SS fiberglass tank: rubbers or studs and rubbers pad?

Hi.
Is better to fit the tank with front rubbers or with studs and rubbers pad?.
Thank you.
Ciao
Piero

I'm gonna use both, although with a steel SS (Hi-Rider, AJS replica) tank. Plus the bracket that runs under the frame tube. Belt and suspenders.

With my steel Hi-Rider tank, I never found it necessary to use the strap in the rear as the banjos worked pretty well in keeping it down. Mind you, never laid it down tho.

I believe Piero is asking whether he should use the exhaust mount type tank fixing rubbers or simply screw in long mounting studs and use large rubber washers.

I find the exhaust mount method easy to use and reliable, but long studs with washers allows for more variety in terms of height adjustment of the tank at the front.

The holes in the frame bracket are larger than the threaded studs or the studs on the bonded rubbers, so as long as you don't overtighten the nylock nuts, the tank should still be free to move a bit in all directions with the studs and rubber washers as it would with the bonded donuts.

I use those exhaust rubber mounts on all of my Norton tanks. One thing I've noticed with them, is that when the tank gets lower on petrol, it has a tendency to shudder quite a bit at lower speed. Especially with the Interstate tank. I've cured this by wedging two pieces of closed cell foam into the front area of the tank. Maybe an inch thick, and a two inch by two inch square. This would be at both front sides of the tank tunnel. The closed cell foam (like the kind they use in packing boxes) won't absorb water, and is usually black or dark grey. I just make sure to place these pieces of foam so the throttle cable and wiring are free to move.