Tickler timing (2014)

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Stillreel

Stillreel

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I used to be I would press the tickler on the carb until I saw gas just seeping out the top. Now that I've adjusted the float bowls, this doesn't happen any more. There's gas in the bowls but I don't want to flood the engine.

Any guesses as to how long it should take to get to the correct levels? 5,10, 15, 20 seconds .... ?
 
Pressing float down only needs to fill a tiny chamber in the pilot circuit to give the richer intake first kick start, so no need to see fuel weeps outside but its a unique skill for AMAL users to acquire by triil error with the humidity in the air, phase of the moon mood and consistency of riders counting cadence plus the actual float level set per how much the ticklers are set in their barely fixed mounts. I came to count to five on AMALs to avoid gas smell/wet finger or floor and sometimes actaully works that way. In my current case I never measured float level, just expedient bumping seat till ran great but means I have to hold one tickler a bit longer than the other.
 
Stillreel said:
I used to be I would press the tickler on the carb until I saw gas just seeping out the top. Now that I've adjusted the float bowls, this doesn't happen any more
Any guesses as to how long it should take to get to the correct levels? 5,10, 15, 20 seconds .... ?
Click to expand...

If the fuel doesn't flow from the tickler, then it won't be reaching the correct level, especially if you've been holding the ticklers down for 20 seconds or more and nothing happens.

Depressing the ticker should push the float down far enough to raise the float needle off its seating and hold it there, fuel should then continue to flood into the float chamber until the tickler is released.
If that isn't happening, then the ticklers probably aren't moving the floats at all.
Either you've set the floats too low, or the tickler pins need adjusting to compensate for the apparent lower positions of the floats.
 
The tickler pin is hollow, I had the same problem but could not get the pin to pull out at all, so I screwed in a self tapper and now have an easily adjustable tickler pin.
 
L.A.B. said:
... or the tickler pins need adjusting to compensate for the apparent lower positions of the floats.
Click to expand...

I was wondering if it may be the pins. Both tickler pins have very splayed ends an I thought that might be the issue. I'll try to bend them back to vertical and see if it helps.
 
Also; while dealing with a fouling plugs issue, I determined the floats were far too high (.05 above the bowl). So I reset the valve cup and now this tickler issue has surfaced. Its always something. In a good way. I'm dialing it in slowly.

BC
 
Stillreel said:
L.A.B. said:
... or the tickler pins need adjusting to compensate for the apparent lower positions of the floats.
Click to expand...

I was wondering if it may be the pins. Both tickler pins have very splayed ends an I thought that might be the issue. I'll try to bend them back to vertical and see if it helps.
Click to expand...

No, I wouldn't do that, as reducing the splay will likely cause the pin to jam inside the tickler drilling as it returns to its 'off' position.

If you need to extend the tickler, do it by twisting the tickler pin out of the 'button' (this is assuming the ticklers are the later extended type?).
 
L.A.B. said:
Stillreel said:
L.A.B. said:
... or the tickler pins need adjusting to compensate for the apparent lower positions of the floats.
Click to expand...

I was wondering if it may be the pins. Both tickler pins have very splayed ends an I thought that might be the issue. I'll try to bend them back to vertical and see if it helps.
Click to expand...

No, I wouldn't do that, as reducing the splay will likely cause the pin to jam inside the tickler drilling as it returns to its 'off' position.

If you need to extend the tickler, do it by twisting the tickler pin out of the 'button' (this is assuming the ticklers are the later extended type?).
Click to expand...
The splay is what also holds the whole thing together. If you manage to take that splay completely out , with out managing to break off little pieces with your plier, the whole assembly will spring out of the carb and onto the floor.
 
Pressing float down only needs to fill a tiny chamber in the pilot circuit to give the richer intake first kick start, so no need to see fuel weeps outside but its a unique skill for AMAL users to acquire by trial error with the humidity in the air, phase of the moon mood and consistency of riders counting cadence plus the actual float level set per how much the ticklers are set in their barely fixed mounts. I came to count to five on AMALs to avoid gas smell/wet finger or floor and sometimes actually works that way. In my current case I never measured float level, just expedient bumping seat till ran great but means I have to hold one tickler a bit longer than the other.

Ideally set floats so each carb gives best idle with 1.5 turns pilot air jet then diddle ticklers to match, if ya don't mess up the tin toy like holders. Should only need to tickle on pure cold starts but after that should start first kick w/o any throttle on first try and cracked throttle need try and stop and rethink situation if that don't work, like key left off, taps not on or a wire knocked loose wipeing off or water in bowls etc.
 
Stillreel said:
I used to be I would press the tickler on the carb until I saw gas just seeping out the top. Now that I've adjusted the float bowls, this doesn't happen any more.
Click to expand...

