Ta~DAH!

All done. Started on the second try. (First try was quite the adventure). Appraisal, safety, insurance, license then the fun starts. Still some details to look after but soon. Very soon.

BEFORE


DURING
http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa4 ... /Frame.jpg





AFTER



BC

Congrates, looks like my Bumble Bee Trixie but with a Corbin seat.
if like mine it takes about 1000 miles to dial in all the tensions & fluid levels plus shake out my errors or faulty components to redo while chasing after retorques or new oil weeps. Can take about that long to bed in isolastics if slightly on tight side to begin with. Worry intially about cam run it, so keep her spun up good for 10 min or more, then finish on hwy if not having to dilly dally engine below 2000. Don't make a mess learning the oil draining methods.

You should be very happy with the out come, now just ride it and enjoy it to the MAX, fix up any little problems as you go, I was lucky and had no problems from the first strat up till now just over 18 months now and 10,000 miles, just a few oil seeps around the rocker covers but have come new silcon gaskets to put on and see if the are as good as everone says they are.

Enjoy your bike

Ashley

Is that one of the Canadian aluminum Roadster tanks? Something looks odd about the logo. Do you have another view?

swooshdave said:

Is that one of the Canadian aluminum Roadster tanks? Something looks odd about the logo. Do you have another view?

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To me it's not the logo, it looks like the front of the tank is too high and/or the rear too low...like maybe the foam pad got put on the wrong end.

Picky picky picky. OK. I'll level out the tank. What I've done is used a 10" section of large diameter tube insulation and wrapped it around the centre bar. I've also used a couple of large rubber grommets at the forward tank points. I'll work on the "look" after I can ensure its running properly. At least there's no complaints about the colour. My wife preferred the primer.

I'm very sorry and pretty thougthtless considering I'm trying to get mine running again and your is.

The bike looks great.

Why did she like the primer better - matte finish look? There's a local powder coating guy who rides a Harley clone - not a single shiny bit on it anywhere. It's either brushed metal (aluminum or stainless) or a matte powder coat, oh and the tires, but those are sort of matte finish naturally.

I'd flip the front fender right-side-forward (with the bracket at the lower/rear location)

other than that, I'd sure you'll have a rash by the time it's legal for road use!

Saw some things in your picture of the clutch pack.
I'll assume the washer tab is bent up on backside of nut.
Actuator rod seal is a good idea to limit oil getting from gearbox into primary. Contaminates plates.
I'm seeing quite a bit of the teeth of the drum. If clutch pretty stiff you may want to try an OldBritts shim to bring clutch pack height closer to edge of circlip groove.

Lots of work bringing it to this point. You're almost there.

Bob

rx7171 said:

Saw some things in your picture of the clutch pack.
I'll assume the washer tab is bent up on backside of nut.
Actuator rod seal is a good idea to limit oil getting from gearbox into primary. Contaminates plates.
I'm seeing quite a bit of the teeth of the drum. If clutch pretty stiff you may want to try an OldBritts shim to bring clutch pack height closer to edge of circlip groove.

Lots of work bringing it to this point. You're almost there.

Bob

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also learned here that the tab washer is too soft and compresses and makes the clutch nut loose, happened on my bike twice (with the same washer). The fix per the board (comnoz IIRC) is a belleville washer, had to buy a dozen to get one but if you need one I'll sent it at cost plus postage, about $4-

Good point about leaving the soft steel 'lock tab' washer in the trash. I just put in a regular harder steel flat washer as works a treat on my 2 Combats. While nit picking, might want to re-route the front area cables to avoid tank and stem paint rubbing on the fly. The tank cushions can be fudged to lay nice against seat and spinal tube. If not running ATF in the gear box then DynoDave's David Comeau's clutch rod end seal is good idea to keep clutch plate maintaince to minimum. AFT in the chain case also improves this and does better job of chain cleaning-cooling too. Chains don't need lube in same way or purpose as bushes or bearings. Easiest most damaging novice error, is to take off with a bit too tight tension in triplex chain that then heats up to tight up enough to bend shafts and crush bushes. If clutch basket can be wiggled some by hand then suspect gear box bushes are toasting up on yours, which is one of many reasons not to have sweet swift snicks up or down the gears.

Thanks for the observations.

Hobot: Triplex chain tension is a concern but it seems measurement is subjective. There is the prescribed amount of play but how much pressure does one apply to test? I'm inclined to agree that initially, slightly less is better until things get settled in.

BC

"I've always found it difficult to measure the total up-and-down play of the chain, because you have to wiggle the chain up and down somehow and also measure how much it's moving, all through a small hole. An easier way is to measure a tight chain compared to a slack chain, since this is half the total up-and-down play. To do this, make two marks 3/16" apart [not 3/8"] on the end of a stick or piece of paper. Then put the bike on the centerstand and the gearbox in 4th, and lie on the ground next to the primary.

Now, if you move the rear tire in the forward direction with your foot, the bottom of the chain tightens and you get all the slack on top. If you move the rear tire in the backward direction, all the slack is on the bottom and the top is tight. So pick out some feature on the chain (top of link, bottom of link, rivet, etc.) , and compare it to the two marks as you move the wheel back and forth. You can easily see how much it's moving compared with the two marks and loosen the chain appropriately. (BUT DON'T OVERSHOOT! If you get it TOO loose, you have to tighten it and start all over again).

Once the tight chain/slack chain play is 3/16", you know the total up and down play is 3/8". I also try to check it later when the engine is really hot. You can do this at the side of the road, and there should be at least SOME play then, or it needs to be a little looser.
Mike Taglieri"

I would err on the loose side, it really doesn't hurt anything unless it's hitting something. I think Mike is saying to get the 3/8" play with no pushing on the chain, just slackness. It shifts much better on the loose side because it's not binding the gearbox and apparently it tightens up when things warm up, I don't understand that part though.

Dave
69S

AWESOME!

You realise sending me all your motorcycles for keeps , and you sitting in front of TV & drinking beer , would be a lot less stressfull for you all .

I also try to check it later when the engine is really hot.

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It only takes One Over Tight When Hot event to trash bushes and shafts. Best to error on the too loose side taking it easy till fully hot then do the differential slack setting and recheck when stone cold for future setting. Rear chain never tighter than when sprockets in same plane as swing arm. I use feed bags and anvil or rackets straps to do this.

I'm paying closer attention to rear chain tension as I over filled primary and gearbox which oiled the chain and caused grinding paste that took out the tension in one ride so chain so suddenly loose it could flop enough to take out swing arm grease zerk I had to remove chain to replace. Chain dired out so holding tension wear in check again, but links pins/plates got shot so getting close to 1/3 valley lift out = ugh almost time to renew too soon after too little oiling.