Stripped thread in kick start

Mic

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G’day....the thread in the kick start lever clamp on my 74 mk2a is badly stripped,well the bolt that came out of it has stripped and was possibly not the original...I would like to retap the female thread to see if it cleans up and is serviceable ...anybody know what size /type tap I should be using?
Tnx in advance
 

baz

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G’day....the thread in the kick start lever clamp on my 74 mk2a is badly stripped,well the bolt that came out of it has stripped and was possibly not the original...I would like to retap the female thread to see if it cleans up and is serviceable ...anybody know what size /type tap I should be using?
Tnx in advance
3/8" unf from memory
 
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Tap it through and put a longer bolt and also add a nut and spring washer and you will have no more problems.

Ashley
 
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Good place for a high tensile bolt, tightening up hard removes risk of loosening off and the splines wearing.
 
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Yep clean the thread, longer bolt, tighten then add spring washer and nut, I did that a long time ago but now have the longer kicker a T160 folding kicker and its never comes lose.
 
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Mic

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Yep clean the thread, longer bolt, tighten then add spring washer and nut, I did that a long time ago but now have the longer kicker a T160 folding kicker and its never comes lose.
I have the foldable longer lever on my 750 and it sure was an improvement with the extra leverage and had better clearance from the pipes on the kick through...tnx ash
 

Tornado

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Same torque as the exhaust rose nuts...Right F'ng Tight!

Have also heard a good tip to ensure better clamping of the KS arm is to file/grind two of the teeth on the clamp nearest the slot. this lets the clamp close just a wee bit more makingbetter grip on all splines.

Regarding longer ks arms like for mkiii or the snazzy folding type...don't these mean less engine rotation at the expense of the greater leverage?
 
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Same torque as the exhaust rose nuts...Right F'ng Tight!



Regarding longer ks arms like for mkiii or the snazzy folding type...don't these mean less engine rotation at the expense of the greater leverage?
In theory yes but in practice you kick better when it's easier, well for me anyway.
 
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Same torque as the exhaust rose nuts...Right F'ng Tight!

Have also heard a good tip to ensure better clamping of the KS arm is to file/grind two of the teeth on the clamp nearest the slot. this lets the clamp close just a wee bit more makingbetter grip on all splines.

Regarding longer ks arms like for mkiii or the snazzy folding type...don't these mean less engine rotation at the expense of the greater leverage?
I did that with my old kicker open up the gap on the kicker so it closes tighter for a better hold on the splines as well the HT bolt that is longer tighten up and just remembered didn't put a spring washer but only a nut that is tighten after the bolt has been tighten, this stopped my old kicker from going loose, with my folding kicker it has never come loose on the spline in 7 years but every so often I have to tighten the folding bolt a little.

Ashley
 

Mic

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All fixed now guys tapped,longer tensile bolt with nut.....it took a bit of grinding to make room for the nut but the result is all good...tnx for info and suggestions
 
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All good Mic, having owned my Norton since new I have learned a lot of little tricks in over the 43 years of ownership, my original kicker was stolen back in 79 and them days it was hard finding a new replacement so had to push start my Norton for 4 months before I got a new replacement, but the new one kept getting loose and was always tightening the bolt, just wasn't as good as the original kicker, but once opening the gap and the longer bolt after cleaning the thread and putting the nut on as well it stopped it coming loose, but as the years went by that fix started to loosen up but not as bad, now with the folding kicker all is good and been on for just over 7 years now and hasn't come loose yet so fingers crossed should out last me.

Ashley
 

robs ss

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G’day....the thread in the kick start lever clamp on my 74 mk2a is badly stripped,well the bolt that came out of it has stripped and was possibly not the original...I would like to retap the female thread to see if it cleans up and is serviceable ...anybody know what size /type tap I should be using?
Tnx in advance
A side issue that may assist...
I was informed quite a few years ago to check that the spline teeth (female) on the kickstarter do not come too close to the split/bolt.
Some do - meaning that tightening the bolt merely loads up those teeth - not, as intended, close the gap.
I use a file + dremel to remove any spline teeth (on the actual kickstarter - not the shaft - silly) within 10mm of the split.
I haven't had an issue with a loosening bolt since using this system.
Hope it helps
Cheers
Rob
 
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robs ss

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On a lighter note - this is not a problem that most Harley riders will encounter.
Boom-Boom!!
 

Fullauto

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The later kickstarters have a few teeth taken off th spline close to the gap. This allows it to close up better. No more problems.
 
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