Triton project questions

I just bought a slimline featherbed frame, the numbers indicate it is from an "All 650 twins, and a 1965 model" if my research is correct... it has an 18 and 111713. Am I right?

As far as motors are concerned, I am undecided. I have access to Pre-Unit triumphs, Nortons, and a 1979 Triumph 750 motor. I am thinking about the 79 motor, as it is complete with all parts and ran recently. It also has a title, which may help with registration when I am completed with the bike. In addition, it is a 5 speed left side shift. Of course I do like the looks of a Pre-Unit motor.

I have also looked at front ends... Suzuki with dual brakes... Honda... hmmm not sure here... :?:

The tank and seat are no brainers..

Any suggestions here would be appreciated. I know the ultimate choice is mine, but I am concerned with title and registration issues if I buy a motor without the title. The frame does not have a title.

Thanks!

Pre-unit, Roadholders.

Go classic. Anyone can put newer parts on a bike.

Anyone can put newer parts on a bike, but my newer aluminum swingarm has about 12 hours of modification to it to fit my 1973. It's not as easy as using original parts, or eaven similar model parts. When I did the MK3 disk brake conversion that was easy, just finding the parts.

Hi

My 1961 650SS has a 18 then 95000 stamped on the frame , yours has 6 numbers afther the 18 so I think yours would be a 65 model, I have to chase up a head for the motor as it was the ony thing missing, if I can't chase up a head I will be thinking about another motor in it but I think I will stick with a Norton motor weather it be a Atlas or Commando as I already have a 850 Commando motor in a Wideline frame, I built this up in 1979 and love the way it handles, the good thing about Featherbed frames is you can just about put any motor in them and they will always handle great...

Ashley

Personally, I'd go with a Norton mill, but one of my Favorite bikes is the 650SS.

Wouldn't Make it a Triton though. For that, do what you want. The bike is already hacked up.

RSR

Classic would be a better way to go... I agree.

The only Norton motors I have access to at present (available to buy at a steep price) would be a 750 or 850. I would like to build a Manx replica, so finding a 500 would be cool too. Of course if I remember right the Manx had a wideline versus a slimline.

The idea of a 650 has also crossed my mind, but I haven't been able to find 1 at present. If I went with the 750 or 850, the gentleman wants me to buy buy the whole project versus the motor. It would have some good extra parts I can use but I am watching my cash right now.

If anyone has any info on a good 650 or 500 motor, plus someone I can talk to who is a good engine builder please let me know.

Thanks for the help folks. Any more recs would be appreciated.

Also SAAB 91 , 3 cylinder two-strokes . Ford Cortina 1600 crossflow , later turboed . BOP - Rover - Leyland V-8 3.5 to 4.6 litre,
with this one tip the engine forward so the Kness fit .
And
Hillman Imp ! the later (sorted) one , for a 'classic' .Designed by Mundy , who did the V-12 Jag and Coventry Climax engines .
A decent exhaust & Webers on this with adequate cooling wouldnt be too bad .

Why not an 850 motor with a short stroke crank, tilt it forwards (looks better)

Jean

I agree whit Jean I did my 850 in 1979 in my Wideline Featherbed and I'm glad I did it no ajusting Isolastics any more and if you get the crank balanced right will never have any problems and use fine thread bolts and spring washers you will never have bolts come loose...

Best of all will have one of the best handling bike on the road...

Ashley

Your choice of parts depend upon what you intend to use the bike for.
I would say, for looks go for the Triumph pre unit, if you want to ride the thing any distance go for a unit motor. I can't comment on the Norton motor as I know nothing about them.
Regarding forks, jap parts on a Triton would look out of place, go for the Norton roadholder forks if you can afford them, if not, early OIF Triumph forks are cheap and look the part and they can be modified to take external springs if that's the look you're after.
Bear in mind that the frame and the motor are the cheap parts, it's the rest that cost's money, a rear hub (Triumph conical for example) starts at around 100 bucks, or you could go for a replica Manx hub at 2,000 bucks, the sky (and your wallet) is the limit. It's the same with front brakes, you can still pick up a Sukuki GT750 4LS front drum for around 300 - 400 bucks, personally I like the Gremeca 260mm 4LS that can be bought new for about 600, or again you could try and find a Yamaha TZ 280mm drum for around 2K or a new Fontana for about the same price.

If you need any further info and /or link and contacts let me know.

Webby

(71 Bonnie and Wideline Triton Unit 650 in progress)