Voltage leak search

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In searching for a recent voltage leak I disconnected the battery and tested continuity across the negative and ground wires and found 140 ohms with all switches off. I then isolated the wires and found all went to 1 except the red and black coming from the Podtronix regulator which read 140 ohms. I assume the regulator is bad and should read 1 across the red and black wires. Can someone confirm my suspicions? If bad is there better options than Podtronix?
 
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If no connection there would be infinite Ohms. 0 means it is connected well. On the regulator reading 140 Ohms: Try reversing the meter leads and see if still 140 Ohms. If so it probably is bad.
 
I traced a leak using the meter set to Milliamps with ignition off, the culprit was a Wassells reg/rectifier.
 
The rectifier, capacitor and zener are all the battery side of the ignition switch.

So depending on where and how you’ve connected your Podtronics, this is the behaviour I’d expect to see.
 
I traced a leak using the meter set to Milliamps with ignition off, the culprit was a Wassells reg/rectifier.

That's how I would troubleshoot it as well. An ohmmeter test will depend on polarity of the leads. Diodes read low resistance in the forward current direction so that 140 ohms is possibly OK. Milliamps of leakage current would be more definitive.
 
In searching for a recent voltage leak I disconnected the battery and tested continuity across the negative and ground wires and found 140 ohms with all switches off. I then isolated the wires and found all went to 0 except the red and black coming from the Podtronix regulator which read 140 ohms. I assume the regulator is bad and should read 0 across the red and black wires. Can someone confirm my suspicions? If bad is there better options than Podtronix?
If it read 0 across the red and black wires, there would be smoke or a blown fuse!

No matter if you have the original rectifier/zener or a solid state voltage regulator, there will be leakage current. For that reason, when my bikes will sit for a while, I take the fuse out.

Did you start with an actual problem to solve or did you just notice the resistance across the wires?
 
I traced a leak using the meter set to Milliamps with ignition off, the culprit was a Wassells reg/rectifier.

It happens to me also with a brand new Podtronic equivalent and used the same check ,just found it after unplugging everything but the charging side , just buy a second hand jap reg and throw away the culprit ......
 
If it read 0 across the red and black wires, there would be smoke or a blown fuse!

No matter if you have the original rectifier/zener or a solid state voltage regulator, there will be leakage current. For that reason, when my bikes will sit for a while, I take the fuse out.

Did you start with an actual problem to solve or did you just notice the resistance across the wires?
M
I started with a Norton Mark III that would start fine, Idle fine but when running at highway speed would miss and backfire. Found this while trying to find a loose connection or wire. I'm running Tri-Spark ignition and read on here that podtronics can put noise into the system and cause the Tri Spark to misfire. I'm planning to try running it without the Podtronics to see if the problem goes away. Also considered running a wire direct from battery to Tri Spark to rule out bad switch or loose wire somewhere. ( I edited my post to read 1 instead of 0. your right that would be dead short. Sorry
 
Also considered running a wire direct from battery to Tri Spark to rule out bad switch or loose wire somewhere
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yes, that is exactly what I have done, and also I do not trust frame grounds so grounded Trispark back by wire to pos battery terminal
 
M
I started with a Norton Mark III that would start fine, Idle fine but when running at highway speed would miss and backfire. Found this while trying to find a loose connection or wire. I'm running Tri-Spark ignition and read on here that podtronics can put noise into the system and cause the Tri Spark to misfire. I'm planning to try running it without the Podtronics to see if the problem goes away. Also considered running a wire direct from battery to Tri Spark to rule out bad switch or loose wire somewhere. ( I edited my post to read 1 instead of 0. your right that would be dead short. Sorry
If you have the podtronics problem, running without it will answer that part. If that is the problem, the direct wire is not the answer - you need the noise filter. If you have a bad connection, the symptoms are likely to be different than the noise problem.

Read this: https://www.trispark.com.au/assets/files/Misfiring at 3000 to 4000 RPM - Caused by Voltage.pdf The problem only exists with POD-1P-HP (200-watt, single phase). If you do have the podtronics noise problem, PM me.
 
Something doesn’t add up here.

The new Podtronics units are made in Taiwan, I think this changed when Bob Kizer sold out to John Healy at Coventry Spares, I wonder if there was a change to the production process or model line at this point?

The high power single phase unit POD-1P-HP is the same as the three phase unit POD-3P
The only difference is that the third yellow wire is cut flush with the rubber grommet.

If it’s a noise problem, running a wire direct to the Tri-Spark from the battery may not stop the issue from manifesting - you would have to actually disconnect the Podtronics completely or fit one of the filters.

We also don’t know if it’s only a Podtronics that has this issues - Tri-Spark only tested Podtronics, as they are the units that they stock and sell on their site.

So we may see similar behaviour from other regulator/rectifier units too.
 
We also don’t know if it’s only a Podtronics that has this issues - Tri-Spark only tested Podtronics, as they are the units that they stock and sell on their site.

Not sure about this. I doubt that they tested anything in this regard until they had complaints. I know that I've sold/installed quite a few Tri-sparks and I've never had a complaint with misfiring.

Also, assuming you're right about there being no electronics change inside the device between single and 3-phase, the fact that the electronics are not being used as designed when single phase may be the whole problem.
 
Well the podtronics isn't the problem although it is one of the single phase 200 w that can cause the Tri spark problem. Took a ride today with the podtronics on the work bench and the missing still exists. I originally tried #74 drill in the pilot jet as the missing and backfire happens at acceleration from stop. Seems to run fine at idle and 70 mph. Maybe time to go through the Amals or maybe Premiers? Could be the Tri Spark as well as this is my second one. Matt replaced the first one but it failed when hot after stopping and wouldn't start. When it cooled down it would run fine again until it was shut of and wouldn't start. It ran perfect two weeks ago, 100 mile ride no problems. Kind of stumped.
 
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