@Café au Lait , I'll give a summary of the changes I have made - let me know of you're interested in more info on any of them.
Here's what it was in March 2020 - as sent by Matt (all photos are thumbnails - click on them to make them larger)
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* Fitted Niton R3 rear shocks - MUCH more comfortable - had to make spacers to lift springs to clear chain guard. The standard (Girling, I think) shocks were already leaning quite heavily on the chain guard - now there's about 4mm clearance. Thanks to
@kommando for recommending them.
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* Replaced rubber carb mounts to shift them forward - tops of carbs (FCR35s) were rubbing on the frame.
* Disabled the pumper (just made a shorter actuation rod). No drop in performance at all. it also means wankers can't wash your bores be twisting the throttle when parked. Also means you can't "water-pistol" your eye - as one "nameless" member here has!
* Fitted Ohlins steering damper - some are dead against them. For me it's just an insurance policy.
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* Made "halfway rearsets" - the Interstate tank is 4" longer than the Roadster so, for me, the footpegs need to be that far aft.
* Changed the footage hanger mounts from button head screws (don't like screwing in & out of z-plates and the LH one has to come off each time you check belt tension or clean the clutch). Changed to ARP studs & 12 point nuts.
* Re-jetted the carbs - was running a bit too rich. Thanks to
@KiwiShane for his sharing setting based on his experiments, Running very nice now.
* Did a "de-bling" program. I ordered it with too much polished metal. both rear wheel centres are now satin black. Did the same with the headlight bucket and speedo/tacho buckets (got new cnc machined ones from Matt - they sealed at the bottom - very nice) and instrument panel. Still a few items to go here.
* Installed Mk3 upper head steady springs - now adjusted so the front iso stud can be pushed back & forth by hand when loosened.
* Fitted louder, dual horns above the z-plates - where you can get at them.
* Installed Kisan Signal Minder (self cancelling indicators that pause countdown while the brake in "on") and then Kisan Tailblazer (initially flashes the brake light slowing to solid "on")
* Installed 2oz (57g) of Counteract beads in each inner tube. No need for balance weight and the wheels are always in balance. Works really well.
* Had wet-sumping problems so installed timing cover and oil pump with AMR mods. Very good but then found the main culprit was pitting in the gasket face of the crankcase. All good now.
* Put 1.3kg of lead shot into the handlebars with silicone plugs to allow bar-end mirrors. Settled the, already mild, buzz even further.
* Installed the red tank & side covers I bought from
@Dellis in the UK (thanks Dave) - perfect timing as the front bosses on the green tank started leaking. Still looking for someone to do the repair without destroying the great paint job.
I think that's about it - here's how it is now:
Cheers
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