Tank studs: which side to mount?

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dear All,
I am just mounting the studs on the front of my tank and I realized they have a longer and shorter thread. Now, I am wondering which is the right direction to mount them_ should the longer or the shorter thread go into the tank?
Thank you!
 
D/t 5 rubber washers for the stud to stick through best to leave long end sticking down. One of the few nuts I don't want locktited nor nyloc'd for tedious annoyance to take on and off more than most other cycles. Don't over tighten tank down, just over snug enough they ain't gonna vibe loose.
 
Thank you Hobot!

hobot said:
D/t 5 rubber washers for the stud to stick through best to leave long end sticking down. One of the few nuts I don't want locktited nor nyloc'd for tedious annoyance to take on and off more than most other cycles. Don't over tighten tank down, just over snug enough they ain't gonna vibe loose.
 
Ugh, I've yet to install the rear tank mounts on my IS or Roadster tanks to try to remember not to tug to hard on it by knees or hands but never had an issue even crashing badling on them. Will get my act together on that end soon.
 
I used a standard nut and then another as a lock nut to get rid of that hateful nyloc. It also serves to lock the reflector bracket in place without putting undue strain on the tank or the wings which I have supported with a piece of 1/4" AL.

Tank studs: which side to mount?


Dave
69S
 
why 'hateful' nyloc? what's bad with that?

DogT said:
I used a standard nut and then another as a lock nut to get rid of that hateful nyloc. It also serves to lock the reflector bracket in place without putting undue strain on the tank or the wings which I have supported with a piece of 1/4" AL.

Dave
69S
 
bwolfie said:
I have nylocks on all 4 of mine, no problems.



Me too...no problems...1/2" socket for the front studs and a 1/2" combo wrench for the rears and they are all Nylocks.
 
Duh ya could JBW em on and then remove with heat and impact no problemo but for me don't like to deal with the nut resistance after clamp force removed and don't carry around socket set in road tool kit. If ya need nyloc's to hold tank nuts on then something must be wrong, but its nicer to look at while removing and set aside while servicing w/o tank in the way. Purely a matter of tastes or originality. Peel will get chrome dome nuts after studs trimmed to suit.
 
I just find the nylocs a pain to get on and off. Much easier to run regular nuts on with my fingers and then run the lock nut on. Besides I like the way they lock the reflector bracket in place. The tank is one of the things that comes off most. Notice I replaced those donuts that keep falling off and rolling across the garage floor under the car with a cut up zori that stays in place while I put the tank in on.

Dave
69S
 
I used the rubber mounts from my old head steady. Correct thread for the tank, nice spacing, rubber cushioning, and fewer parts - just need a fender washer, lock washer and nut or fender washer and nyloc nut.
 
I agree with BillT, I run the rubber mounts front and rear. The Interstate tanks like to crack around the front mounts, and this will help. I also put a light coat of anti-sieze on the threads, because if you need to get the rubber mounts out for any reason, it can be tough if they twist off. I've found the Interstate tanks shudder a bit more at idle with the rubber mounts on the front when lower on fuel, but that can be made a little better by squeezing a piece of closed cell foam on each side of the front of the tank to keep it from rocking. If you are going to use a rubber mount on the front, some aftermarket rubbers have longer studs on them, so measure and trim if you need to.
 
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