- Joined
- Oct 19, 2005
- Messages
- 18,978
At the vintage rally I love to see the old leather belt drives and the long tiny oil spit tube run along with exhaust as gentlemanly exit for the total loss systems that only needed a pump or two every dozen miles or so. No need to filter oil if it only goes around once.
For most my C'do life I was at least as anal as the majority of views I read, 5 minute first change, 100 mile 2nd, 500 3rd, 1000 4th and about 1000 miles there after with new filters, by far mostly using Mobile 1 synthetic, but after seeing almost as much sludge in crank at 7000 miles as after 40,000 on pre-non-filtered Peel, I don't think filters do much that matters to Nortons and a waste of effort to seek out the very best over just renewing once a year or so with any filter that's handy. In other words most the particles created are too small to filter and too small to matter to friction, while the particles that get filtered are too big to get into the friction spaces anyway, so essentially the filter is just keeping down the sludge build up off stagnate areas, like TS bottom and oil tank bottom and sludge trap, but not hardly enough to matter a whitworth. Next batch of sludge, spray with wd40, then stir a magnet over the sediment...
Unless you get a rather refined expensive specialty filter for 1 to 10 micron particles, ya might be interested in some of my unicorn horns to keep dragons out your garden.
Clearance Size Particles scale, green sized don't matter but the reds are bad juju.
More in here..
http://www.oilguard.com/whareclpacs.html
Now if ya plumbed in a bypass filter to get the badest particles, that has fleet proven protection.
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C29nr3PKKes&feature=related[/video]
For most my C'do life I was at least as anal as the majority of views I read, 5 minute first change, 100 mile 2nd, 500 3rd, 1000 4th and about 1000 miles there after with new filters, by far mostly using Mobile 1 synthetic, but after seeing almost as much sludge in crank at 7000 miles as after 40,000 on pre-non-filtered Peel, I don't think filters do much that matters to Nortons and a waste of effort to seek out the very best over just renewing once a year or so with any filter that's handy. In other words most the particles created are too small to filter and too small to matter to friction, while the particles that get filtered are too big to get into the friction spaces anyway, so essentially the filter is just keeping down the sludge build up off stagnate areas, like TS bottom and oil tank bottom and sludge trap, but not hardly enough to matter a whitworth. Next batch of sludge, spray with wd40, then stir a magnet over the sediment...
Unless you get a rather refined expensive specialty filter for 1 to 10 micron particles, ya might be interested in some of my unicorn horns to keep dragons out your garden.
B.F.D. Buy False Defense?Wix media in the automotive full-flow oil filter is able to trap and hold essentially all the contaminant particles larger than 25 microns
Clearance Size Particles scale, green sized don't matter but the reds are bad juju.
More in here..
http://www.oilguard.com/whareclpacs.html
Now if ya plumbed in a bypass filter to get the badest particles, that has fleet proven protection.
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C29nr3PKKes&feature=related[/video]