Wobbly clutch. Can anyone venture an opinion on this one please?

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TerryW

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Mar 19, 2019
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There is close on 1.5mm end float on the main shaft that the clutch spins on. Not sure if that is within tolerance any comments?.



and the clutch basket wobbles enough to wear the belt.



Wondering which bearing is shot before I attempt any strip down.

any ideas?

Terry
 
Do you know if the nut on the other end of the main shaft under the gearbox outer cover is fully tight, if you don't then that's the likely culprit so needs checking.
 
There should be no endplay. That's controlled by the other end of the shaft. Take the outer cover off and have a look. Wobble can mean a bent mainshaft or bad sleeve (mainshaft) bearing Turn and watch it with the clutch off and see it can move front to back or up and down.
 
Blue loctite is good on both nuts, the clutch side especially as the Norton torque figure is too high and can ruin the clutch locating circlip.
 
Used marine loctite throughout and torqued the clutch basket nut to 45 foot pounds.

Now that the clutch is back together it chatters when I operate the clutch lever? Is this normal? Did I just not notice it before? Have I caused chatter by taking the end float away?

 
TerryW said:
Now that the clutch is back together it chatters when I operate the clutch lever? Is this normal? Did I just not notice it before?
Click to expand...

Well, it makes the same sound in your previous video.
Normal? I don't think so. Edit: Although it could perhaps be the pressure plate rattling against the spring due to running a 'dry' belt/clutch?
The pushrod adjuster seems to be screwed out a long way.
 
Last edited:
LAB Wrote:
Well, it makes the same sound in your previous video.
Normal? I don't think so. Edit: Although it could perhaps be the pressure plate rattling against the spring due to running a 'dry' belt/clutch?
The pushrod adjuster seems to be screwed out a long way.

I submit that the rattling noise are the clutch disks hitting each other. A Ducati dry clutch makes very similar noises. I agree that the pressure plate, metal on metal has, most likely, got the loudest voice.

Best.
 
Maybe I am getting paranoid. This bike is about the most unreliable beast that I have ever ridden. I had a mk3 before and loads of old Triumphs. They weren’t perfect but they didn’t break every ten miles. Thanks for all the help.
 
TerryW said:
Maybe I am getting paranoid. This bike is about the most unreliable beast that I have ever ridden. I had a mk3 before and loads of old Triumphs. They weren’t perfect but they didn’t break every ten miles. Thanks for all the help.
Click to expand...
You must sift through decades of improper repairs by half fast shadetree mechanics. After that, reliability will be a known.
 
I suspect that is what I am doing with this one. Happily, I am lucky enough to have other rides.
 
As per LAB's comment: The clutch push rod adjuster screw looks a bit further out than normal ?

If you tighten the clutch centre nut up to 70 ft.lbs as per the manual it can crunch the circlip (06.0752)
on the main shaft causing the clutch to sit inboard and be loose. Most advise to tighten to 40 ft.lbs.
 
Well, I was gonna mention that but the son's trackbike got me all busy again. Had to examine it and test ride it (Cbr800RR). Tough old life eh.

When test riding the Nortie, I noticed that when I got some speed up the play in the clutch cable gently disappeared and the clutch started to slip. Weird or what? I naturally slowed down and it went back to normal. Was that my mind playing tricks? Apparently not. It does it all the time. I must have "messed up" putting the actuator mechanism back on under the outer gearbox cover.

I'll pull it apart Thursday coming and see what I messed up. Well done LAB and Staytite. Very well spotted.
 
The clutch location circlip (06.0752) is a bit notorious for being pushed out of its groove when tightening the clutch nut.

I use the circlip off the electric starter, which I think is 06.8072. Perhaps LAB can confirm ?

The ecectric starter circlip is a bit fatter than the standard circlip and needs to be thinned on emery paper to fit the groove.

HOWEVER WATCH OUT: THE 06.0872 CIRCLIP IS VERY DIFFICULT TO FIT AND A TOTAL B*STARD TO GET OFF
 
Is there a way to determine which side of the mainshaft to start looking? Or shall I just take pot luck? Getting a bit frustrated with the repeat spannering. It isn't an onerous job but gets a bit boring doing the same job twice. Honestly, I took extreme care the first time and tested every bit as it was rebuilt.
 
I'm not sure what you mean? The standard circlip I'm referring to sits in a groove just behind the clutch
and within the primary chaincase. (Look up 06.0752) in the parts diagram on Andover Norton site)

It is the only item that stops the clutch moving inboard against the inside of the inner primary chain case.

The bare gearbox mainshaft protrudes through the inner primary chain case. The circlip (06.0752) is fitted
into the groove on the gearbox mainshaft, the circlip is "covered" by the reduced section of the clutch location
spacer (06.0747) then as many shims as required to aligh the clutch to the front sprocket and then the clutch
basket..... or do you know all this already ?
 
Sorry. Wasn't explaining myself properly.
I have disassembled the "gubbings" at both ends of the mainshaft. I had to remove the clutch actuator inside the gearbox outer cover to do up the nut that came lose (came off actually). Also, I had the clutch basket off to check the greased bearing. So, I had the "gear" either end of the mainshaft apart. I took enormous care in the rebuild but I still must have cocked something up one side. I was just wondering which end to start the investigation and whether there is a way of determining where I cocked up.
My money is on the ball mechanism (clutch actuator) inside the gearbox outer cover but it may well be something odd in the chaincase like a circlip misbehaving. Wish I had an X-Ray machine but no such luck.
 
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