Vintage Brake

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I have spoken to him on the telephone. He is not accepting any new work. I think he is planning on retiring. I have found no one else who will bond new linings to drum brake shoes and also turn the brake plate/shoe assembly to the correct diameter for the drum. I have found only 2 places capable/willing to turn the assembly to the finished diameter. Neither will bond new linings to shoes. I have a Grimeca 4LS front drum brake and need new linings. New shoes are not available.
 
@dickpage

Do you have an email address for him. Perhaps I can get him to send me lining material and rivets so I can DIY.

Slick
 
If anybody does contact Vintage Brake, could you get his permission to upload a copy of the master cylinder to caliper ratio chart to the technical section here? It's been very handy to me over the years and I'm sure many others too. (I guess he'd need to send a copy to somebody on here as well).

Cheers,

cliffa.
 
If anybody does contact Vintage Brake, could you get his permission to upload a copy of the master cylinder to caliper ratio chart to the technical section here? It's been very handy to me over the years and I'm sure many others too. (I guess he'd need to send a copy to somebody on here as well).

Cheers,

cliffa.

All that's needed is a link to the VintageBrake page if it returns.
 
If anybody does contact Vintage Brake, could you get his permission to upload a copy of the master cylinder to caliper ratio chart to the technical section here? It's been very handy to me over the years and I'm sure many others too. (I guess he'd need to send a copy to somebody on here as well).

Cheers,

cliffa.
The direct link to subpages gets the same suspended message.

So,

Using the Wayback Machine which keeps copies of sites I got this link


I downloaded the gif file, enlarged it and posted it to Postimages.org

Vintage Brake



Text from page is


Front Master Cylinder Ratio Chart

While attending Vintage Days West, and thoroughly enjoying it, I was reminded that many of the people I had occasion to talk to, lacked an understanding of the importance of master cylinder to wheel cylinder ratios. This critical ratio is of paramount importance in determining "feel". It has been my experience that there is a "sweet spot" in the range. I like ratios in the 27:1 range-2 finger power brakes, feeling some line and/or caliper flex. 23:1 is at the other end of the spectrum-firm. Ratios lower than 20:1 can result a feel so "wooden" as to have a toggle switch effect: nothing happens until the wheel locks. Disc and wheel diameters must be taken into consideration. A 10 inch disc working against an 19" wheel just doesn't have the leverage ratio that a 13 inch disc working a 17" wheel does. The hand lever ratio counts too: witness the adjustable master cylinders from Lockheed and Brembo.

A case in point: I had a complaint from a racer about Ferodo CP901- a compound renown for its great feel. His comment was that they worked poorly until the wheel locked. He had been thrown on the ground twice. Intrigued, I inquired as to the application. "Yamaha RD350" he replied. A red flag went up. CP901 was not available for the 48mm Yamaha caliper. I asked "How that could that be?" He had up-graded his braking system with the 41mm Lockheed unit, but was unaware that a master cylinder change was in order. A stock RD 350 has an already poor ratio of 18.3 :1, and with Lockheed, became an unhealthy 13.3 :1. The "sweet spot" formula said a change to a 11 or 12mm master cylinder was in order: my personal preference and recommendation would have been an 11mm. He was able to switch to a 1/2" , and although not ideal, he was keeping the rubber side down.


For 2 piston opposed calipers, I like ratios in the 27:1 range, feeling some line and caliper flex. For a firmer lever, use 23:1. I think ratios lower than 23:1 produce a lever feel so "wooden" as to have little, if any feel. Combine "low" leverage ratios with sticky pads, and unpredictable lockup is the result. The high effort required at the lever also results in undesired input to the bars. Single piston calipers are much happier in the 14:1 to 12:1 range. Disc and wheel diameters, as well as hand lever ratios, must be considered.
 
Very sorry to hear that he's closed down. Very good info from that source. This has been a bad year for important people leaving the Norton world.
There is a shop in Seattle where I take my brake shoes to be relined. He says he is the supplier for VINTAGE BRAKE. Maybe not all linings. The place is called BRAKE AND CLUTCH 206 622 5655 Spark is the main guy with the most knowledge. He has quite a few old bikes. Call before 3.
I had them put on new linings 1/4" thick so I could fit them to the brake drum. Price was $65.00. It is JUST possible to fit the brake backing plate into a chinese 9" lathe but requires quite a bit of engineering. A project for this winter.
 
I used Capitol Clutch and Brake in West Sacramento, Ca. They relined (bonded) eight shoes for my Vincent. I was fortunate to have an NOS lining on hand for them to match. They do not spcecilalize in motorcycles; however, their work is very good, and my relined shoes only needed slight arcing to the drums. Cost was around $250.00.






www.capitolclutch.com​

 
In Australia I used Leo at https://www.bcafrictionmaterials.com.au/ because on the last bike the front brake shoes are not available. (They relined all four)

The arcing I used the mill, in a lathe there is a possibility of pushing the shoe axially. (imho)
Central turn buckle not shown.

Vintage Brake
 
I did mine in a lathe, fixed the shoes in place using engineering clamps as otherwise the shoes will move with a too heavy cut. As I always covert shoes to fully floating this is even more of an issue.

Vintage Brake
 
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