Zener/Rectifier replacement

Hi Fellow Norton lovers.

Having recently returned my 750 Combat to the road after a 20 year rebuild (don't ask) I am upgrading some of the electrics to 21st century technology.

I have purchased from Andover Norton their Zener/Rectifier replacement and in the instructions it says to fit in airflow!! Has anyone out there in Norton land fitted one of these and where did you fit it.

I await your replies with interest.

Yours John

I'm not sure what type Andover are selling, but I managed to fit my Podtronics unit between the coils onto coil mounting bracket 06.2231.

A friend of mine found some suitable rubber bobbins and mounted his Podtronics on them also between the coils and onto the coil bracket, but I have made a less elegant solution, and used hard foam and cable ties. It is completely out of sight, unless you are looking up from about 2' from the ground.

On my triumph I just made a plate out of thin metal and put it under the seat attached where the original rectifier was. I have never had a problem with it. Some people put them under the battery tray or on the rear fender. On a motorcycle your gonna get air flow just about anywhere you put it.

Does using a Podtronic or Manortec DVR2 take away the ability to start from a dead battery ( using the Capacitor ) ?.

I have a DVR2 on my BSA, am very very happy with it ( 12 volt pos earth ).

If you have an electronic ignition I don't know that you could start the bike from a dead battery or capacitor anyway? I removed my cap years ago since I generally keep my batteries charged with a battery tender

Hi Guys

Thanks for that. For your info it is a Podtronics unit

Reggie, unfortunatly I have used that space for the Pazon control box.

Britbike. Good call as the original rectifier is "aircooled" so should the orginal mounting.

Josh. According to instructions it only replaces the Zener and Rectifier, Cap is still in the system.

Thanks

Yours John

There are very few places on a Norton where you don't get airflow, unless you are stuck in traffic. I haven't yet seen an Andover integrated rectifier/regulator unit, but I'd bet that it was made in China along side the Sparx and Podtronics products, not a bad thing. I wouldn't bolt one to the engine, but these units should be designed to handle 130+% of the anticipated heat for the application.

The battery box area would be my choice, making a small bracket and hanging it on the rear gusset is where I mounted the Sparx unit on my Mk III, or if you don't have a horn in the prison under the battery box this would also be a decent choice for a part that doen't need any regular attention.

RS

RoadScholar said:

I haven't yet seen an Andover integrated rectifier/regulator unit, but I'd bet that it was made in China along side the Sparx and Podtronics products, not a bad thing.

Click to expand...

http://www.andover-norton.co.uk/Accessories.htm



Three-phase

I wondered if the cap would allow a start with a boyer. How much of a charge does the capacitor hold and put out and how many shots do you get if the bike doesn't start the first time? I am not familiar with the capacitor for starting. I guess I never really understood it on a commando. Aren't they generally used for a total loss sysem?

From personal experience I do not think active cooling is critical on the Podtronics box. My son runs one on his Commando which he fitted behind the cylinder barrel at the front of the battery carrier (he runs the bike on rubber-mounted open Amal carbs, hence no air Filter box). We have been through the Alps in the hottest period this year, and everything is fine with his electrics. In the position where it is now it is not in a constant airflow. I admit it is not boxed in.
Furthermore, in the "3 cylinder Commando" (balance shaft 1973 prototype) that I rode this summer I have a Podtronic box in the battery compartment behind the air filter and the side cover. No airflow- and that works fine, too.

It will start with the Boyer analog and 2MC but you do need to disconnect the flat battery (as described in owners manual) and give it a very healthy kick. If you give it a wimpy kick it will let you know it! As Ludwig said the cap charges up with each kick but discharges between kicks.

thanks for the explanation.

batrider said:

It will start with the Boyer analog and 2MC but you do need to disconnect the flat battery (as described in owners manual) and give it a very healthy kick. If you give it a wimpy kick it will let you know it! As Ludwig said the cap charges up with each kick but discharges between kicks.

Click to expand...

I used to wonder: "Gee, if the capacitor will let the bike will run with the main fuse removed, what's to stop it from continuing to run with the main fuse blown, frying the wiring harness." I found out the hard way a couple months ago that the answer is "nothing." I'd recommend disconnecting the capacitor until you actually need it or fusing it. As the owner's manual recommends, you should disconnect the battery to start the bike from the capacitor anyway, so it's not much more trouble to connect the capacitor while you're disconnecting the battery. My experiences with the stock Lucas rectifier and regulator have been good. My rectifier died a few years ago and I replaced it with a cheapo Radio Shack unit that cost a couple bucks. I think if I'd been more careful tightening the mounting bolt on the rectifier, it still might be working. I'm still using the original zenir diode regulator, it's got more than 100,000 miles on it.

-Eric

Eric, Cool. I used to run my 69 without a battery for years, back in the 70's. The fuse is not even in the circuit with the capacitor. However when I tried lately, the alternator must not be up to snuff, because when I hooked up a battery, it started right up. Yes, the capacitor is a good idea, but with a battery it works better, at least for me now. So far, I'm running with the original Lucas rectifier, zener diode and the stock 69 alternator. That may change.

Dave
69S

Eric -

Thanks for that post. You are right. When the battery is disconnected the fuse just hangs there doing nothing. Great idea to disconnect the blue cap when not in use. You could have a cool hidden EMG START toggle switch under there -- labeled of course -- which selects either the battery or the blue cap!

My 2MC is still the original and I was going to "rebuild" it this winter by cutting it open at the base and putting a new cap inside and then replacing the can cover with a bit of JB Weld. (Sorry, damn purist... but I do this all the time when restoring old boatanchor antique radios and stereos. I seem to enjoy it.)

A lot of guys just throw them away. Reminds me a little of early TV maker Earl "Madman" Muntz who supposedly cost-reduced his TVs by clipping out random parts. If the TV still worked the part was deleted from the parts list. (This became known as muntzing.)

Russ