Just bought cNw headsteady, quick question...

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I'm currently waiting on Parcelfarce to deliver a cNW headsteady from Holland for my 72 Combat, and was thinking about the installation. Where are people attaching the +ve lead to the engine with this particular headsteady, The three steady to head bolts are recessed and so are of no use. I was thinking of using one of the two holes used to mount the spring , but wondered if anyone else had a better idea. Ideally I would rather not have to run an extension wire if I don't have to.
Thanks
Tom
 
Tom,
I just used one of the holes that were for the spring mount for running the ground.You will be pleased with the mount as it is a nice piece. I have ran it with the spring but found no difference with or without.You could also drill and tap for a #10 screw which I did on my DaveTaylor style which also worked.
Mike
 
Just bought cNw headsteady, quick question...
As mylar did it.

or run a jumper from the front hole on the headsteady base to the + post on the coil (couldn't find my pic)
 
anyone happen to know what thread is used for the two spring mount holes? (Just want to make sure I have an appropriate bolt ready when it turns up)
 
anyone happen to know what thread is used for the two spring mount holes? (Just want to make sure I have an appropriate bolt ready when it turns up)
Off topic I know but I notice that the power supply to the starter is exposed,big shinny nut. I dropped a spanner on mine the other day and sparks flew, very glad that I hadnt just tickled the carbs . I put a rubber floor protector for a stool over mine to keep my heart rate down in future. IAN
 
anyone happen to know what thread is used for the two spring mount holes? (Just want to make sure I have an appropriate bolt ready when it turns up)
The original ones on a MK 3 (where the spring first appeared) were 1/4”-28 UNF. I think if you had 1/4” UNF and UNC fasteners on hand, you would be covered.
 
Off topic I know but I notice that the power supply to the starter is exposed,big shinny nut. I dropped a spanner on mine the other day and sparks flew, very glad that I hadnt just tickled the carbs . I put a rubber floor protector for a stool over mine to keep my heart rate down in future. IAN
Ian,
If yours is a CNW Estart,get in touch with Matt as he has the proper rubber boot for that.
Mike
 
That is @maylar I think. Matt pinged me on that as well saying that he has them. Or if in a far flung locale, Harley Davidson # 70578-89.
 
My suggestion is to eliminate the wire that goes to the top of the head. There is a lot of motion there and it tends to break the wire eventually. Just tape it back to the harness and replace it with a ~12 gage wire from the ground stud in the battery box to one of the oil filter mounting bolts at the rear of the cradle.
Then it is hidden and lasts a very long time since there is little movement. Jim

PS, that is why I did not make an extra hole in the headsteady for a ground wire, but many have used the spring mounting hole for a ground.
 
anyone happen to know what thread is used for the two spring mount holes? (Just want to make sure I have an appropriate bolt ready when it turns up)
Does this unit have accommodation for the MK3 spring and tensioner?

Thanks,

M./
 
Jim,
What are your thoughts on using the MarkIII spring?
Thanks,
Mike

My experience is the spring helps to keep the front iso rubber from sacking out as fast. Other than that I didn't see much difference.
 
My experience is the spring helps to keep the front iso rubber from sacking out as fast. Other than that I didn't see much difference.
Thank you Jim.Appreciate the reply
Mike
 
The spring tensioner would allow for centering the isolastic dampers in the barrels so that there would be equal tension and they would actually fully damp in both directions. As it is, the engine is somewhat sitting down on the dampers and so there is less damping in the down direction as the dampers are already carrying the full weight of the engine. Less of an issue on my 750 than an 850 but still an issue to be dealt with if possible.

When I installed the original SS racing head steady 35+ years ago I did not realize that the problem with the installation was that the engine weight was causing a large vertical misalignment and it was a bear to get it finally installed. After my planned weekend session to change out the primary inner case to a new unit blossomed into an 18-month escapade I was keen (in a hurry) to get the bike back on the road.

(Pro-Tip - never start to disassemble your bike with a 6-pack within reach, the list of things you "otta deal with that while I'm at it" grows exponentially)

I'm now revisiting the issue since I have some final-final tweaks to do to the bike and will probably add the spring tensioner but might have to jump to the new unit if I can't sort out an easy add-on for the tensioner mounting.

Thanks,

M./
 
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