Chain run photo contest please.

Seek photo of the chain run along top of swing arm on its way to the front sprocket. The contest - is if I've built my self into another fouling corner to bodge around. No Cdo intact enough here to check on my own. Issue is an oil check valve above and an oil filter elbow below. Ugh - tension in gut says - I must armor and cover for chain flap anyway... I need an idea of just how close the whip is for how robust the restraining armaments must be. After I mock up gearbox to fit sprocket and chain i'll take my own photo. So if bored and camera handy.

On this note open to insights on swing arm pads. I see a big variety in Harley catalogs, which I shop for Peel as much as BI vendors and plumbing supply.
Swing arm is RGM boxed alloy, also 100 PSI air tank now, so screwing fasteners into its 3/16" thickness is a concern. Epoxy threaded top hats in or clamp on?
We've seen how even a touch up weld to the factory braced swing arm can distort to foul axle, so don't intend to hot weld its trueness, that fit just right, right off the bat.

Also d/t the inch or so extra shock travel, chain slack may be an issue so may need a chain tensioner bottom mounted on swing arm. I see plenty of versions in catalogs and also widely used in hi powered cycles. Wonder if it'd be noticed as less drive train slack or flapping throb? That does tug on gearbox/cradle and isolastics, plus if clutch wobbles, all the way to primary chain slap on crank end, ugh.

40's F now so retrieving tools and metal stock to diddle on Peel after dark.
Tempted to put Trixie's head on while out in shed, hm what's my mood?

Why not run solid lined under the chain, covered by a chain slider. You can attach the slider to the swingarm using bonded fasteners. I'll look up where to find them. we used them on the aircraft. its a stud with a 1.5" disk for a head to epoxy on. Using a structural epoxy.

Hm, mostly understand your component lingo. Hm I've Aircraft Spruce catalog that has hard point doddads for panel attachments. Hm just restrain chain enclosure, by a flat-ish slider on swing arm and robust funnel roof with struts on swing arm box section. Some the tensioners are two shafts with springs and a rubbing cap slider, like two pogo sticks. No room for a roller on top of chain run, only steel plate. Encouraging, I may of gotten away with another by guess & by golly fitment. Please point me to your suggestions, I'm sure I've plenty other needs of creating robust neat attachments.

Here's a type I've not seen before but might be adapted


Hm, more ways I'd not seen before.

http://www.google.com/products/catalog? ... HkQ8wIwBg#

These rivited to an aluminum disk about 1.5" round. then bonded to whatever. You can then use a cable tie. I can't find the stud ones yet. i'll keep lookong.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#perforated-base-studs/=b0akgv

try these

Thanks, I can see for the loom cradles. I don't think I can use the stud mounts as likely need to slide a mount over the box section then run in fasteners. At loads will be shearing so won't be bad to get some robust enough. Will still have to wait on mock up to make sure the chain doesn't give too much of a pry angle on the retainer/slider.

My meager progress today was finalize Combat head to mount, drill a cooling hole in head fin V, retrieve its snapped off frozen bit then finish with a bit bigger one and clear up the air passage casting and mud collected deep in. Also made 2 SS brackets to mount stuff on top yoke. Step by step slowly we...

Ok now get back to your own far out project : )

I've been plucking away at it. I went in the garage and wrestled the huge cardboard box full of exhaust and fairing parts off of the top shelf. I figured out my oil cooler mounting, on the chain side of the swingarm, parallel with forward motion. I'll build a scoop to funnel airflow. So oil in the swingarm and oil cooler on the swingaarm. I need to find a ss exhaust flex jount for my exhaust, to dampen out some of the vibes. I need to get some time of my own in the shop and start hammering out these parts. I have to powdercoat my barrel so I can ship it out to it's new owner. I tried on thursday, but dropped it and broke 4 fins. Got it repaired, i'm getting good at cast iron, tried to powdercoat it, and the dam gun died. I ordered a new one from eastwood, but it wont arive till mid week. I did get my HID headlight working, almost blinded myself.

but dropped it and broke 4 fins.

Click to expand...

My month snapped open at this boo boo. But its a lot less and issue to you than me who must have shops like you handle it. Just know its a common event and part of Cdo karma. My very first barrel all spiffed up and about to put on case, rested in on carpet next to bike to turn to something and turned back to bump it over to hear the clunk-clink and lost thumb size fin. My first head job was lost in proecessing over a year to return with a major hunk of bottom fin gone. Still good to hear about your competence in metal craft.

Definitely should put a oil temp meter on. With you extra capacity and surface area may have hard time getting to temp unless running illegal hard. Don't need to leave it on as once you get used to its readings vs usage pattern/range. I fear my OIF may need spine insulated to get over 160. Only about 6 % of engine cooling comes from oil ordinarily. Do ya expect enough head that wet sump is expected w/o a check valve? In yours like mine it may back flow the other way into sump.

Doing the little Norton things put me into dark before i took un-tagged PU up/dn 1/2 mile driveway to pack down almost a foot of snow to be able to get car out after 7 day no appointments. Came across a couple stuck in the slope and driveway exit so chained em and hauled up and out no sweat. Us hillbillies live for that so all in all good day.