TriSpark, Boyer, Pazon, Sparx, Wassell

p400

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On road a few days ago, P11 running well, but would not idle as well as usual.
25 miles out, spit once, and then dead, coast to a stop.
open distributor cap, found one points plate screw in the bottom of cap, the other loose.
points plate tilted and the phenolic points rubbing blocks chewed up.

I had figured on replacing this ignition with electronic, so now is the time.
Any one have a couple thousand miles on a new electronic ignition?


New clutch, resealed primary, oil tank vent catch system.....but DOR.
Awaiting new tach cable.
 

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p400

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this what was found, one screw out in cap the other screw loose and letting points plate tilt and move.
haven't looked at repairing this , simply shopping for electronic unit.
Anyone have road experience with any of the brands out there on an Atlas?
 

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texasSlick

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p400 said:
this what was found, one screw out in cap the other screw loose and letting points plate tilt and move.
haven't looked at repairing this , simply shopping for electronic unit.
Anyone have road experience with any of the brands out there on an Atlas?

I would consider converting to a magneto. From your pics, it looks like an easy conversion.

From what I read on the Cdo forum, the EI's have their problems. Set a K2F up properly, and it will run strong, start on first kick, and be reasonably maintenance free. Plus, you can get home if the battery/charging system fails. If you want to go modern, I think Joe Hunt has a model meant to mount where your points are.

Slick
 
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I've put Boyer's in P11's with no problems, but I would go with a Pazon now as I like there specs & quality better.

You could also reassemble the points plate with more care, and once it's set up correctly it will probably function well. The points really don't wear out very fast as long as the condensers are good, they handle very little current. Locktite is your friend.

Good luck,

C-ya, Jer
 

p400

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Cleaned up the points plate.
lubed the advance mechanism.
installed point plate and reset points.
guess at timing setting.
lubed and installed new tach (rev counter) cable.
P11 started on first kick.......back on the road tomorrow.
 

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p400

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Had a great ride today, about 80 miles of back roads.
Everything was normal with ignition, good start with one kick.
I feel a little guilty not splitting the primary and putting on a timing disc, but my guess at setting points plate is working very well.
No pinging, no back fire, runs strong
 

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I should also mention that one of the main reasons to give up on your OEM points & condensers is to cure the problems caused by the worn out & faulty mechanical advance mechanism. These do give trouble, usually because of lack of lubrication. Symptoms are similar to some carb issues. Mostly irregular idle speeds.

C-ya, Jer


jerrykap said:
I've put Boyer's in P11's with no problems, but I would go with a Pazon now as I like there specs & quality better.

You could also reassemble the points plate with more care, and once it's set up correctly it will probably function well. The points really don't wear out very fast as long as the condensers are good, they handle very little current. Locktite is your friend.

Good luck,

C-ya, Jer
 

p400

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jerrykap said:
I should also mention that one of the main reasons to give up on your OEM points & condensers is to cure the problems caused by the worn out & faulty mechanical advance mechanism. These do give trouble, usually because of lack of lubrication. Symptoms are similar to some carb issues. Mostly irregular idle speeds.C-ya, Jer
jerrykap said:
I've put Boyer's in P11's with no problems, but I would go with a Pazon now as I like there specs & quality better.Good luck,C-ya, Jer
Yes , thanks, I am concerned. The mechanical advance looks delicate.
Pazon does not appear to be supply ignitions right now, I don't know about future.
I like the no extra box (to fool with mounts) of Trispark..but all the manufacturers (Boyer, Pazon, Sparx, Pazon, Wassell, Trispark) appear to be offering the same technology.
 
