Things I can improve upon when I rebuild my bike

So the Mk3 is about down to the frame (although I might have to cut the frame apart to get the air box out, but I digress) and I've followed a thread about adding a reed valve to the crankcase, and toward that vein, has anyone compiled a list of things you should do to your Commando to make it better while you are rebuilding it? Fortunately the quality of the machining inside seems to be better than the finish on the outside, which of course is damning with faint praise! So, one and all, chime in on the things that need changing. I already have a 4 pole starter (HD parts) and a Rita. I like the idea of the reed valve and I'm going to do that too. I'm exploring the resleeve of the front master cylinder and I'm going stainless for the caliper pistons. So lets hear all the good ideas.

Let's see, swoosh dave will say to paint it yellow, hobot will say to put in rear rump links a drouin and apehangers.

I would mod the oil tank, update the amals (new premires are $420 shipped), full gearbox rebuild (bearings and bushes RGM has a kit for $150),
I would reconcider the rita, it is afterall a Lucas product, also go with a solid state regulator, posibly rewire negative ground.
A decent head steady would alo be nice. I'm sure there are many other things I am missing.

Besides being able to use some electronics which are incompatible with + ground, what does ground conversion accomplish? AS far as oil tank conversion, is this about beefing up the fasteners or something else? Can the RITA be bench tested?

actually the rita is a good solid ignition BUT it does not play well with a twin tower HD type coil. it is a long dwell system so you should stay with stock type coils

bwolfie said:

I would reconcider the rita, it is afterall a Lucas product,

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The only thing you need to do to improve it, is put it together properly.
High compression pistons & high lift cam are nice.
Front brake upgrade is a must.
Reed valves, Electronic ignition, belt drive, jap carbs, funny head steadies, lumpy seat, etc. only if you feel you must.

Shortly after I put on my sleeved front brake MC, I switched to braided stainless (with a plastic coating) brake lines. I found it to be a good investment. FWIW

I think i would concentrate on think that are not easily added on. Thing like belt drives ignition systems and head steadies can all be added on later. Even the gearbox is relative easy to do at anytime. That's not to say you should wait but if there is a need to concider because of time constraints or money, they can wait.

Frame related items, like swing arm bushing and headstock should be considered along with wheel bearings, rear Isolastics, and engine internals. Frame painting and wiring harness is another thing to think about if needed.

Forgot to mention, the layshaft bearing, very important.

If you have the money, send it to CNW for a full on rebuild/upgrade. If that's not feasible, the list is long and expensive when it comes to upgrades. Just remember, in the day, a stock Commando was a very desirable bike.

JimC has it about right if you have about $30 grand to spend. Otherwise, replace everything you can afford, especially all the o-ring seals with real seals, like the gearbox, just send it and the tach drive to Phil at Fair Spares. Superblends in the crankcase. Modern sealers on the flanges (Permatex Hylomar Blue Racing Formula) and gaskets as required. For sure new bearings in the gearbox, especially the layshaft bearing (Hemmings ball, no adjusting). New sealed wheel bearings, Walridge has the double rows for about $35 with no machining of the hub. Complete head rebuild with bronze bushings and new valves (Memphis Motorwerks about $800). New pistons and rings if old. Bottom end rebuild kit if necessary (about $800 from RGM or Norvil). Swing arm/spindle upgrade if necessary. Headsteady and other frame tightening items if you need that, new isolastics and vernier adjustments, various options there. EI is real nice and not expensive (Pazon). Electronics and lights I'll leave up to you. I got away with about $8K, but am still looking at belt drive and Sparx alternator.

Dave
69S

as some have said. do a good solid rebuild on the engine. if you want a rider LEAVE IT STOCK don't bump up the compression or add a non stock camshaft. fix the breather system, do the tach drive seal mod. same on the gearbox just use the NJ306 roller bearing on the layshaft and the MK3 already has a proper seal on the kick start shaft. I am NOT fond of a belt drive in a MK3 as it need's to stay wet. spend a few dollars on a good parts and service manual along with the INOA tech digest.

bill said:

actually the rita is a good solid ignition BUT it does not play well with a twin tower HD type coil. it is a long dwell system so you should stay with stock type coils

bwolfie said:

I would reconcider the rita, it is afterall a Lucas product,

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Nothing wrong with the Rita. Spend your money elsewhere.

I'll take notes as well as I was going to post the same thing.

Is positive ground really that important? Or that difficult to do, for that matter?

Adventurer96 said:

I'll take notes as well as I was going to post the same thing.

Is positive ground really that important? Or that difficult to do, for that matter?

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changing it is important only if you want to use modern electronic stuff. it is not that hard to do IF you change a few things. a modern regulator-rectifier and most EI systems can go either way with the proper wiring changes and the rita is one of them. you CAN NOT use the old rectifier or zener diode. BUT if you do this PLEASE make sure to let whoever works on it next knows this was done.