tail lamp question

MikeG

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I'm in the process of returning my 71 Roadsters tail lamp to stock. I've had a modified aluminum one on but want to put the stock fiberglass one back on. Ordered a new housing # 06-1122 and bracket 062038 from Old Britts. I have several cracked/broken housings and an old beat up bracket and trial fitted them to see how things go. Looks like nothing wants to line up quite right and I can see the reason for the broken housings. I know I can't tell much till I have new undamaged parts in hand, but is this a particular sore spot on these bikes? I've seen a few housings at swap meets and on Ebay but they all seem to have the same damage, a stress crack in the spine where it passes over the frame loop and cracks at the base of the lamp unit itself. Also, is there supposed to be any welting between the fender and housing?
 

Tornado

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I suspect these tend to break easy even without a proper re-end accident. Been a few times when my foot has clobbered it getting on/off bike. The tail lamp bracketery also provides support to the rear mudguard, stops it from oscillating around. So there may be some fatigue element going on with the bracket metal.
 

Graeme Mitchell

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I'm in the process of returning my 71 Roadsters tail lamp to stock. I've had a modified aluminum one on but want to put the stock fiberglass one back on. Ordered a new housing # 06-1122 and bracket 062038 from Old Britts. I have several cracked/broken housings and an old beat up bracket and trial fitted them to see how things go. Looks like nothing wants to line up quite right and I can see the reason for the broken housings. I know I can't tell much till I have new undamaged parts in hand, but is this a particular sore spot on these bikes? I've seen a few housings at swap meets and on Ebay but they all seem to have the same damage, a stress crack in the spine where it passes over the frame loop and cracks at the base of the lamp unit itself. Also, is there supposed to be any welting between the fender and housing?
just ordered a replacement tail lamp. The original was cracked across the top two "set in" nuts. The fixing arrangement does look a bit flimsy!
 
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I might suggest you get the metal U bracket fitted snugly before fitting the tail lamp body. I think the body helps to support the number plate assy as well so yes, it does get strain put on it. My mudguard on my 850 broke on the last rally because the front screw had come out.

Dereck
 

MikeG

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I might suggest you get the metal U bracket fitted snugly before fitting the tail lamp body. I think the body helps to support the number plate assy as well so yes, it does get strain put on it. My mudguard on my 850 broke on the last rally because the front screw had come out.

Dereck
thanks-I'm also thinking that I should remove the rear wheel and loosen the front mudgaurd mounts as well to give myself some "wiggle room" as it were?
 
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Definitely get the rear fender mount in order before installing housing. It's not real sturdy, but I like the bullet taillight lens vs later square. My original housing gave me failures with the set in nuts pulling out of the housing.
I've decided to go with a 60's Triumph polished aluminum housing instead. Did you have an Old Britts taillight prior? I'd be interested in that for my 850 if you want to sell.
CNW offer a nice license plate bracket. My '71 never had one for a US plate.
 

concours

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I added a layer of inner tube, trimmed to fit, in the BRI parking lot one year. Taillight has been fine ever since.
 

RoadScholar

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The key, in my experience, to mounting parts is to do what it takes to make the fitment stress free. This may require some bending and/or opening the corresponding hole. Parts that project from the frame as subject to resonance caused by variable frequency harmonics generated by the drive train components. The ISOs do a lot to diminish the transmitted energy levels, but any mechanical part that rotates produces vibrations at some RPM.

Best.
 

MikeG

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Definitely get the rear fender mount in order before installing housing. It's not real sturdy, but I like the bullet taillight lens vs later square. My original housing gave me failures with the set in nuts pulling out of the housing.
I've decided to go with a 60's Triumph polished aluminum housing instead. Did you have an Old Britts taillight prior? I'd be interested in that for my 850 if you want to sell.
CNW offer a nice license plate bracket. My '71 never had one for a US plate.
Mine is similar to OldBritts, but it's one I bought off Ebay and modified. I had to build a couple of plastic shims to get it high enough to clear the frame loop. Functional but don't put the microscope on it.
 

Time Warp

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Not that you would buy one but a stock part.

22
RUBBER PAD 1 1/2" x 3/4"
in stock
part-no: 06.4220

If I can get a rubber cushion under any of those parts in general on any old bike I do.
 

batrider

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I had the metal license plate mount break at least twice and repaired it with welding. Finally went to the CNW license plate holder and no problems since. It is much sturdier. It is normal for the tail light to jump around madly when idling.
Russ
 
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I had to araldite the captive nut back into the f/glass bracket on my 750. On my 850, I slotted the holes at the front of the rear guard to make it easier to get to the horn. It now can pivot around that rear mounting without buggering around with the rear lamp assy.
Dereck

Jumping around madly. Ya got to be kidding. Thrashing around is more accurate. I dont idle my bike nor ride it slowly. Living in the country, free from traffic lights, open road. a breeze.

I do remember one time I had fun with a mate. He was standing behind my bike so I started it and gave it a quick rev while on the centre stand. He just about got pushed over.
 
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I also had to araldite the captive nuts in my 750.
Wjen I refitted my rear fender, I initially tightened the forward bolts only to find that the tail light wouldn’t match up without a lot of force. I had to loosen forward bolts and fit one bolt of the rear u clamp as high as possible, fit the tail light then tighten forward bolts.
Makes you wonder how on Earth they ever put them together n the first place!
 
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I put one on my 850 cuz I think they are way cooler. I had to do the same after a year.

I agree. Your bike looks a treat with its cool lines and alloy tank.

Mines just a workhorse with a few modern adaptions. JRB forks probably next [ to go with the new rear Ikons ] , then riding lessons [ ha ha ].

Dereck

Dave, will we see you in South Canterbury next month?
 

zefer

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I put one on my 850 cuz I think they are way cooler. I had to do the same after a year.

I agree. Your bike looks a treat with its cool lines and alloy tank.

Mines just a workhorse with a few modern adaptions. JRB forks probably next [ to go with the new rear Ikons ] , then riding lessons [ ha ha ].

Dereck

Dave, will we see you in South Canterbury next month?
 

gortnipper

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I put one on my 850 cuz I think they are way cooler. I had to do the same after a year.

I agree. Your bike looks a treat with its cool lines and alloy tank.

Mines just a workhorse with a few modern adaptions. JRB forks probably next [ to go with the new rear Ikons ] , then riding lessons [ ha ha ].

Dereck

Dave, will we see you in South Canterbury next month?
Yep, meeting up with Iain in Hamilton on the way down. And then with Murry at Murchison.

Alloy tank is not making this trip. Pics in another thread tomorrow.
 
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