Valve Cover Finish Quality

Don't know if the new Triumph covers have an acrylic coating to protect them from corrosion.
If they do, then aluminum polish will do nothing to brighten the finish.
You would have to strip off the acrylic coat to get down to base metal.
The older Triumph Bonnies (before 2016 water cooled models) had acrylic on the engine covers.
Was popular to strip the covers and buff'em up.
 
Mine was replaced also with the one you have. The banjoless type. Honestly, I went and had a better look. Mine looks just like it, and on the bike, you don't really notice it. It looks like it belongs. Most of it is covered. Hope this helps.
You are correct, but I guess with my bike being down and awaiting parts, I am in sort of the same position as those of you who live in the cold winter climates. I look at things to do when I can't ride. 120 grit, then 220 grit, then coarse steel wool, then fine steel wool and then a buffing attachment on the Dremel with jewelers rouge. I am going to have the finest looking Valve Cover that no one can see!
 
Yes it is very soft and very easily marked/scratched. That's the 961 I talking about.
 
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Hi,

The black marks are polish, and of course we cannot polish inside the recesses. The sides of the cover (which are visible once installed) are fine. Most of the pictures you have posted cannot be seen once installed.

The rough finish in the recesses is due to the part manufacturing method, we are small volume. For a super smooth finish you need a different and more volume based manufacturing technique.

If we sent you another part it will likely be very similar. If you are not happy I will of course sort a refund and collection of the part.

Thanks

Simon
 
I actually like the cover. Looks like something from the movie The Rocketeer. lol Retro it is. Go ahead and polish it. Make sure you show us pics before installation. Thanks. Oh....and I do believe the Triumph uses a clear coat on their cases. Don't bother with an abrasive.
 
To get down into the crevices and polish is not difficult to do yourself.
If you own a hand power drill just buy a few felt bobs and some white buffing clay for aluminum.
The bobs come in various shapes to fit the job at hand.
I buff out many of my own aluminum covers this way, and it's easy.

Large jobs like restoring corroded engine covers, you need professional buffing machines.
The rocker cover needs only a little work so you don't need to "cut" a great deal of metal.
Hand drill will work just fine.

Valve Cover Finish Quality
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Hi,

The black marks are polish, and of course we cannot polish inside the recesses. The sides of the cover (which are visible once installed) are fine. Most of the pictures you have posted cannot be seen once installed.

The rough finish in the recesses is due to the part manufacturing method, we are small volume. For a super smooth finish you need a different and more volume based manufacturing technique.

If we sent you another part it will likely be very similar. If you are not happy I will of course sort a refund and collection of the part.

Thanks

Simon
Thank you Simon for taking the time to respond. The design of the cover is beautiful and where it was polished is just fine. Since I am waiting for AF1 to place an order for replacement parts for my crashed SE, I have some time on my hands. I will use the time to have some fun with a little polishing work. No problems on my end.
 
Crashed SE?? Didn't you just get that bike? I'm really sorry to hear that. Unfortunately, I went down too. Actually, I bailed. Some chooch in a beemer forgot his left turn so he cut right in front of me and stopped. I did 2 endos and decided to jump off before impact. Broke my tibia. The bike....minimal scuffs and a bent handlebar. Built like a truck. Glad you are ok. Oh....and the chooch?? He moved up right before the bike would have hit. Should have stayed on.
 
Crashed SE?? Didn't you just get that bike? I'm really sorry to hear that. Unfortunately, I went down too. Actually, I bailed. Some chooch in a beemer forgot his left turn so he cut right in front of me and stopped. I did 2 endos and decided to jump off before impact. Broke my tibia. The bike....minimal scuffs and a bent handlebar. Built like a truck. Glad you are ok. Oh....and the chooch?? He moved up right before the bike would have hit. Should have stayed on.
Check out #17 on the previous page. You're right about the toughness of these bikes. It slid about 20 ft. and "only" sustained damage to replaceable right side parts. Unfortunately, or maybe fortunately, the SBN right side muffler was damaged and, as they are no longer available, the insurance is going to pay for a new set of Norton Short Slip-ons.
 
Check out #17 on the previous page. You're right about the toughness of these bikes. It slid about 20 ft. and "only" sustained damage to replaceable right side parts. Unfortunately, or maybe fortunately, the SBN right side muffler was damaged and, as they are no longer available, the insurance is going to pay for a new set of Norton Short Slip-ons.

