Start up process

I am at the point of trying to start my two Mk111s after a complete rebuild. I will try to re-use the Boyer system that I used 20 years ago. If memory services me correctly, I can take both the capacitors and the ballast resistor out of the system. I am not sure if the rectifier remains online and if so which wires connect if I am using the Boyer power box.

Any help on start up issues will be helpful and any tips on how the Boyer system may react after 20 years in storage will also be most helpful in bringing these two Commandos back.

Thanks
Tom

MK111 High Rider
MK111 Roadster/cafe racer
1968 XKE OTS

Here you go. My Boyer just took a dump this weekend.
I'll be buying a tri-spark tomorrow.

http://www.boyerbransden.com/productinfo.html

MKIII's can go by the Boyer instruction to set initial timing and then time light to 32' max @ 5000, or find analog Boyer curve and pick a more comfortable rpm but a new start up is usually good to keep rpms up a good bit to bed in cam/lifters and get rings sealed good real quick. Main hassle is pumping oil in to fill crank as much as can. Some have worn engine out just hand turning slow till oil showed at tank. You will not over heat you engine even in still air for some minutes way over idle but expect lots of oil and grime vapors to keep you worried till that cooks off. Double check every nut and bolt or may fine them later by oil puddles. Analog Boyers do not need ballast resistor nor the condensors. Hope ya modified kicker gap and removed a few lower splines to take bolt clamp and kicking to keep it locked on firm or eats up the splines. Expect white smoke exhaust for some minutes but then should about disappear, only to show up again stored on side stand or by wet sump flush out that can vary day to day. Leave oil cap off till ya see oil returning, but can take most a minute to show up, then can spray ya if too much blip ups.

New births are always pensive so set up a video to record forever.

Sorry Hobot, I have no idea what you mean by kicker gap or lower splines. I was planning on manually turning engine after priming to see oil return to tank.

Tanks for the electric comments -- I assume that I still need the rectifier connected somehow. Still concerned that the 20 year old Boyer will cause more problems in this start up process.

Thanks for the video suggestion. Hope I have enough memory.

Tom

The recommended way to start up a new rebuild is to pump oil through the crank off the timing side with pressure, but I've never figured that one out. Other thing to do is fill the oil tank, let it wet sump for a few days and start it. The oil will all be in the sump and the oil pump will immediately be pumping oil through the rods and upper end real quick. I primed mine by turning it over from the drive side with a large drill on the crank nut, but I'm told that's not a good thing to do, apparently hard on the cam. However after a few minutes, oil was pumping into the tank and when I started it, oil was circulating just fine. I use straight SAE50. Assembly lube is not a bad idea too, I just used a judicious amount of 50 oil on assembly. First start produced a slight amount of smoke, but after that, no smoke and starts good.

Good luck,
Dave
69S

DogT said:

The recommended way to start up a new rebuild is to pump oil through the crank off the timing side with pressure, but I've never figured that one out. Other thing to do is fill the oil tank, let it wet sump for a few days and start it. The oil will all be in the sump and the oil pump will immediately be pumping oil through the rods and upper end real quick. I primed mine by turning it over from the drive side with a large drill on the crank nut, but I'm told that's not a good thing to do, apparently hard on the cam. However after a few minutes, oil was pumping into the tank and when I started it, oil was circulating just fine. I use straight SAE50. Assembly lube is not a bad idea too, I just used a judicious amount of 50 oil on assembly. First start produced a slight amount of smoke, but after that, no smoke and starts good.

Good luck,
Dave
69S

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If it is wet sumped doesnt the scavenge side of the oil pump have to return it to the tank before it comes back to the feed side leaving the possibility of running dry before it refills the tank? I would just take off the rocker oil feed line and squirt oil into the timing cover to fill the crank etc

Cheesy said:

If it is wet sumped doesnt the scavenge side of the oil pump have to return it to the tank before it comes back to the feed side leaving the possibility of running dry before it refills the tank? I would just take off the rocker oil feed line and squirt oil into the timing cover to fill the crank etc

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Boy you got me there, not that I really understand how that oil system works. All I know is my bike wet sumps in 2 days, and I just start it up with the screen in the bottom of the tank visible and oil immediately starts flowing into the tank and on around. Maybe not in the crank and head except what's been left there? I'm not the expert here, just offering my experiences which any one can take as they like. Maybe I shouldn't be offering oil circulation opinions, but I'm willing to learn.

Then there are the people that take off the head lines for testing and run it for quite a while without lube? I don't know, I just ride and the oil works.

Dave
69S

You only need enough oil in the tank, IF Engine has already been started, to run it a few seconds before the sump side refills tank faster than drained out. If you fill it to factory specs expect lots of it on the outside till it reaches its innate level. You are not a real Norton mechanic until you have forgotten about the wet sump and top off tank then kick her off...

hobot said:

You only need enough oil in the tank, IF Engine has already been started, to run it a few seconds before the sump side refills tank faster than drained out. If you fill it to factory specs expect lots of it on the outside till it reaches its innate level. You are not a real Norton mechanic until you have forgotten about the wet sump and top off tank then kick her off...

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Ya know, I don't know why I never filled up the oil tank after it sumped, but I never did. I guess I was just really stupid back in the days, or somehow I figured it out that the engine had to be run before checking the level. I think that was pretty much the case with cars then too. My JD2020 is different, has to be checked when cold or it gets overfilled, but it's got an oil pan. Maybe we just figure these things out as we go along??

I'm still dreaming about that yellow and chrome 441 Victor.

Dave
69S

I'm still dreaming about that yellow and chrome 441 Victor.

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Sigh. I understand, for me its a Candy Apple gold dusted Red P!! Ranger.

hobot said:

[
Sigh. I understand, for me its a Candy Apple gold dusted Red P!! Ranger.

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That would be cool too, or a 16H if any are around. I'm not picky, just has to have push rods.

Dave
69S