Welding procedure request

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robs ss

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I am about to weld some cut joints on footrest hangers and kickstart shanks (forged or cast steel?)
Any members have advice on rod (arc or TIG) selection or procedure (amps + ??)
Cheers
Rob
 
Forged. ER70S2 GTAW process. If you're asking about the current setting, you may want to consider hiring a weldor. Or bribe a knowledgeable mate with beer.
 
Forged. ER70S2 GTAW process. If you're asking about the current setting, you may want to consider hiring a weldor. Or bribe a knowledgeable mate with beer.
Yep - already got that thanks - just trying to help him.
I can even make hard facing look bad!!
Thanks for the steel spec.:D
 
The parts you are welding is very thick so you be able to up the amps, the hotter you get it the better the penteration of the weld, maybe get some left over metal and do a few runs and adjust the amps as you weld to get the best setting for the welder you are using.

Ashley
 
Due to the shape of the items being joined, and the consequent requirement for ‘filler’ material, wouldn’t brazing be better?
 
The parts you are welding is very thick so you be able to up the amps, the hotter you get it the better the penteration of the weld, maybe get some left over metal and do a few runs and adjust the amps as you weld to get the best setting for the welder you are using.

Ashley
The weld prep (bevel) will allow the weldor to weld the forging completely. The current will be set to allow the weldor to achieve the most efficient deposition without undercut using his chosen filler material diameter.
 
Many frames, swinging arms, etc, are brazed, I’ve brazed footrests and brake pedals galore. A mate cut and brazed the rocker arms on his Velo racer (to alter the ratio)...

So I’m struggling to see that braze wouldn’t be strong enough for footrests personally.

I’m not saying it’d be any better either tho, and it clearly sounds like welding is viable.
 
Many frames, swinging arms, etc, are brazed, I’ve brazed footrests and brake pedals galore. A mate cut and brazed the rocker arms on his Velo racer (to alter the ratio)...

So I’m struggling to see that braze wouldn’t be strong enough for footrests personally.

I’m not saying it’d be any better either tho, and it clearly sounds like welding is viable.
You win Eddie.

ASME section III, section VIII, and FAA A&P certified and hundreds of industrial repairs as well.

Can it be done? Yes. Will I be the one laughing the loudest when your kicker folds in the carpark? Yup.

Will I stop you doing a footrest? If I can.
Carry on.
 
No one is welding a kick start. Rob (the Op) is welding footrests.

I was simply asking why you though it was not suitable...

If I understand you correctly, you’re saying weld would be stronger.
 
Given that I have access, thanks to my nice neighbour, to excellent TIG welding, I think that's the path I will go down.
I am giving the parts a decent "v" prep and have got some ER70S2 rods (thanks @concours !)
I am certain the result will be stronger than brazing - although I may use that idea to "fair" some of the joints as needed - particularly this one:
Welding procedure request
 
Vee it down to leave only a 1/4" diameter land. Need not be a 45 degree bevel either, rather, 30 degrees each will yield 60 degrees total.... plenty of access, without excess filling.
Properly done, the weld beads inherent reinforcement (with no undercut) will leave plenty of material to belt sand down to achieve the original profile. (FINE grit!!!)
 
It all depends who is doing the welding and if they know how to weld the proper way, anyone can weld but not all can weld the right way, a good tradesman is the best skilled person to do the job best who has been welding most of his life and would know the best way of doing it with what metal you are using, but of course a good handyman could also do it but not as good, arc or mig would be the best way to weld your foot peg, but it depends on the welder, brazing would be better for thin metal and tig is best for SS and alloy, but then its in the hands of the person doing the welding and who knows what they are doing.
I worked at a TEC college and did night course in welding, fitting and turning, I was taught by some of the best tradesmen around, my welding teachers spent most of their working life in heavy construction and ship building, but still doesn't make me the best welder around, but I did learn a lot, preperation and penteration is most important to having a good strong weld that will last forever, some welds can look good on the top but not have the penteration under it.
They also did upgrade training for tradesmen welders who needed tickets for gas pipes etc where their welds would be x-ray to past for their tickets and a lot failed to get it right even if they were a good welder.
Your welding machine also plays a big part, but think you be right for what you are doing.

Ashley
 
Because ?
Chewing gum would be better.

(you don't get penetration and the bronze affects the metallurgy. Bronze is particularly bad on exhausts - bronze welds cause components to crack like crazy, when there is vibration )
 
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In industry, there is an exercise known as 'qualification of welders.' It consists of welding test pieces of the same configuration and material and consumables, as would be used in practice - a tensile test is done on the test pieces. When you weld your motorcycle part, you are doing a one-off and the risk of failure is greater. I have a welding inspector's ticket, but I cannot weld to save myself. What you need is somebody who has the fingers. In our town, there is a general engineering shop which does a wide variety of work. If I want something welded, I go there and the charge me ten bucks.
 
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