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Thanks for posting this here also Texasslick, although it is relevant to early commandos it is perhaps more relevant to all 60s non magneto bikes. The Boyer was easy to fit, I used a degree wheel to set the ignition timing. The only issue I subsequently found was, as described in my earlier post, that the distance from the points drive shaft to the body of the points plate is shorter than on a Commando with timing cover points arrangement. It is therefore necessary to space out the trigger plate ( at least using a Boyer) to avoid the rotor fouling the soldered joints. I fioed the highest blobs down and fitted a thick paper gasket behind the plate.
 

p400

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Ele, I lubed at nine different locations with one drop of machine oil (actually BradPenn 20/50)......and evidently this is too much.
you cant get there without pulling the points plate, just cell photo current location and sharpie mark and I am sure you can get it back it place.
Bottom points plate screw might require you tape it to a short screwdriver (or driver insert) to get it started back.
But the left pipe needs to come off, this happens pretty quick.
I did receive my new TriSpark, I have 6v , low ohm coils ready..........but bike is running too good to work on right now.
 

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p400

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I ordered a new Tri-Spark from Clubman Racing and received it in one day. TriSpark was recommended by my local P11 shop, Terry Parker, for ease of install, reliability.
One of my reasons was to get the ignition as accurate as possible to minimize P11 vibrations.
P11 distributor is clockwise rotation, like Atlas and Triumph.
Appears I need to search and purchase 5K plug caps and being as anal as I am about appearance, not sure if I can find Champion 5K plug caps.
 

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elefantrider

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p400 said:
Ele, I lubed at nine different locations with one drop of machine oil (actually BradPenn 20/50)......and evidently this is too much.
you cant get there without pulling the points plate, just cell photo current location and sharpie mark and I am sure you can get it back it place.
Bottom points plate screw might require you tape it to a short screwdriver (or driver insert) to get it started back.
But the left pipe needs to come off, this happens pretty quick.
I did receive my new TriSpark, I have 6v , low ohm coils ready..........but bike is running too good to work on right now.

Thanks P400. Will remove the plate and hit it with a good spray lubricant and wipe off the excess. Here are a couple sprays I think would work well and last a while in this application: WD40 Lithium spray which could be messy or Dupont Teflon chain lube which dries quick and is supposed to work as good as lithium grease.



 

p400

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elefantrider said:
Thanks P400. Will remove the plate and hit it with a good spray lubricant and wipe off the excess. Here are a couple sprays I think would work well and last a while in this application: WD40 Lithium spray which could be messy or Dupont Teflon chain lube which dries quick and is supposed to work as good as lithium grease.

I think either product would be fine. it is possible, with spray, to shoot it in under a condenser. you might remove the spark plugs and have somebody kick bike thru as you spray the rotating advance unit , not too much tho.
 

p400

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Ebay shows 5K NGK spark plug caps and 10K Champion spark plug caps.
Tri spark instructions say 5k, so I ordered a couple NGK.
I am not sure how 10k caps would affect the TriSpark or performance at this time.
 

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p400

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Last Friday ride I experienced a lot of spit and sput for 25 miles.
As tho the low speed jets were plugged up.
No spit on acceleration, just on level, steady ride.
So this was my motivation for Amal clean and revise, along with install of TriSpark ignition.
Pulled out all of the points and advance unit.
 

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p400

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Trial fitted the TriSpark plate. I found the supplied bolt (1/4 BSF Allen) for the new rotor was too long by about 3 threads, so shortened 3 threads.
Cut the two wires (black/yellow and black/white) shown going to each point set, fitted supplied bullet connections to tie into the wire shown coming out of the TriSpark.
 

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Ill be watching... Seriously considering a tri-spark for my current build. Even though Ive been a die hard points guy for years.
 

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Tri Spark installed , battery hooked up, using a pair of vintage 6V coils (48mm), rewired as needed.
Did not plug the kill button back onto the coils....not sure if it can be used.
TriSpark red LED lights up when timing is close....or maybe right on...but they say close , use timing light.
Still need tank installed, seat, exhaust, and primary cover.
 

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p400

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Got tank, pipe, and seat on.....left off primary cover....fired up the P11 with new TriSpark!
Since I cleaned and revised the Amal 930 concentrics, there was some tuning required to get idle.
Hooked up a 12v timing light to check advance and find it is set at about 25º BTDC max at 3000rpm.
Close to TDC at idle speeds.
The owners manual lists 32º BTDC or 8.69mm or .343"
Champion N4 plugs.
 

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