Spark plug reading

mean gene

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A while back I installed new 34mmm Amal premiers on a 750. Originally I had problems starting and lean mid. So changed needle and got a immediate improvement. Goes down the road great accelerates without any hesitation. Starts 1-2 kicks if I do my part.. So today I came down the street about 30mph, hit the kill switch. Pulled the plugs and this is what I saw! Both carbs are set up the same. They were synchronized with vacuum gages. Do you think the cause is Boyer ignition or they are not synchronized in the mid range? Thanks

Spark plug reading
 
Boyer should be providing same spark to both sides. Unless you put new plugs in then immediately run it up to full throttle and then check plugs, a plug check is pretty meaningless and is mainly checking the main jet. Idle mixture will color the plugs and it won't go away. My guess is the one side is slightly rich on the idle. You might try turning the air screw out an 1/8th turn or so. Otherwise, I wouldn't worry about it. Look pretty reasonable. My left side plug was always a little cleaner on my 72 no matter that they were setup identical.
 
You got to tune each carbie to each cylinder and each carb setting can be different to each other, having both carbs set the same will give different conditions to each plug, one carb might like the needle set in the middle and the other carb might like to be set higher on the needle, each carb and cylinder can be set differently to each other, that's what tuning is all about, just don't rely on having both carbs set the same.
 
A while back I installed new 34mmm Amal premiers on a 750. Originally I had problems starting and lean mid. So changed needle and got a immediate improvement. Goes down the road great accelerates without any hesitation. Starts 1-2 kicks if I do my part.. So today I came down the street about 30mph, hit the kill switch. Pulled the plugs and this is what I saw! Both carbs are set up the same. They were synchronized with vacuum gages. Do you think the cause is Boyer ignition or they are not synchronized in the mid range? Thanks

View attachment 99701
You would have to run quite a while at whatever speed to do a plug check and the speed is not actually the issue, it's the throttle opening. At any rate, if they are truly "setup the same", then they are not sync'ed IMHO. The ignition Boyer, Pazon, Ti-Spark, etc. cannot be to blame - both coils fire at the same time.
 
Swap the plugs side to side and go for a long ride at 30 mph or whatever speed you normally cruse and check the plugs again. See if the darker plug lightens or the light plug darkens.
 
It’s not the road speed that matters. It’s the twist grip position, this tells you which jets are in play and where to start looking. Mark the twistgrip so you can see at a glance where it is.

34mm Premiers ?
 
FWIW, with the standard cable setup I have found that the carb slides can be "in sync" at low/idle speed and out of sync at the top of the throttle bore. IOW, being in sync at one point doesn't mean they are at another point.

Also, as noted, the same setting on both carbs is not necessarily the correct setting for best running. The way I set up idle on my Commando is to ground one plug wire so it is running on one cylinder. I adjust the airscrew/throttle stop on the working cylinder to achieve the lowest idle speed that it will maintain. Then I do the other cylinder the same way, adjusting to the SAME RPM. When I reconnect both cylinders, the idle ends up pretty much where it should be. That being said, I have not observed any major difference in the airscrew settings - both are close to the spec - 1 1/2 turns out - with less than 1/8th of a turn difference between them.

Re carb jetting/settings - in my performance/competition engine-building days, we often found that jetting had to be different for multiple carbs sets. IOW, though I never worked on a Norton engine for that use, it would not have surprised me that maximum power/best running was achieved with different jets/settings on each carburetor.

What kind of air filter are you using? If separate for each carb, like a "sock"-type, it is possible that one is more restrictive than the other. I ran velocity stacks on my Commando for a while and discovered that when the jetting was correct - both plugs looking essentially perfect at a WOT plug chop, adding one of those screen "filters" (to keep the birds out) :) changed the plug reading from "right" to sooty/too rich.
 
I bet that if you opened the air screw on the right plug about 1/8 turn and rode it for 10 miles the plugs would match.
The motor needs to get up to operating temp and stay there for a while before you can make any realistic guess.
Yesterday I rode about 100 miles back to Seattle doing about 65 or 70 all the way back. That's about 4000 rpm at about 3/16 throttle..seems to be it's happy spot. Let me state that again..that's cruising speed at only 3/16 throttle...under a quarter throttle for almost all the trip on the freeway. If I turned the air screw a smidge in either direction it would color the plug. The air screw has a big role to play even up to 1/4 throttle
So..turn the air screw out on the right side 1/8 turn, put in new plugs, and take it out for a ride on the freeway where you can maintain a steady speed. Go at least ten miles and check it again. The plugs should be very close. If not turn the air screw a whisker and ride home...check again. Now that the plugs match, re-synch the carbs.
It is a good idea to mark your throttle position with tape and a felt pen and see where you are throttle - wise as you ride. It's quite an eye opener. You will find that you hardly ever use the top half of the carburetor..perhaps the top 3/4 unless you are an aggressive rider.
 
Not sure you'll get to perfect. My left plug is always v. Slightly darker than the right, not as much as yours, but noticeable. That's with a single carb.
 
Oil control issue (minor).

If you are running unleaded pump gas, spark plug readings are impossible.

please, read that again.

Unless the fuel mixture is OFF THE CHART HOG RICH, the plug will not give any jetting information.

If you are hell bent on a plug chop, get some racing fuel.
 
Will try 1/8 out on idle screw and see if I can mount the vacuum gages for a test ride 55 mph Using a carb gantry vacuum is perfect a 2000 rpm in stationary bike.
 
Not ignition, or cable sync. It wouldn't run as well as you claim if either of those were true. It would hesitate and maybe cough off idle if the sync was off. Sync doesn't change at mid throttle. It's either consistently good from idle to WOT or it is not.

How old is the head? It could be the valve stem seal isn't doing a great job on the plug on the right. Or other guesses... plug wires, coils, yadda yadda.

Chances are your throttle is barely open at 30mph.

Unless the plugs were new since making the needle adjustment, the 30mph plug reading is sort of meaningless. If as suggested, you get out on the open road and keep it at 60 for a while and the tune is good the plugs will actually self clean. It's a real thing if you know tuning. If the tune is off or you have a valve stem seal or ignition system issue (wires and so on) the plug on the cylinder with the issue won't self clean as well.

If it runs as you say, you may be looking for something wrong that isn't? Just ride it is another option.
 
" It's either consistently good from idle to WOT or it is not."

With the OEM single cable dual cable splitter I can routinely get perfect sync at idle - slides at precisely the same location in the bores - and out of sync at WOT - slides at slightly different positions. I purchases the gantry setup from Madass to eliminate this but, unfortunately, it wouldn't fit with my aftermarket fiberglass fastback tank from Burton Bike Bits. :(

It's not a huge amount of difference but if I adjust them to be perfectly in sync with throttle off, at WOT when the bottom of one slide is just clear of the bore, the other will still have another 1/16" or so to get clear.
 
It is far more important that the slides are synched at bottom rather than at top.
Yes it is, considering how little throttle gets used on the street, or at cruise. But they are usually very close all the way through the range. Maybe I'm doing it wrong though. lol
 
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