Wassell Rotor Interference

rockitdoc · Jul 9, 2017

Guys,
I installed the high output Wassell rotor/stator combo on my 850, but it rubs on the timing marker on the primary cover. I could not find anything on line or with the kit that indicated which way to fit it. So, I installed it with the two slits and the name Wassell facing outward. However, on closer inspection, it appears that if the rotor is installed the other way round (with the 'A' and 'B' marks facing outward), it will clear the timing marker. Did I have it installed backwards? As you can see, the interference is significant. The other possibility is that my crank pulley is not back far enough on the crank and the 'Wassell' side should face outward?

Danno · Jul 9, 2017

I've never seen one on any Britbike installed any other way but timing marks out. I realize Wassel parts are repops, but no reason they should be installed the other way.

If the rotor is relatively flush with the stator, it's not too far out.

rockitdoc · Jul 9, 2017

Danno said:
I've never seen one on any Britbike installed any other way but timing marks out. I realize Wassel parts are repops, but no reason they should be installed the other way.

If the rotor is relatively flush with the stator, it's not too far out.

What are the 'A' and 'B' marks for?

L.A.B. · Jul 9, 2017

rockitdoc said:
What are the 'A' and 'B' marks for?

They're for BSA and Triumph triples.

rockitdoc · Jul 9, 2017

L.A.B. said:
rockitdoc said:

What are the 'A' and 'B' marks for?

Click to expand...

They're for BSA and Triumph triples.

Makes sense.

Here is what it looks like in both positions. With the 'Wassell' side out, the timing marks are proud of the stator enough to hit the degree venier on the primary cover. With the 'A' and 'B' side out, there is no interference.

L.A.B. · Jul 9, 2017

rockitdoc said:
With the 'Wassell' side out, the timing marks are proud of the stator enough to hit the degree venier on the primary cover. With the 'A' and 'B' side out, there is no interference.

There shouldn't be any reason why you can't fit the rotor back to front if you want, but I think you will have to add another timing mark as I don't believe any of the 'A' or 'B' marks are in the right place for a twin.

rockitdoc · Jul 9, 2017

L.A.B. said:
rockitdoc said:

With the 'Wassell' side out, the timing marks are proud of the stator enough to hit the degree venier on the primary cover. With the 'A' and 'B' side out, there is no interference.

Click to expand...

There shouldn't be any reason why you can't fit the rotor back to front if you want, but I think you will have to add another timing mark as I don't believe any of the 'A' or 'B' marks are in the right place for a twin.

Correct. One of the 'A' marks is close, but not exactly where the marks are on the other side.

Since I now know the rotor is on the correct way, I just bent the Vernier on the cover away enough to clear the raised timing marks on the rotor.

Should be good to go, now. Thanks guys.

Stephen Hill · Jul 9, 2017

I have seen similar wear marks on the back of the timing plate on other Commando's. Suggests that the stock clearance is small. There are two rotor shims that move the rotor outboard (.010 and .036). Perhaps use the thin one? Or remove them all together?

Stephen Hill

rockitdoc · Jul 9, 2017

Stephen Hill said:
I have seen similar wear marks on the back of the timing plate on other Commando's. Suggests that the stock clearance is small. There are two rotor shims that move the rotor outboard (.010 and .036). Perhaps use the thin one? Or remove them all together?

Stephen Hill

There are no shims in my case. Looks like a case of clearance adjustment by larger hammer needed! Actually, by bending the 'degree wheel' outward, I think the problem is solved. We'll see.

Deets55 · Jul 10, 2017

Could you just remove the contact area on the rotor? You would probably be left with a mark near the edge and toward the center. Should be enough to set the timing with.

openroad · Jul 10, 2017

I just went thru this, I ground the timing marks down on the rotor until just the line showed, good enough for timing. Mine had been hitting the scale slightly over the years with the old rotor, and the replacement was up against it too.

rockitdoc · Jul 10, 2017

Deets55 said:
Could you just remove the contact area on the rotor? You would probably be left with a mark near the edge and toward the center. Should be enough to set the timing with.

Great minds think alike. I did that last night and there should be several thou clearance now.

Madnorton · Jul 10, 2017

Other option is to return it and get your single phase RM23 feeding a decent updated wiring system. Podtronics fed directly with the output, BSM to do away with the 'Oh my Alternator' is spining system.
I use this to feed a 14A/hr Yuasa and the BSM tells it does well even at night. Other simple cheap and easy upgrades are LED pilot light, combined rear and brake light LED board.

rockitdoc · Jul 10, 2017

The rotor hitting the timing marks was the least of my problems.

Piston kissed the intake valve on the left side.

Guess the valve guide to valve stem clearance was too tight?

Wassell Rotor Interference

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Danno

rockitdoc

L.A.B.

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L.A.B.

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Stephen Hill

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openroad

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Madnorton

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