Unicorn horns vs full pass oil filter protection

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At the vintage rally I love to see the old leather belt drives and the long tiny oil spit tube run along with exhaust as gentlemanly exit for the total loss systems that only needed a pump or two every dozen miles or so. No need to filter oil if it only goes around once.

For most my C'do life I was at least as anal as the majority of views I read, 5 minute first change, 100 mile 2nd, 500 3rd, 1000 4th and about 1000 miles there after with new filters, by far mostly using Mobile 1 synthetic, but after seeing almost as much sludge in crank at 7000 miles as after 40,000 on pre-non-filtered Peel, I don't think filters do much that matters to Nortons and a waste of effort to seek out the very best over just renewing once a year or so with any filter that's handy. In other words most the particles created are too small to filter and too small to matter to friction, while the particles that get filtered are too big to get into the friction spaces anyway, so essentially the filter is just keeping down the sludge build up off stagnate areas, like TS bottom and oil tank bottom and sludge trap, but not hardly enough to matter a whitworth. Next batch of sludge, spray with wd40, then stir a magnet over the sediment...

Unless you get a rather refined expensive specialty filter for 1 to 10 micron particles, ya might be interested in some of my unicorn horns to keep dragons out your garden.
Wix media in the automotive full-flow oil filter is able to trap and hold essentially all the contaminant particles larger than 25 microns
B.F.D. Buy False Defense?


Clearance Size Particles scale, green sized don't matter but the reds are bad juju.
Unicorn horns vs full pass oil filter protection

More in here..
http://www.oilguard.com/whareclpacs.html

Now if ya plumbed in a bypass filter to get the badest particles, that has fleet proven protection.
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C29nr3PKKes&feature=related[/video]
 
Owned and driven trucks for 30 years, never heard of rod and mains getting changed with so few miles. Must be magical to make such a dramatic difference.
 
Ugh, I'm can only go by what I read in the papers and my meager experience. Appreciate and respect your report on long lived truck bottoms with normal filters, but may not strike me same way it does you, it implies to me that normal filtering is over rated except by the vendors. The heavier references on this [I'm still studying] involve lab analysis in military and fleets of various engines. Most of what I see involves as chemical reactions as physical abrasion. I still don't know what to make of the toilet paper filter conversion reports, do you?

http://www.frantzoil.com/TOILETPAPER.html
First, the entire roll is supported upon a reinforced screed inside the Frantz Oil Filter unit. A metal tube goes up through the cardboard tube from the base of the Frantz Oil Filter unit and is locked in place by a snap ring circumferencing the outer edge on top of the roll of paper. Held tightly and snug inside the cannister now, the TP is ready to go to work for you filtering the foreign substance and materials that *actually does the harm to your engine*.
Unicorn horns vs full pass oil filter protection
 
JC Whitney used to sell the toilet paper filter kit long ago. I thought it was gimmick back then, but hey, I could be wrong. They had a lot of advanced stuff, like water injectors for gas mileage, underdash record players, and x-ray glasses. No wait, that was on the comic books back page. I think ordered the itch powder once, and the gum that turns your teeth black. The x-ray glasses, well, TSA probably is wearing those today.
I'm drifting......TP filters, perhaps their time has come.
 
"How am I supposed to service my Frantz Oil Filter?

Always service your Frantz Oil Filter after your engine has been turned off for at least 1/2 hour. The steps to replace the TP Element are:

1. Remove the Clamp.
2. Pull off the Canister.
3. Remove the TP Element.
4. Replace with a clean new Frantz "Select" TP Element. (TP must be high density 1-ply.) What!? No squeezably soft Charmin?
5. Replace Canister.
6. Replace Clamp.
7. Top off your engine Oil Level if necessary: (Usually less than a quart)"
8. Wash hands before returning to work
 
When I was in the yacht business I came across a few trans-oceanic yachts such as Nordhavn, Selene, Kadey Krogans and others that hadfuel scrubbing systems that utilized a roll of paper towels as an element to run diesel through to remove particulate matter. Most had at least two and some four cannisters that filtered the fuel in series. By changing a few valves on the master fuel manifolds fuel was pumped from a main strorage tank, through the filtration system and then into the "day tank". The engine(s) then drew fuel from the day tank for running.

Since some would top off fuel tanks in the islands prior to the jump across to the Azores or Canary Islands, the fuel they got was not always of the highest quality. Keeping it clean by utilizing fuel scrubbers, a couple of Racors, a couple of fuel water seperators, some biocide (to prevent mildew and mold in the tanks) as well as fuel filters on the engine(s) was VERY important.

Some of these vessels were only 43 to 57 feet and most were single engines. Having contaminated fuel stop an engine half way across the Atlantic is not a good thing!!!!
 
Oh man Steve you must of had some high times on the seas and sales of ocean going play things. I always marveled at the lack of dust but recoiled at the bilges[sp] of some and how clean to eat off others were.

Between my fairly recent realization that full flow filters are just basic screens for oil ways and my analysis that sludge is essentially all metal dust in the worse wear sizes and fleet owners + Comstock mentioning bypass filtration that catches even unicorn horn dust, I've decided new Peel must have one in her head feed. Don't know what filter to get yet but TP stuffed in a cute billet canister has its appeal. Maybe cigarette butt filters, new ones for roll your own use might do the hick trick. There is another post going I'm the dissenting view point, ugh, so post here for the few that care to follow the steps into my camp.
Last up close encounter was a 50's footer sport fishermen in Belize with 3 huge turbo diesels that allowed planing in 4 ft seas. The rumble was like a PT torpedo boat.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbNA602Z ... re=related

http://gulfcoastfilters.com/wear_reduct ... ts_usi.htm
One of the primary benefits when utilizing UF By-Pass filtration is wear reduction. As mentioned before, the factory full flow filter is designed to perform a protecting job, in that it removes large particles that could damage vital parts. The full flow filter does little to reduce “Normal” wear within the engine. The vast majority of solid contamination generated within the engine is below 10 microns in size. As shown below, the full flow filter is only capable of controlling 15 micron and up particles. The10-micron and smaller microscopic particles are too small for the full flow filter to remove. Once introduced to the lubrication system, it is the job of the oil to suspend these tiny particles within the additive package, until it can be drained away at your expense. However, while this abrasive contamination is within the oil, it tends to “sandpaper” away at bearings, cams, and other engine parts, causing the “Normal Wear.” UF By-Pass filters are capable of removing and controlling particles within the 1 to 5 micron and smaller range. By using UF By-Pass filtration, extended engine life can be accomplished.
Unicorn horns vs full pass oil filter protection
 
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