Spark plugs (2016)

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comnoz said:
Yes, the retracted tip plug is likely to make a smidge less power because it is slower in starting the burn.

The reason it is used is because it is pre-ignition proof. There is nothing to overheat and glow.

Of course if using a retracted tip plug means you can jet closer to the ideal mixture without encountering pre-ignition, then you will end up with a power gain.

I have found on my bike I can make a little more power using a surface gap plug and jetting a little leaner.


When I was a member of a dirt car pit crew, our pit neighbors tried every permutation of timing, fuel ratio, and plug to try to make more power in their race car. They ran their car so hot that when they came into the pits, one of their crew would mist their radiator with water to cool their engine off so it wouldn't burn up. Their premise for running their engine as hot as possible was the idea that "more heat is more power". My crew chief always shook his head at their antics because he knew they were going to burn their engine up eventually during one of their races. They weren't consistantly good racers, but I recall one night when they had it all working well and won their class (358 modified) that evening. (usually it's more how the car is set up to handle that makes you win, not making more power)

Knowing these pit neighbors was one of the reasons I've tried so many different jets, plugs, and timing positions on my commando... Long story short, my bike runs best on the factory recommended plugs, at the recommended timing, with the recommended jetting. For a while, I tried a richer jet and hotter plug. The only difference I noticed was the color of the insulator on my plug. I thought this extra fuel and hotter plug with a little more timing advance would make my engine a little more powerful, run a little cooler, and have a longer burn duration...

What it actually did was make the bike hard to start, color my plug insulator darker, and add no perceivable power. For a while I thought that the darker plug meant I was probably running at a lower temperature, so I had a safety margin against burning up my bike, but then I realized I also was using a hotter plug, so I theorized that there was probably no significant difference in temperature... and I was wasting my time.

I gave up trying to out think the engineers and went back to all stock recommendations (plugs, jets, timing) and everything runs well, and the plugs look clean. I'm sure there's another level of tuning that I could persue to make the bike run better (like measure and micro adjust the cam timeing) but I think for a stock motor with stock cam profile and stock carbs,.... stick with the stock specified settings.

The only effect a larger main jet had was I couldn't get my bike to go faster than 80mph. It would bog down when I gave it more throttle. This was my reason to go back to all the recommended parts and settings, and sure enough everything works better.
 
Have fitted naked bp7es plugs with resistor caps. Striped down carburettor, and found idle jet wrong size and needle badly worn. Carb was given to me by a good friend, all cleaned out and rebuilt, with 106 jet with new needle from Amal. So we see what happens at the weekend. John. Uk
 
John leathers said:
Have fitted naked bp7es plugs with resistor caps. Striped down carburettor, and found idle jet wrong size and needle badly worn. Carb was given to me by a good friend, all cleaned out and rebuilt, with 106 jet with new needle from Amal. So we see what happens at the weekend. John. Uk


If you are running a single Amal carb then you are probably running the float bowl out of fuel at heavy throttle settings -unless the inlet needle seat has been modified. The stock Amal inlet needle will not flow enough fuel for two big cylinders. Jim
 
Just pulled the antique Champion N4G plugs after a ride and they look about right. There is a slight smidge of carbon around the rim and the insulators are chocolate brown. Why did they ever quit making them? I was lucky to find 8 in their original box for about the same per plug price you would pay for Iridiums.
 
They stopped making them no doubt because the profit margin fell off. Either too expensive to make
or not enough sales on the ones they made or both.
 
Bike is hard to start as seam to be on one cylinder, feel exhaust pipe one hot one cold. Remove plug it seems a little wet with slight oily look to it. Does not look fowled . Put plug in ht lead kick bike over and spark perfect, put in bike runs on one cylinder again. Seams like the plug is braking down under pressure. (New single coil pack, Boyer ignition ) timing 32d with strobe, fuel new super unleaded, single carb running a bit Ritchie, got some bp7es plugs coming. John. Uk
I had the same problem with my 71 Commando. Fitted 2 new inlet manifold insulators. Issue resolved.
 
Reading this thread and others, I had come to the conclusion to go with non resistor plugs.
I went to CNW website to see if they state the resistance for the leads in their Single Coil Conversion kit (high performance resistor wire - Taylor 8mm Pro wire).
They don't; yet included are 2 NGK BPR7ES plugs.
Thoughts on this please.

John
 
Reading this thread and others, I had come to the conclusion to go with non resistor plugs.
I went to CNW website to see if they state the resistance for the leads in their Single Coil Conversion kit (high performance resistor wire - Taylor 8mm Pro wire).
They don't; yet included are 2 NGK BPR7ES plugs.
Thoughts on this please.

John

The Taylor wires are fairly low resistance, a few hundred ohms per foot.
I would stay with resistor plugs.
 
The Taylor wires are fairly low resistance, a few hundred ohms per foot.
I would stay with resistor plugs.
That certainly makes acquiring plugs easier for me. I've had trouble finding locally a 7 range non-resistor.
Thank you very much.
 
Most parts stores you need to tell them the part number of the plug you want. NGK BP7ES is part number 1034. Try that, most of the counter guys won't walk back and look up a plug by what it says on the box. Else you get "what make and year".
 
The Taylor wires are fairly low resistance, a few hundred ohms per foot.
I would stay with resistor plugs.

Yup, my Taylor wires Ohm out around 300.
 
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