- Jan 15, 2008
If you have a hacksaw and a welder, you could make a similar tool. You wouldn't necessarily be sacrificing the spanner, either; it is still (almost) totally useable with the lump attached...
TW, did you take this pic with the pushrods in place?
TW: like I said before, because of the angle of the pushrods, you cannot lower the head on the barrel vertically. Too long studs can make it difficult, or even impossible. Try first.
I suppose TW will remove the outer row of teeth... Is the clutch basket getting the same treatment as well?
Just wondering what the advantages are of doing this, other than being able to fix any errors in the stator mounting bolts.
Ah, that's clear now. When I checked my setup, there was an error of a couple of degrees, which would have made my ignition thing slightly retarded from spec. I was very interested in checking this after my rather expensive JS pistons overheated at Spa in 2019, so I spent quite a bit of time checking the accuracy of the marks. Now I have a correction factor to work on when I eventually get the bugger back together again.Indeed, the dial gauge mark is quite a bit off in the picture above.
This bar stop has a projection underneath (along with a piece of printer paper)
If machined flat underneath a suitable disc can be slipped under (on an 850) to avoid having to wind the crank a full turn.
The stator surface was a bit wavy but has some timing marks now, it will still need checking for clearance to the rotor but no surprise, trying a few other outer primary covers showed the stock degree plate was pretty much on the money (1 degree either way at most)