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Normally I use big handcutters tool to grab and lever-prise out the big key next to crankseal. Need new ideas.
Stuck crankkey
- Thread starter Torontonian
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Some times you can hit one end of the key so it rotates in the recess making it easier to flick out.
For the first time ever I had a drama (yesterday) so a fitting thread.
The 850 crankshaft is sitting on the bench with the TS key stuck fast and near flush.
For the first time ever I had a drama (yesterday) so a fitting thread.
The 850 crankshaft is sitting on the bench with the TS key stuck fast and near flush.
Torontonian said:
I use a center punch to coach or even a screw driver it to one side and then grab it with your choice of grabber thingies. Clean the keyway with small file. New keys are cheap at the corner hardware store or clean up the old one with a file if salvageable. No big whoop, it's just for location and not to keep anything in place under load.
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It won't move. Tried flat nose centerpunch hits to rotate out. Nothing on sides of it to snag up,just in deep and tight. How about dremel wheel cutting slot down center to weaken it ? I'm trying to replace the older crank oil seal .
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Have a new large woodruff key on hand from Walridge. Had 2 reasons to pull primary ,the weeping seal into dry belt R.G.M. area and to change the gearbox sprocket from 20 tooth down to 19. 20 was too tall on takeoff as I sometimes carry a passenger.
I did the samething. Generally 500rpm increase accross the board. Aprox. 4500 at 70, 5000 at 80, 5500 at 90.Torontonian said:
Be sure to dry out the inner primary fasteners to the crankcase and put sealer on the threads. That lower right bolt (around 4:30) is notorious for weeping, reed valve in place or not. The other two do not come into play so much.
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The key on pre-Peel was blacksmithed welded to slot so ended up breaking it up with sharp pointed hard chisel but that ain't good on bearings which I switched out anyway. Other wise might take to welder to put on a stick till key glows then wait 25 sec for heat to flow out of key into shaft and see what happens.
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Yes I noticed a bit of weeping at the 4:30 one so will use Hylomar this time. I recall someone here changed to 3 studs as a different idea , so any links to that as an improvement since it's all apart (again) ? Hobot I will carefully attack with high speed Dremel cutter tip to weaken the key for extraction attempt(s). It's not welded in , just tighter than .... :wink:
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hobot is the first I ever heard of red loctiting 3 off the shelf auto store studs to stop weepage with inner case off and easier mounting back on. Best wishes to fingers, slot sides and shaft finish dremalling the keys hardness and not just leaving remains still blacksmith welded in place. Hope rest of crank ain't bend from the pounding that fused key in slot.
staticmoves
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I had the same key stuck on a recent tear down.
some careful dremel work took care of it.
some careful dremel work took care of it.
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Got it out. Dremel Tool and penetrating oil. Cut with wheel right down the Key center ,then used a punch to strike each side to fold it in like a tortilla. Then punched it to rotate it upwards towards the seal then grab with fine vice-grips and pull out of crank recess. Now wondering how to pick or pull out old crankseal and seat new one. The new crankkey is too tight I can see ,so why repeat the problem ,will make it a tad narrower by shuffling it about on the sides on some emery paper over flat steel table tomorrow. Happy it came out. 
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Thanks Steve ,will try extraction today. Pete the key slot on the timing side is important re: locating ,but the big one on driveside is not so, one important purpose is to prevent catastrophic failures. If something goes horribly awry in the drive system the keyway is there to shear off (hopefully) and prevent running engine lockup. That's my understanding anyway.
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Seal is out. Used a sharp tipped pick to tap gently into seal ,then changed to a 90 degree bend pick to get in and under,then a light prise/pull and out she came. New seal lightly coated with Motoseal 1 on outside,pushed into recess to start by hand then tapped home in cirular fashion with flatpoint cylindrical punch. Lapped-fettered new Key to tap into place so as to be not as tight as before.
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Its DS crank and crank sprocket tapper fit that should take the torque pulses and require good heat and puller to remove sprocket or tends to blacksmith weld key into slot. Small picks and magnets and robust pullers should be part of full service tool kit but dang it not dremal, air impact, stick welders and cutting torch not listed-shown in manuals. I'm waiting on parts to repair other small engines here and a day off in pleasant temps so no excuses left me to take off Trixie's primary then expose crank and reseal everything again after ring job fixed smoking habit but not Combat wet sump mess using some its 2S spunk. Ugh, this is only reason I learned to take pre-Peel apart, working fine but with 13 leak points, only took 5 yr to get road going again. I'm sure I'll be kicking my self while doing this again for not joining the Suzuki SV650 forums wtih road and desert racers adventures than sticking around with obsolete clunkers issues.
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