Triton Build update!

steve828 · Apr 13, 2013

Well, time to post up abit of an update on the Triton build!

Motor is finally complete, 67 T120 top end, alloy tech pushrods, hepolite valves,

just the Magneto (need an auto advance) And the Primary side to sort (probably going belt drive)

Oil tank is on its way, with lines, and external filter.

ive only had it two months, and its literally been a crank up build!

ashman · Apr 13, 2013

Looking good so far.

Ashley

swooshdave · Apr 13, 2013

I might have a line on an auto advance.

WEAL Norton · Sep 30, 2015

The RH inlet pushrod is too long or the valve sunken in too far into the head.
You would want the short tube over the lower seal of the pushrod tube to stop it from squezzing out and leaking.

grandpaul · Sep 30, 2015

WEAL Norton said:
The RH inlet pushrod is too long or the valve sunken in too far into the head.

Yep, I spotted that adjuster too far out.

It COULD be a jammed pushrod which will gouge the inside of the rockerbox, and/or chip the pushrod end cap. Turning the engine over before sorting this issue out will result in one or both of those damages.

Fast Eddie · Sep 30, 2015

grandpaul said:
WEAL Norton said:

The RH inlet pushrod is too long or the valve sunken in too far into the head.

Click to expand...

Yep, I spotted that adjuster too far out.

It COULD be a jammed pushrod which will gouge the inside of the rockerbox, and/or chip the pushrod end cap. Turning the engine over before sorting this issue out will result in one or both of those damages.

Well, it was 2.5 years ago when he posted that pic !

Wonder if Steve828 has had chance to turn the engine over and find out yet ?

grandpaul · Sep 30, 2015

Fast Eddie said:
Well, it was 2.5 years ago when he posted that pic! Wonder if Steve828 has had chance to turn the engine over and find out yet ?

Odds are 50/50

acotrel · Oct 17, 2015

Nice bike ! - However the motor appears to be in the right spot - as far forward as possible, and the gearbox looks too far forward. Tritons and Manxes don't usually have that much space between the back of the gearbox and the pivot.
On this bike (pictured), the gearbox is in the right spot, however the motor could be an inch further forward with benefit. The position of the motor can make the difference between the bike feeling light in the front or more positive in the steering, which in racing can mean a crash or not.

If you remake your rear engine plates, you might make them full circle to help stop the frame tubes from cracking above the plates that support the swing arm. With what you have got, the bolt-in cross-member can pivot under the oil tank, and the rear engine plates can crack above the front of the gearbox. What you already have might be OK on a lightly used road bike, however if you thrash the bike, the weaknesses will probably reveal themselves.