- Joined
- Apr 22, 2020
- Messages
- 3,054
Modified Norton P11
Motor was quiet, oil looked clear, running great, but then I struck gold again. Gold like JSM bronze lifter block gold that is. Metalic green oil when drained.
The motor got a little noisy just as I pulled onto the HWY and gave it the beans. (Found out later that the grub screw on the drive side cylinder backed out 1/8th".) Sounded like a valve lash adjustment was way out. Kept running, but I'm sure the lifter block is not looking too good anymore. Hard to say if the soft block could damage the cam, but it probably could. Haven't started it again to see if running the screw back in would reposition (lift) the block up high enough for cam clearance. Probably not though. More than likely it would tighten the lifter block up lowered in the lifter bore.
Will be kicking the motor over to see if there is excessive resistance with the grub screw tightened up in the lifter block to see if it is still a ticking time bomb. Yes, the screw had Loctite on it, and dried for 48 hours before I ever started the motor the first time. I didn't want to be tearing into this motor so soon. Actually, didn't ever want to be tearing into this motor again.
By the way, before the peanut gallery starts telling me "subliminally" that I can't follow directions and should not own tools, the same thing happened to one of the Norton racers Storm42. Check the Post "Racing 2022" page #37 for Storm42's brief details about the grub screw coming loose.
I was not racing, but I was in the push stage of the motor break in. I was not treating the motor with kid gloves anymore. Really wish I'd checked the grub screws again before taking off for the ride. I checked them two rides back and all was good, but I had not started pushing the RPMs yet.
Again, I believe radiused stock tappets would be trouble free on a street ride with a JSM cam in it. Think about it before you lays down your money.
Side note: The Molnar crank with the MAP long rods and short skirt pistons was perfectly balanced at higher RPM. Smooth as a solid mounted Norton twin can be on the HWY and everywhere else. Better than it has ever been. Didn't get over 85mph though, cuz I knew something was off when I heard the ticking near idle RPM just before getting on the HWY entrance ramp.
Oh well, guess I'll be doing more yard work this summer than riding.
Motor was quiet, oil looked clear, running great, but then I struck gold again. Gold like JSM bronze lifter block gold that is. Metalic green oil when drained.
The motor got a little noisy just as I pulled onto the HWY and gave it the beans. (Found out later that the grub screw on the drive side cylinder backed out 1/8th".) Sounded like a valve lash adjustment was way out. Kept running, but I'm sure the lifter block is not looking too good anymore. Hard to say if the soft block could damage the cam, but it probably could. Haven't started it again to see if running the screw back in would reposition (lift) the block up high enough for cam clearance. Probably not though. More than likely it would tighten the lifter block up lowered in the lifter bore.
Will be kicking the motor over to see if there is excessive resistance with the grub screw tightened up in the lifter block to see if it is still a ticking time bomb. Yes, the screw had Loctite on it, and dried for 48 hours before I ever started the motor the first time. I didn't want to be tearing into this motor so soon. Actually, didn't ever want to be tearing into this motor again.
By the way, before the peanut gallery starts telling me "subliminally" that I can't follow directions and should not own tools, the same thing happened to one of the Norton racers Storm42. Check the Post "Racing 2022" page #37 for Storm42's brief details about the grub screw coming loose.
I was not racing, but I was in the push stage of the motor break in. I was not treating the motor with kid gloves anymore. Really wish I'd checked the grub screws again before taking off for the ride. I checked them two rides back and all was good, but I had not started pushing the RPMs yet.
Again, I believe radiused stock tappets would be trouble free on a street ride with a JSM cam in it. Think about it before you lays down your money.
Side note: The Molnar crank with the MAP long rods and short skirt pistons was perfectly balanced at higher RPM. Smooth as a solid mounted Norton twin can be on the HWY and everywhere else. Better than it has ever been. Didn't get over 85mph though, cuz I knew something was off when I heard the ticking near idle RPM just before getting on the HWY entrance ramp.
Oh well, guess I'll be doing more yard work this summer than riding.