TTI don't fit cradle - whot do ya do?

Peel's 23 lb TTI does not fit the alloy cradle hole d/t fouling on the drain plug and big acorn nut facing forward. Any cautions on the grinding cutting cradle to clear? I had to take some off the DS hole for a Quafe shell but ain't got TTI in that far yet.

Grind away good sir!

I relieved the engine mount plates, (similar to mods posted on here for std AMC box)removed acorn nut(for show only anyway) didn't use the standard top bolt spacer between the gearbox housing and mounting plate LHS, fitted the gearbox , replaced the acorn nut.
Once installed, you never have to remove, even if you need to open up the box as it comes apart as a cassette style unit.
Leave the gear change on, ( remove kickstarter if you have one , mine does not)remove the outer cover bolts, remove outer cover, remove 6 x inner cover bolts, remove mainshaft nut from clutch centre, hold clutch housing and centre hub in place,(dont have to remove the primary chain and/or belt) remove cassette out of the gearbox including mainshaft.
Gearbox sprocket and rear chain remain intact.
Regards Mike

Hobot,

Actually you can grind some of the TTi box away!

I fitted one into a Rickman frame and had a significant interference mainy with the nut which holds the detent spring on a Commando box.

But on a TTi box the nut and the stud it is fitted to is just dummy because the drum change does not need it, in fact the whole cam plate area is dummy to retain the look of an AMC box which is require for vintage racing...take it out and look again, care but it need somme leverage because it is loctited in.

The cases are a lot thicker than Commando, and in fact thicker than they need to be....be thoughtful, but have at it...

Oh man I've glad to get filled in on the funny business fitting of TTI as no instructions but the lube to use. Removing the acorn if only decorative and replace with shallower is what I'll attempt before final grinding. Makes me laugh nervously thinking of what might drive one to grind away TTI cases like Peeling off a Cnote on each grinder pass. Peel has KS feature, but not decided what sort of kick lever to install. Its a custom low ratio so should help kick over.

Oh Yeah, the drain plug is drilled for safety wire but no obvious anchor point, what did anyone do there?

hobot, I like the idea of you grinding on the TTI box. Is it magnesium? While grinding, if you begin to see a brilliant white flash, douse it with water :lol:

In all seriousness, I would avoid grinding on the TTI box if at all possible - it would be my last last resort.

As for the safety wire, nothing is sacred; you can loop it around a web in the trans cradle or if you are so inclined, drill the acorn nut or cradle and tie off to there.

I had to draw file the flat faces (either side of the lower mount bolt hole)in the lower part of the gearbox case just to make it a neat and tidy fit, used a couple of high quality files and a deburiing tool afterwards. I wouldn't recommend 'grinding' as such hobot style!!!!
Just be patient
Regards Mike

Pics please...

Hm, grinding style like hobot, ok sure 4 various ways, but pretty handy with files chainsaws to cradle and cam lobes recovery. Got thing for files fine finishes. I hate taking possible material strength out of expensive cradle but must follow hard hearted racer boys chiming in. Peel's cradle is 5/16" thick but relieved to just slice and dice least damaging parts crake or TTI. I'll JBW a wire tab nearby over a drilled pit. Shell is not magnesium d/t the cost, the toughness, corrosion resistance and ease to ugh grind off some, as likely the 530 X ring chain will for a few miles. Dang I forget to tell TTI it arrived ok but also no sprockets as promised. I got 2 choices, 17 to 23T , which both appeal and 20 21 easy to accquire. I freaked at frist when Swain black coated the engine cases but now see fate was helping me match the TTI I had no idea would ever be in hand back then.

My long suffering hard drive fried d/t me being discipline finally to take to my 'puter builder to provide a back up drive - ugh, so have not reloaded a bunch of stuff back such as camera or photo's so nothing to show until the dust settles.

Oh what would happen if I take off the big acorn nut, nothing or the guts fall apart with spring force inside?

Concours, I dont have pics of the filing and deburring, although have pics of the TTI apart, or are you asking hobot?
Regards Mike

its literally a black box to me right now so please show TTI laid out for us novices. I was confused on which pic's too.

Ok will do on the TTI box pics, acorn nut is for looks only, just empty, no detent spring as in AMC box. You could plug the hole with a grub screw type bolt if necessary.
As I dont have a centre stand on the race bike, I lock wired the sumplug back to the cradle main stand spring hole!!
Regards mike

Alrighty I'm never as good a mechanic as when others holding my hand point by point. Acorn nut might fit somewhere else. Hm sure would like N light as wire box has provision for it.

Grinding drain plugs etc is fairly butcherous and it looks shit-house. Even if it was hidden, I would know it was there. When I fitted the TTI box to my Seeley, I was replacing a Norton box. I moved the bottom mount holes in the plates back about 1 inch, and reshaped the top adjustment slots a bit. And I think the holding studs were larger diameter, however I had both made out of titanium and used fine thread UNF steel nuts. I suggest you take the plates out of the frame and size the top slots to fit the stud, then hang the gearbox from the top stud and see what clearance you have in front of the box when it is behind the motor. Then mark out the bottom holes. I always drill the two plates bolted up together. It is not easy to get the top and bottom correct, however I would not use the original bottom mounting holes . My Seeley is fairly tight back there, because of the slope on the motor, however I didn't have to grind anything.

Alan , no mention of grinding acorn nuts or drain plugs, these can actually be removed and once gearbox is fitted into cradle, plugs and bolts can be replaced in their original holes.
We are talking Commando cradles here, it takes very little to modify the cradle to get the TTI box in, you have to take even less out of the relief area with the acorn dummy nut and sump plugs removed.
Regards Mike

Pics of TTI box apart

http://s1228.photobucket.com/user/Brook ... 7075829673
Hope the link works
Regards Mike

I must have misunderstood hobot's intentions. I would have thought fitting the TTI box to a commando would be fairly easy, I have less room on the Seeley.

Ugh Peel is way more clutted than a race only cycle and was expecting to grind just not as much as the darn Acorn horn in the way, so very relieved less cradle butchering needed. I want to learn to handle tire folding power snaps again which is what most would think of but Peel also needs to stay in lower gears near redline for kix.

Well I'm still creeping up a few .001"th's with each cradle notch out till next hang up I need hand holding on - while hoping a prior remark of the excess meat in TTI shell applies to where something has yet to go.

Got oil plug notch by hour of hax saw and round file, which let tranny go in till next hang up on a slight shell contour but able to cordless steel burr that in few min. for next hang up of DS shell face and alloy cradle cut out I'd opened some for the Quafe shell. Got camera soft ware back first try. rare in my dingdongdigital world that has stumped geeks routinely since reel to reel memory daze.

pencil shaded area to remove


wife was trying to sleep so did it by hand > for least muscle time making metal dust.


just decorative finishing left here


after some measuring determined part the fouling was cradle gap at bottom so attempted to gain another couple 1000th's and did this way. Poor ole abused cradle.


top of shell fits to slide nice and close, bottom of shell still hangs up a couple 100oths to fit inside and is resisted to twist d/t the DS face of TTI and or cradle hole fouling. this is where I need to know which to sacrafice first and most? Light pencil line guessimate of fouling amount to complete shell twist to align mount holes.

If it were me, and if the cradle is steel, I would take it out of the cradle. Every time you hack and wack on the trans you are diminishing the value of the trans. Also, if you have not done so already, loosen up the engine through bolts on the back of the motor; it may ease up on the tightness a little bit.