conclusion, after several years reading this forum, that oil pressure is fairly important.
 
since it's stripped, fit a helicoil and use a SAE bolt. A 10mm metric might also work.
 
The # 37 bolt has two holes in it. You can't substitute unless they make a copy in a larger size.
 
Diablouph said:
Plug and tap?
Drill out and use bigger bolt?
Something else, maybe more exotic?
Click to expand...

I used the plug and tap for my cover and it seems to be OK. Using a bigger bolt means the standard oil lines can't be used, if that is not a problem, then it's an acceptable solution. The third one is also a possibility, using the aluminum/bronze welding rods, you could fill it in with that stuff and drill and tap new threads or as they show in the many videos I have seen, just put a bolt in the hole, fill it in and unscrew the bolt out leaving newly formed threads. The fourth possibility is to buy a used cover to replace your broken one.

Jean
 
I"ve had a number of Al items welded up over the decades, marine wet manifolds, fork legs, outboard lower units and UGH, Norton cases and heads. Main concern is the distortion factor to correct later. But its common procedure weld and retap, just more expensive tedious than my down/dirty get back on the road DIY epoxy or Timesert.
 
Thanks all. I decided to have Rabers weld and tap. A little more expensive but done and backed by experts.

While I was there, they talked about conversion to the Mark III "anti-sumping" feature. We just can’t get away from wet sumping can we?
 
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