T120v Shed Find

My mate rang me up and said his wife was helping an old guy sell his house and did I have any interest in a Triumph?

Well yes, and now I'm the 3rd owner of a 1973 T120v with 23 000 mls.
First thing is the motor is seized from not being used since 1981.
I've put penetrating oil around the plugs and heated the head up but the plugs are well stuck, gave them a smack with a hammer too.
Going to leave it for a day and then try again.
Any tips?
cheers
John
There is a BSA M20 in big lumps there too, has tele forks, but its mixed in with a sloper in bits too...and a 'round tank" thingy..pondering that one.

Nice find.
Looks like a 71 or 72 though.

That's a nice classic "survivor".

They're only original once, and that one appears to be just that. The "period" panniers and kit are a nice touch, I'd retain them.

Do the most you can without repainting, replating or replacing with new bits (other than tires & rubber bits, and try to source NOS stuff)

Yes, July 1972, and plan is not to do any more than required to get it running and riding.
I think the best approach with the seized spark plugs may be to take the head off, as I suspect the sealing ring wont let the penetrating oil past.

Try the ATF / acetone mix

The olde ' Heat Cycle ' Trick . A Butane Torch - IF YOU DONT SET FIRE TO IT . Have a bucket or two of water on standby .

Though Head of might be a start . Id give it TWO WEEKS patiance , inverted , penetrateing oil in threads in cahamber .

Though HEATING severly a few times gets the old differential expansion doing its thing , and also encourages the penetrateing oil or WD40 etc to get to work .

can always whack it back on without the rocker boxes , to kick the 3/8 drive lever bar on the plug socket . 8) :lol: A Short sharp shock . Then MORE OIL .
If its binding undoing , Tun BACK IN a turn or two . Likely the TROUBLE is they wernt OILED GREASED back in 1901 , so preferable to get the oil in now -
rather than RETHREADING tomorrow .

looks like a good find . the ' V ' of course is the FIVE SPEED trans . Though the first had a service update kit - likely done .
Theyre old Humber 80 / hilman Superminx Brake shoes - in the front . So possable to Hydrayisise . though first trick IS to LOOSE the stop light switch , if installed .
Use a One Piece Outer Front Brake Cable . Some suckers lengthen the operating arms . Not sure if cams are symmetrical - would enable a Link Rod and syncronous
rotation , with a inteligent cable run as per a 68 - 70 - straight up the fork leg . i had the old 67 back & looped up on the BonEvel , theyre not entirely confidance inspireing
at warp factor eight . Captain .

They used to whinge about the high seats on those . How times have changed . positively low compared to some modern suckers .

Put the HEAT on the PLUG = rather than the alloy . Could get neurotic regarding diferential expansion and being cracked in the head .



you can heat the sucker to cherry red :shock: then . Softening itll make it easyer to drill out . :lol: :lol: :lol: .

" but its mixed in with a sloper in bits too... " could be usefull if youre planning a saw mill . :mrgreen:

Started on it tonight, removed clutch and kickstart worked again, probably was bound up from "hopeful buyers", gearbox shifts nicely. Took head off and soaking plug area.
Bore had a bit of surface rust, cleaned it up with some wire wool and motor turns over freely now.
Despite is haggard appearance everything seems to be in pretty good order inside.
I wonder if its worth doing anything to the valves? ( 23 000 mls).

Clean & Inspect !

If the stems bruised from the rocker / adjuster - sometimes theyre equivilant of peened oversize diameter . So you have to
clean off the extra diameter ( above the collets - right at the top ) BEFORE you drag it through the valve guides .

25.000 was considered standard guide service life - so may be a bit of slack / rock - in the valve stem .
New guides done carefully you likely only need a few turns on a cutter to get the seats in true .
You do the BARE MINIMUM so as not to sink the valves .
Same on valves - machine seats true - as pairs - so same contour. i.e. gotta match the worst one . Generally reface valves
the third time theyre getting a bit thin , so not as durable resisting burning - though theyre Lighter .
Same old check rocker arc & centrelaty . If the thrusts offset the guides take a hideing and get side wear .
Useually you taper the exposed portion of the guide and radius the last sixteenth .

Probly want the frame flushing , and a cooler to increase volume for touring .

Cheers Matt.
Got the head off

yum

inside bits

They cleaned up ok, looks like just need a light hone and a new set of Std rings.


exhaust guides are worn, valve seats look ok, still can't get plugs out.

Looks Good . But Doesnt look clean . A case of polish is on the way . :lol:

The Word ' SLUDGE TRAP ' comes to mind , for some reason .

The livelyer Flywheels look like this , Id been told 72 but 67 is more likely .



Theyre dual width , where the constant width ones with tapered edges are less of a strain,( on the pilot ) if more pedestrian .

Thought mine'd looked like the one on the left . :? http://www.accessnorton.com/triumph-tr6c-exhaust-question-t6476.html

This one belows the olde cowe type , ( tapered edges ) for dirt roads & M-X sidecars .



Drivle Here . http://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/page-view ... trap_tube/ SLUDE TRAP ?

How to Be CLEAN & TIDY .

In Print , a must have , Hes writen another more comprehensive book too , but may not be a tooners bible . :?

What about those plugs? Any luck with the ATF/acetone?

No way I'd put that one back together without splitting the cases and pulling the sludge tube to clean it properly.

Cheers Fellow Triumph fans,I had a Google on sludge traps and the engine is coming out tonight.
Good thing my T140 racing mate has lots of tools....
He nearly always has them handy :roll:

Pulled motor out tonight.

Next step split the case.

DONT forget the two screws inside the mouth inboard of the holes for the tappet blocks in the Crankcase Mouth .

Looking a bit cleaner . 8) Theres hope yet .

You've made it more difficult by removing the barrel,before you removed the mainshaft nuts and camwheel nuts.They're much easier to remove when the engine is in the frame too,because you can select top gear and apply the rear brake.A rattle-gun would help now,or a spare crank pinion to lock the timing gears.

You'll find some useful info here,if you read it all.It's aimed at the T140,but much the same.http://www.triumphrat.net/vintage-t...6622-how-do-i-build-bullet-proof-t140v-3.html
You have the same 30 mm timing side main bearing,that came out in '71.They were weaker than the previous imperial bearing so a 3-piece roller bearing is an improvement.It also makes it easier to check end float and rod centrality.

My mate dropped all his T140 tools around yesterday, next is dismantle the bottom end and clean out that sludge trap.
Pretty cool being the first into a 42 year old motor.
Sump plug is not listening to my " Resistance is Futile"
Matey says to put a roller in for the drive? is it a simple swap out?
Thanks for the links.