solid state warning light assimilator

Anyone used one of these? It was supposed to be a plug and play but is considerably larger than the original and will not fit the holder. Even with the holder removed, it wedges tight against the underside of the air box while the connecting wires are pressed up against the battery. I also don't like the idea of just jamming it under there without any proper mount. Strange that the solid state item was not made to fit the original mount. Miniaturization went backwards on this one.

Here is the old assimilator, the plastic mount / housing did a good job of holding it in place for forty years.



And here is the new bulkier item, nowhere to run to, nowhere to hide, more importantly nowhere to mount!



The original is definitely cooked

worntorn said:

Anyone used one of these? It was supposed to be a plug and play but is considerably larger than the original and will not fit the holder. Even with the holder removed, it wedges tight against the underside of the air box while the connecting wires are pressed up against the battery. I also don't like the idea of just jamming it under there without any proper mount. Strange that the solid state item was not made to fit the original mount. Miniaturiaztion went backwards on this one.

Here is the old assimilator, the plastic mount / housing did a good job of holding it in place for forty years.

Click to expand...

Why struggle with it? Just go with one of these LED Battery Status Monitors (BSM) "voltmeter designed to monitor the Voltage across a 6 or 12V battery. It is an easy to see indicator of what is happening to the battery, charging - not charging - over charging. Battery low - charging - fully charged.charging light. The BSM is protected against reverse connection and unlike an Ammeter is immune to vibration. The BSM incorporates an ambient light sensor that dims the LED for night time. Intended for mounting in the headlamp shell or in or below the dashboard on cars. Instructions are supplied".

They simply require connection into the wiring loom, no extra assimilator to worry about. And they tell you a lot more.

Look about qtr way down this page: http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffyelectrex.htm

Eddie, with this bike I just want to ride it . It runs great other than the assimilator problem. If I start in with rewiring anything I know where it will end, three years from now the bike will still be sitting completely stripped down waiting for reassembly with multiple "upgrades"
So I thought, just be lazy and replace only the broken part, buy it, plug it in, no rewiring and go.
Not working out tho!

Glen

worntorn said:

Eddie, with this bike I just want to ride it . It runs great other than the assimilator problem. If I start in with rewiring anything I know where it will end, three years from now the bike will still be sitting completely stripped down waiting for reassembly with multiple "upgrades"
So I thought, just be lazy and replace only the broken part, buy it, plug it in, no rewiring and go.
Not working out tho!

Glen

Click to expand...

There are two connections involved in fitting one of these BSMs Glen! Job done, fit and forget, last forever LED!

What happens to the seven existing wires that are attached to the assimilator if the assimilator is done away with?

Glen

worntorn said:

What happens to the seven existing wires that are attached to the assimilator if the assimilator is done away with?

Glen

Click to expand...

Good point.

Terribly sorry old chap, but I've no idea!

Hopefully someone cleverer will chime in shortly...

worntorn said:

What happens to the seven existing wires that are attached to the assimilator if the assimilator is done away with?

Click to expand...

Tape up the individual connectors (standard "non-Canadian assimilator" models).

Thanks Les
So, to be clear, everything other than the charge light will function if the assimilator is removed and the seven wires are dead ended ( two are double, five terminals)?
US bike.

Glen

worntorn said:

So, to be clear, everything other than the charge light will function if the assimilator is removed and the seven wires are dead ended ( two are double, five terminals)?

Click to expand...

Yes, nothing else should be affected (standard 06-6393 assimilator & wiring).

(Canadian automatic lights-on assimilator: 06-6392)

Will give this a try along with one of Eddie's LEDs

Thanks
Glen

LED voltage indicator ordered.
For now and because it is not returnable, I tried the bike with the solid state assimilator in place. When last run a year ago the charging system was not functioning, plus the charge indicator light did not work.
With the new assimilator in place, the light came on, but would only go off after thirty five hundred rpm or more.
Since I have a new 200 watt PODtronics reg made for the Lucas 180 watt rm23, it made sense to install it rather than start trouble shooting the 40 year old rectifier , the zener diodes and related wiring.
With the rectifier and diodes removed and the PODtronics installed, the charge indicator light came on brighter than I have ever seen it, in fact all lights are brighter than ever, but the charge indicator light will not go off at any RPM!

After deliberately running the battery down from its resting 13.6 volts to aboutv12 volts by leaving the headlight on with engine off, I started the bike and ran it around the block, which is 4 miles. A check of the battery voltage after showed 13.8 volts, so the charging system is working very well, even tho the charge light disagrees.
In any case, the charge light will get disconnected and the assimilator removed when the voltage indicating LED gets installed.

Glen

MY ORIGINAL ASSIMILATOR STOPPED WORKING ON A RALLY ONE TIME, BUT THE BIKE KEPT GOING. When I gat home I studied the wiring and worked out the assimilator only switches the warning light on and off and has nothing else to do with the charging system. So I wired in a 5 terminal relay [ the one where one terminal is power off ]. works fine, and especially the price. $8-9.00 instead of $44.00 as advertised on Trademe.

I have taken Eddies advice and ordered a battery voltage monitor LED. In fact they seem like such a clever device that I ordered six in the 8 mm size.
These have autodimming for night riding, but still just use two wires for connection. Reasonable price too.

http://www.sparkbright.co.uk/products/p ... se810.html

Glen

I have an ampmeter on my Norton, but those voltage monitor LEDs look so cool I think I should have them on all my bikes.

OK with positive ground?

Onder said:

OK with positive ground?

Click to expand...

If you are asking about SparkBrite. Yes. I have one on my Norton and the same model on my Gold Wing. They work great.

drones76 said:

Onder said:

OK with positive ground?

Click to expand...

If you are asking about SparkBrite. Yes. I have one on my Norton and the same model on my Gold Wing. They work great.

Click to expand...

Those SparkBrights look cool. What size would the Commando use? I have an unused yellow light on my Combat since I don't have turn indicators/blinkers. Might be a nice modification.

I ordered the 8 mm to go in the MK 3 housing. The 8 mm requires a 12 mm hole.
Same as you, I have an unused light in the 650 ss chrome headlight, the same headlight as the early commandos. I also ordered an 8 mm unit for that, it should match the green highbeam indicator for size.

Glen

Thx for the info on postive ground. They look like a great idea despite the steep price.
8mm it is then.

Sorry to hijack the thread, but where do you guys connect the SparkBrite to? the ignition switch? Headlamp? I have no idea.