Drop one of the bowls, push the tickler down, and note how far into the float chamber the roll pin protrudes. Mine jamb down far enough that they'll come close to completely sinking the floats to the bottom. Methinks, for the ticklers to not work, you have the float level adjusted way too low.
 
hobot said:
Pressing float down only needs to fill a tiny chamber in the pilot circuit to give the richer intake first kick start, so no need to see fuel weeps outside

I came to count to five on AMALs to avoid gas smell/wet finger
Click to expand...

Yes, but, Stillreel appears to be dealing with a situation resulting from float height adjustment where NO fuel seems to be entering the float chambers-otherwise the ticklers would certainly be expected to raise the fuel to the level of the tickler overflows after 20 seconds or more.
 
Same thing happened to me when I set up the floats to the Amal dimension, that is the ticklers would not push on the floats because they were too low. Moved them up to 2mm below the top with the Bushman method and it's fine now.
 
LAB:

There is definitely fuel in the float chambers; and I believe they will fill due to gravity as soon as the petcocks are opened (float down, valve up). The floats are now correctly adjusted to 0.065" below rim +/- a wee bit. My understanding after reading Bushmans's guide is that the fuel flow to the chamber stops once fuel lifts the float (must be less than 1/2 the bowl). The tickler is then used to fill the chamber over the brim and out the ticker opening for a fuel rich start.

http://www.jba.bc.ca/Bushmans%20Carb%20 ... html#FLOAT

My issue is that I used to be able to see fuel seeping from the tickler, indicating a full float bowl. I don't see than now and this am, had difficulty starting. I took the bowls off and both were full to the top. Why, says I, isn't fuel comin' out the top?

((((Having said that I had difficulty starting, I have massively complicated matters by introducing another change: lowered the needle one notch.)))

You know, sometimes I'd rather be sailing.

BC
 
How about this: (!!)

Perhaps the Previous (flippin') Owner swapped out the carbs with a Dominator or Atlas. The floats in those carbs are .08" above the rim and therefore use a much shorter tickler length.

My ah-HA! moment for the day.
 
Stillreel said:
There is definitely fuel in the float chambers; and I believe they will fill due to gravity as soon as the petcocks are opened (float down, valve up). The floats are now correctly adjusted to 0.065" below rim +/- a wee bit. My understanding after reading Bushmans's guide is that the fuel flow to the chamber stops once fuel lifts the float (must be less than 1/2 the bowl).
Click to expand...

According to the Amal info. when the floats are set correctly, the fuel level will be:"0.21" plus or minus 0.040" below the top edge of the float bowl." which is more than 'half-full'.

http://amalcarb.co.uk/optimising-mark-1 ... uel-levels


Stillreel said:
((((Having said that I had difficulty starting, I have massively complicated matters by introducing another change: lowered the needle one notch.)))
Click to expand...

Theoretically, altering the needle height shouldn't affect starting.
 
I have replaced the roll pins in the ticklers before for just this reason.
If your float height proves to be in the best running position, making an adjustment in this area is not out of scope, although certainly not common. Flaring the ends is the finicky part. I would surely validate float height first.

Although float height is important, I don't think it is as exacting as people make it out to be.
 
Stillreel said:
L.A.B. said:
... or the tickler pins need adjusting to compensate for the apparent lower positions of the floats.
Click to expand...

I was wondering if it may be the pins. Both tickler pins have very splayed ends an I thought that might be the issue. I'll try to bend them back to vertical and see if it helps.
Click to expand...

That might assist them falling out. I soldered mine and let the solder build up effectively lengthening the ticklers on my 850. I had economy problems with my 850 and in the end I adjusted the needle seats up a few thou, effectively lowering the float and level. I then had the problem where the ticklers would not touch the float. I don't have chokes on the 850, so "flooding" with the ticklers is necessary in my case. When its really cold down here [ 12 degrees C in Paihia last night ] I have to tickle several times to get going. ] [ that was just a dig at you guys who have to ride in the White Stuff ]
 
The float levels were always set too high,from new,but the tickler pin was set to work with that.

If you lower the float level,of course you have to pull the pin out further.If you pull the pin out too far,it can cause flooding when the engine runs.
 
kommando said:
The tickler pin is hollow, I had the same problem but could not get the pin to pull out at all, so I screwed in a self tapper and now have an easily adjustable tickler pin.
Click to expand...
I tried this on mine tonight, but I couldn't find a suitable screw.

Then a light bulb went off in my head, and I tried putting the red extension tube from a can of WD-40 inside the tickler. It fit perfectly, with enough friction to hold solidly in place. Then I clipped it off to the right length, and Bob's your uncle. (And of course polyethylene is safe inside a carburetor -- they make gas cans out of the stuff).

(Yes, I know the last post was four years ago, but I found this thread in a search when I needed it and future people may also).
 
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