Stator heat test

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worntorn

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I've done one half of this test.
It is a simple test to determine if the Podtronics regulator creates a lot of extra heat in the stator. It's been suggested that it does and that this excess heat will cook the stator eventually.
The first half of the test involved starting the cold bike (65 degrees in shop, 55 outside) then riding it 12 miles.
The 60watt headlight is on as well as a 40 watt vest.
Total electrical load is 150 watts. Most of the ride had the monitor showing amber, however it did change to green a few times when I allowed the revs to creep up to 3900 or so.
Amber is above 12.45 volts, green is above 13.1
The balance point for this load is right around 3800 rpm.
A little above that and the monitor changes to green.
At 3800 it holds a steady amber, which tells me the alternator is producing the full load amount of 150 watts but no more.
The voltage regulator should be asleep for this part of the test.
According to the Lucas Service notes, their Alternators can provide their full rated power continuously without being harmed.
At the end of the 12 mile 3800 rpm ride I was very warm and so was the stator
It measured 120 degrees F. Other items in there were cooler. The primary cover itself was a tepid 88f.

The bike is now on a trickle charger with a high voltage cutout.
The plan is to fully charge the battery then torture test the stator and Podtronics tomorrow.
With a fully charged battery and no headlight or heated vest load, the Podtronics will be working overtime to regulate the voltage.
If this activity builds excess heat in the stator as has been suggested, it should be a lot hotter than 120f at the end of tomorrow's ride, which will be done at the same RPM.

Glen
 
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What was the temp of the crankcase to which the stator is bolted? I suspect the temp of the stator in a properly functioning system is typically "established" by the temp of the engine hard parts surrounding it, rather than the resistance heating of the stator itself.

Re that, some cars that have the alternator close to exhaust or somewhat 'enclosed' by engine parts have have a shroud with a hose attached that leads to cooler air so that the alternator fan can pull cool air in.
 
Yes, I'll check the reg too.
I don't think the temp of the crankcase matters for this test.
The stator was the hottest item in the primary today, by a fair margin. Lucas says it is made to handle that.
If it gets much hotter when the Podtronics is regulating, that could be a problem.

Its additional heat due to the Podtronics reg that I'm looking for.
If there is no additional heat or very little, I'm going to put the Podtronics out of mind.
If there is a big increase in heat I will try the test again with Zeners.


Glen
 
Suggest you change the rectifier and get a BSM if you are seeing the above. It should be green constantly part from when you put the indicators on. I use RM23, Trispark rectifier and the electric start and the BSM goes green with a minute or so of using the starter.
 
Suggest you change the rectifier and get a BSM if you are seeing the above. It should be green constantly part from when you put the indicators on. I use RM23, Trispark rectifier and the electric start and the BSM goes green with a minute or so of using the starter.
Are you sure ? Don't forget the test involves a 40w heated vest
 
"I don't think the temp of the crankcase matters for this test."

The stator is bolted to the engine and, therefore, absorbs heat from it...or visa versa if the stator actually does get hotter than the engine.

FWIW, 120F is not very hot; car alternators get much hotter than that. 200F+ is not unusual under load, and that's with a fan! ;) I've seen IR readings of 240F on car alternators producing full power and all electrical readings were perfectly normal.

That being said, I admit I have no idea if a Lucas (or whatever) Norton alternator is that robust or not. But heck, it's just metal and insulated copper wire - same as a car alternator... ;)
 
"I don't think the temp of the crankcase matters for this test."

The stator is bolted to the engine and, therefore, absorbs heat from it...or visa versa if the stator actually does get hotter than the engine.

FWIW, 120F is not very hot; car alternators get much hotter than that. 200F+ is not unusual under load, and that's with a fan! ;) I've seen IR readings of 240F on car alternators producing full power and all electrical readings were perfectly normal.

That being said, I admit I have no idea if a Lucas (or whatever) Norton alternator is that robust or not. But heck, it's just metal and insulated copper wire - same as a car alternator... ;)
Correct, 120f is not scary hot, but this was with the system running at its coolest / happiest, so it should not be hot.

Hence the next test, with the system running at its theoretical hottest / unhappiest.

We shall see what we shall see!

There has been much discussion about this for a while so it’s fantastic that someone has taken this on. Thanks Glen !
 
I don't think there will be much difference. Unlike a car alternator there is no controllable field, just a permanent magnet. Alternator doesn't know if it's dumping current into a vest, headlamp, or heat sink.
 
Your test conditions is basically the ideal operating condition for the stator and PODtronic. The PODtronic regulation duty cycle will be very low.

Where you will see the heat rise is under low electrical demand - no heated vest, LED head light, where the voltage is being fully regulated almost 100% of the time.

Will you be testing this configuration as well?
 
Your test conditions is basically the ideal operating condition for the stator and PODtronic. The PODtronic regulation duty cycle will be very low.

Where you will see the heat rise is under low electrical demand - no heated vest, LED head light, where the voltage is being fully regulated almost 100% of the time.

Will you be testing this configuration as well?
Post 1

The plan is to fully charge the battery then torture test the stator and Podtronics tomorrow.
With a fully charged battery and no headlight or heated vest load, the Podtronics will be working overtime to regulate the voltage.
If this activity builds excess heat in the stator as has been suggested, it should be a lot hotter than 120f at the end of tomorrow's ride, which will be done at the same RPM.
 
I may be able to contribute to this effort and provide an additional data point. I have what many would consider a worst case configuration - 210 watt 3-phase alternator with Shindengen MOSFET shunting regulator and LED lights. I'm interested in what the temperature rise is under "normal" riding conditions, which for me is 40-50 mph with lights on. I see battery voltage get to 14.5 at 2000 RPM, so I know the regulator is becoming active. Worst case would be sustained highway speed with no lights, but I don't ride without them.
 
"I don't think the temp of the crankcase matters for this test."

The stator is bolted to the engine and, therefore, absorbs heat from it...or visa versa if the stator actually does get hotter than the engine.

FWIW, 120F is not very hot; car alternators get much hotter than that. 200F+ is not unusual under load, and that's with a fan! ;) I've seen IR readings of 240F on car alternators producing full power and all electrical readings were perfectly normal.

That being said, I admit I have no idea if a Lucas (or whatever) Norton alternator is that robust or not. But heck, it's just metal and insulated copper wire - same as a car alternator... ;)
The heat transfer from or to the engine doesn't matter because the effect will be the same for both tests.
 
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