Stuck Valve

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I am in the process of rebuilding the top end of the engine. I bought a basket case, thus, never seen it run. Last night, I was successful in removing 3 valves out of 4. The fourth one is pretty much seized in the valve guide. I put a dead blow hammer to it with no avail. I was thinking of using the arbor press at work and I was wondering if this was the right way to go? Should I put heat to it first?
I certainly do not want to bend the valve stem, even if I intend to replace all valves with some Kibbles.
 
CDubb said:
I was thinking of using the arbor press at work and I was wondering if this was the right way to go? Should I put heat to it first?

Yes, try heating the head first.
 
A squirt of penetrating oil, then a few light taps without messing up the tip of the valve.

Repeat 2 or 3 times over an afternoon.

Should then press out easily.
 
grandpaul said:
A squirt of penetrating oil, then a few light taps without messing up the tip of the valve.

Repeat 2 or 3 times over an afternoon.

Should then press out easily.

You may require a bit of patience here, depending on how stuck the valve is.
One tip to go with the above useing an hammer and alloy drift, as this will not preen over the (hardened) valve tip.
 
Is it stuck because the tip is mushroomed a bit and want pass through the guide?

Or is it stuck because it's rusted in place?
 
Hi heat and AFT/Acetone or candle wax. I'd heat the valve very hot then let the heat soak out of it to expand the surrounds before the muscle part applied. Nitric acid will attack rust and steel but not hurt Al. Mushroom end may need trimming.
 
A sharp strike with a solid hammer rather than a dead blow may prove to free the valve. Hold a drift very perpendicular then pop the drift with a sharp blow. If wow'ing or mushrooming becomes an issue, grind a chamfer as you would when you dress a cold chisel.
Some heat is good but try to keep it local to the guide as global heat may make the situation worse.

If you are ridding yourself of the valves anyway, you might try spinning or turning the valve (so to speak) by angling a center punch to the valve.
Easy does it!
 
If the head has 850 guides it might be possible to remove the guide cir-clip, heat the head up to the usual 180degs and remove the valve and guide in one piece, might prevent peripheral damage.

Cash
 
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