I got an Inch and a half diameter rash on my SBN. Bought a set of used from a form member that sold his bike at a discount. He has a full set of stainless shorties for cheap if you want. Scratched a Rizoma mirror, a bar end, primary cover, bent handlebars and front left signal. Also bounced and slid over 30 feet. Tankity Tankity Tank. Oh, and got a 1/4 inch dimple on the tank. Got all new parts. Put most on myself.
 
the SBN right side muffler was damaged and, as they are no longer available, the insurance is going to pay for a new set of Norton Short Slip-ons.

Well that’s a bonus in my book! These bike are clearly sensitive to EFI maps etc, so it’s surely sensible to use factory supplied pipes with factory supplied maps?

I also wonder if some people’s mapping issues are due to keeping the cat? My bike came with the slip ons + de cat + map as a package. Maybe we should either run as standard, or with the full package? The cat is very restrictive, if the map thinks it has an open system, but it is ‘blocked’ by the cat, surely this could lead to mapping confusion / imperfections?

Anyways, I think fitting factory slip ons is a step forward over SBN IMHO, but I would also fit the de cat link (not expensive) and ensure I got the correct factory map for the chosen slip ons.

And, of course, the shortie slip ons are the ONLY ones to have !
 
Well that’s a bonus in my book! These bike are clearly sensitive to EFI maps etc, so it’s surely sensible to use factory supplied pipes with factory supplied maps?

I also wonder if some people’s mapping issues are due to keeping the cat? My bike came with the slip ons + de cat + map as a package. Maybe we should either run as standard, or with the full package? The cat is very restrictive, if the map thinks it has an open system, but it is ‘blocked’ by the cat, surely this could lead to mapping confusion / imperfections?

Anyways, I think fitting factory slip ons is a step forward over SBN IMHO, but I would also fit the de cat link (not expensive) and ensure I got the correct factory map for the chosen slip ons.

And, of course, the shortie slip ons are the ONLY ones to have !
I had Motad shorties and new generation SBN as well as Motad open long pipes with and without cat, all run with the same map and did never notice any difference when riding...
 
Ok, I guess that rules that theory out then!

Good to know we have the flexibility though.
 
C'mon. You've had enough time. Did you polish that cover out yet? Its pouring out here on Long Island and I need things to look at.:) Rain rain go away.....
 
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C'mon. You've had enough time. Did you polish that cover out yet? Its pouring out here on Long Island and I need things to look at.:) Rain rain go away.....
Well....it's like this. Someone put the pressure on and asked for photos. If it was just going right back on the bike, it would be good enough as is after several hours of work. Can't really see it after installation, right? The parts for my SE haven't even been ordered yet so I still have weeks to go before everything goes back together. Of course there is always Photoshop if you want to see it sooner.....
 
I got an Inch and a half diameter rash on my SBN. Bought a set of used from a form member that sold his bike at a discount. He has a full set of stainless shorties for cheap if you want. Scratched a Rizoma mirror, a bar end, primary cover, bent handlebars and front left signal. Also bounced and slid over 30 feet. Tankity Tankity Tank. Oh, and got a 1/4 inch dimple on the tank. Got all new parts. Put most on myself.

For anyone interested I’ve got a set of the Fraser open long pipes I don’t need. NZ$1500 - that’s 780 GBP or US$1000. Plus shipping.
Cheers
Paul
 
DBono that used to participate sold his ride and kept the 2 aftermarket exhausts he had. I bought the SBN. He had Stainles Motad system from front to back for a grand. Not sure if he still does.
 
Well....it's like this. Someone put the pressure on and asked for photos. If it was just going right back on the bike, it would be good enough as is after several hours of work. Can't really see it after installation, right? The parts for my SE haven't even been ordered yet so I still have weeks to go before everything goes back together. Of course there is always Photoshop if you want to see it sooner.....
So you're going to try to get every last little pock mark out of it?? Could always have it chromed if your going to get that nuts about it. lol
 
I'm afraid this is as good as it gets.....any more work on it and I would be branded as being a little bit nutty.....and that would be just from the wife for starters.

Valve Cover Finish Quality
Valve Cover Finish Quality
Valve Cover Finish Quality
Valve Cover Finish Quality
 
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