Sticky Plates?...57 pre-unit T100

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Jun 22, 2012
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My gear changes have been producing a lot more crunch of late ..so following instructions I have adjusted the push rod activator and cable (new) over and over.
Still crunches slightly into first (it has never jumped forward) and the kick starter will not disengage when bike is in gear with the clutch lever hard on the bar.
Q. should the kicks starter disengage?
Q. have I just got a case of sticky clutch plates?

The bike had had a lot of work done by a Triumph mechanic late last year, including the clutch, so parts should not be worn out with the few miles that I have done since the rebuild.
ATF is used in the case which I have not open up at this stage.
I have done the plates many times on my Commando 750 but this classic Triumph tiger is new to me
What are the areas to pay special attention to if any?
Help "Oldrider" if you can please.

:|
 
Oldrider said:
Still crunches slightly into first (it has never jumped forward) and the kick starter will not disengage when bike is in gear with the clutch lever hard on the bar.
Q. should the kicks starter disengage?
Q. have I just got a case of sticky clutch plates?
:|

Kicking it in gear is trying to propel the bike with the kickstarter, clutch in or out.

In neutral, squeeze the clutch lever fully to the handlebar and press the kickstart. The clutch plates should release and the pedal should feel free and go straight down, not turning the engine. It is common to have to do that before a cold start, so you can get it into first gear.

"Crunching slightly into first" doesn't sound too serious. Try pulling the clutch lever with the engine idling slowly, then waiting a couple of seconds before pressing the gear pedal into first. Another "trick" is to lift the pedal into second gear, before pressing it down into first. Sometimes that's quieter.

One more thing- use SAE90 or similar gear oil in the gearbox. Engine oil can be too thin.
 
Thanks Triton Thrasher,
The kick start in neutral does exactly as you said it should. A tick for that one.
Now you mention it, I did change the oil to an 80 grade gear oil the other day, probably too thin eh?
She's an old bike and I didn't pay much so probably keep it for a bit longer then.



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Sticky Plates?...57 pre-unit T100
 

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Clutch adjustment may be involved.

When the plates are not fully disengaged, the transmission mainshaft continues to turn even with the clutch lever in; so when you go to drop it in gear, the gears grind against each other. Engaging 2nd gear FIRST is easier on the grinding, but your clutch is still not properly adjusted.
 
Thanks GrandPaul,

I reckon that too, so I did a little test.
Screwed the cable adjuster on the gear casing in gradually until the crunching stopped... cable was v.tight with no free play.
Not right ..so is there some adjustment to the clutch itself if I take off the drive cover?
I haven't looked yet, but I think my model has the "hat" with 4 springs and a central non adjustable bolt head arrangement.(I would think that this would be the actuator rod seat)
Seems to me that the clutch is not throwing out enough.
That give you any clues
Thanks guys for all the help so far.
Triumph Newby
 
The pressure plate springs also need to be fiddled with to get best overall results. You don't want the springs binding at "full pull", and you don't want the clutch slipping when you roll on the throttle in higher gears.
 
Thanks GrandPaul
Done all those adjustments mentioned in posts and the actuating rod has a tiny bit of free play so the clutch comes all the way off.
Took her for a ride and still get a some "graunching' or( snicking) in gears going up and down... not serious? maybe but I would hate to damage the box since it has had some new stuff inside(gears etc.)
Feel that the clutch needs to be disengaged just a frag more to get a clean change.
Fiddling with the pp springs may be the answer. Should I wind them in or out ? for more disengagement.

I live in the "bush" here in Australia and not a lot of Classic Triumph experts around... so just as well I got you great helpers
She's an old bike and I want to treat her right.
Richard
 
thanks Guys,
Did a quick clutch job this afternoon and looking at the circular scrape marks in the drive cover, the clutch has been massively over extended. So my Triumph "expert" mechanic turns out to be a clutz after all.
Anyway, I removed all the plates and washed them. All in good shape so back they went.
Replaced the pp and wound the springs in a bit more than what they had been previously
Adjusted the rod clearance and cable free play so the pp didn't throw as much as before.
Seems ok now.
Not rocket science after all.
Cheers
 
I'm just browsing this thread. Glad that worked out for you. Just wanted to let you know how much I admire that pre unit. She's a real beauty. I've had a jumping problem with my T140. It doesn't get a lot of use. I hold the clutch in for a few minutes now to wet up the plates good and it seems to work well. Glad I have a good Triumph mechanic too. He's been working on Trumpets and Beezas since the early 60s.
 
On the move, you eliminate crunching by matching the engine rpm to the gear you're going into.

Close the throttle to rpm drop the right amount as you change up.

Give it a little bit of rev as you change down.

3rd and 4th are close ratios. Less rpm difference.
 
Thanks TritonThrasher,
After my clutch work last night, took her for a run to the Annual Motor Expo. Seems a lot better and also getting used to changing up and down more positively just as you suggested. Not expecting much from a 1937 ? design gear box but not too bad now. Oh yes I came home with the silver ware for the best classic bike. Occasionally things turn out good on an old bike
Cheers and have a safe Easter.
 
Oldrider said:
I came home with the silver ware for the best classic bike. Occasionally things turn out good on an old bike.

Congrats!

Very well deserved.

Being my birth year, I am perhaps a bit biased; but that takes NOTHING away from an absolutely beautiful bike.
 
Still crunches slightly into first

How Unusual . I heard of a Triump that DIDNT crunch going into first . But it was moving at the time . :p :mrgreen:

The ANSWER is to Shift INTO SECOND , THEN change into FIRST . :) :wink:

Alternately ; shut your left eye , wiggle your right ear , blip the throttle , and if you coordinate within the correct three nano seconds ,
it might go in noislesly . Or maybe the blip covers the graunch . :?

I see theres a hardly ableson primary oil advertised in revs or whatever .

If you want a REAL crunch , i was demonstrated ' the Slickshift ' once , " You Dont Need to use the Cluctch Lever . I see . :(

It was droped , for some reason .

Serially , at a standstill - hit second then into first .

P.S. the P. U. lever gives a long throw , so correct fore & aft position of ' the boot ' helps . A unit lever gets a less toe wiggling .
Boting a reluctant lever in with your heel occasionall gets a bent & stuck oil pressure indicator , So your indignation needs to be tempered .

p.s.s. This computor cant spell very well . Maybe it needs some crc in the keyboard . :x Warm Oil 'l give less drag , so may be possable to get it silent , warm . CLUTCHLESS SHIFTS are par for the course , and at least'l teach you co - ordination , which is required anyway .
 
Thanks for the comments GrandPaul and advice too Mike Spencer
Nice Bike, delivered to Melbourne in 1956 (yep, I went to the Olympic Games)
Most of the bike's history is traceable.
The bloke on Fool's Bay didn't want the responsibility and turned it over for a quick buck.
I am now the "lucky" custodian and will endevour to do her justice.(and 'ride not hide').
Cheers
Richard

Wierd machines @ the Bairnsdale Motor Expo 2015

Sticky Plates?...57 pre-unit T100


Sticky Plates?...57 pre-unit T100
 
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