1969 T120 issues

Joined
Aug 30, 2011
Messages
419
Country flag
Adjusting the tappers on my 1969 T120 for the first time today......bit of a PIA getting the inlets “to a gnats whisker”. Decided to buy the Lazer tappet adjuster tool as might make the process of tightening down AND retaining adjustment a bit more consistent.

Any tips on adjusting the TLS front brake? It’s pre conical hub, but currently not very effective.

Thanks all.

Charles
 
Check to ensure your drum is clean and not glazed, same with the brake shoes.

Once that is all good, adjust them to the point that they JUST start to touch when you spin the wheel (on the centerstand).

As for the valve adjustment, I use the "popsicle sticks"...
1969 T120 issues
 
Thanks grandpaul

What size is the brake plate securing nut?

Looks like I will need to find either a suitable ring spanner or a box spanner
 
It's a big sucker. I have a giant crescent wrench that I use to remove them. So for me, the size is "adjustable". hee hee
 
It’s easier and probably safer to set the inlet valve clearances to 4 thou.
1/8th of a turn on the adjuster, from zero clearance is near enough.

American importers sent out a service note advising 4 thou inlets, 6 thou exhausts.
 
I measure that nut as being 1 1/2” across the flats and my Crescent wrench doesn’t have enough room to get a proper grip......
 
There is a special long reach socket for that nut that clears the spindle, hammer and punch are the bodgers alternative.
 
Can anyone confirm size of the nut, it looks to me to be 1 1/8” across the flats, seem to be various deep sockets available from the usual sources
 
I bought a large dual box-end spanner at an auto parts place (Pep Boys), they are in the section of trailer hitches, etc.
 
In the end I found a suitable box spanner made by Melco......

Am currently engaged in mission creep.

Head race bearings are toast so forks are off the bike, still got to find a way to remove rusted stanctions
from the bottom yoke, I’ve tried using a screwdriver to prise apart the yoke but no joy yet, heat might help.

The none working parts of the stanctions are rusted, I can’t see what these means in terms of the working areas, but I can see that I might be heading for a fork rebuild.

Problem is the bike is a time warp bike, hasn’t been restored, but has been very well kept so I should do my best at keeping it looking the same.
1969 T120 issues
 
After loosening off the pinch bolts, I tap a stubby screwdriver in the slot in the yoke, then pop the stanchions with a rubber mallet or a hammer buffered with a section of 2x4 pine.
 
Adjusting the tappers on my 1969 T120 for the first time today......bit of a PIA getting the inlets “to a gnats whisker”. Decided to buy the Lazer tappet adjuster tool as might make the process of tightening down AND retaining adjustment a bit more consistent.

Any tips on adjusting the TLS front brake? It’s pre conical hub, but currently not very effective.

Thanks all.

Charles

You need to adjust the brake arm connecting rod so both shoes contact at the same time. To do this put a 9/16" spanner on each lever nut and rotate clockwise to push the shoes up against the drum then adjust the link so that the pin on either end aligns with the hole in the brake arm aligns with the hole in the rod.

My ‘69 TR6 with this brake was good enough to lock the front wheel! I have a ‘69 Bonnie and although quite a good stopper it isn’t as good as the one on my TR6.

Dave
 
The TLS front brake on my '70 TR6R is very effective, much better than my Norton Commando with disk brake and sleeved
master cylinder. Yes, rotate the lever nuts until the shoes are each contacting the drum and then lengthen or shorten the
rod link accordingly to match the levers. If this doesn't work for you take it apart and see if shoes need replacement or
hub skimmed.

http://www.vintagebrake.com
 
You need to adjust the brake arm connecting rod so both shoes contact at the same time. To do this put a 9/16" spanner on each lever nut and rotate clockwise to push the shoes up against the drum then adjust the link so that the pin on either end aligns with the hole in the brake arm aligns with the hole in the rod.

My ‘69 TR6 with this brake was good enough to lock the front wheel! I have a ‘69 Bonnie and although quite a good stopper it isn’t as good as the one on my TR6.

Dave
They do take a bit of bedding in which is worth considering if the shoes are new.

Dave
 
Making progress, bought some OEM shoes at VMCC, so shoes now fitted, awaiting wheel bearings, mission creep has set in so fork stantions, bushes, seals and head races....all seems to be going together OK

Thanks for your help

Charles
 
Warning: keep that mission creep in check or you’ll be into a ground up resto before you know it.

Don’t ask me how I know....
 
Warning: keep that mission creep in check or you’ll be into a ground up resto before you know it.

Don’t ask me how I know....


It’s an original bike and there are not many left in good running condition......so a bit of paint touch up with hammerite!
 
Back
Top