Slipping clutch vs. Sticking clutch

Guys, can someone explain to me what the difference between a sticking clutch and slipping clutch is?

I recently had my Combat in the shop to have the oil seals replaced as I'm a relative noob. The tech overfilled the gearbox with oil and i ended up having gear oil all over everything. Once I lowered the gear oil level, I stopped having leaking problem...but I'm guessing that gear oil is probably in the primary now.

On monday, I went to a Vintage Bike rally here in St. Louis. I shined up my bike and took her out for a spin. I thought that I would get on her a bit more than I have since I've fixed my Oil seal issues. The problem I was experiencing was new. When I would get on it, shift from 1st to second, it would shift easily, I would have low end power, but when the revs increased, the engine was spinning faster than I was getting power, (Kind of like the clutch was slightly engaged) it would eventually fix itself. I still have to test a bit more to see if I stay in the same gear, if I continue to have the same problem without shifting.

Is my problem a sticking clutch or a slipping one? I never noticed this issue before they took my primary off to replace the seals.

Thanks guys.

Slippy clutch. Clean everything with brake cleaner.
Although not related and would be an issue with a sticky clutch is to check clutch center for grooves,

If he overfilled the gearbox he probably overfilled the primary too.

Slipping clutch is the over-revving you are talking about.

Sticking clutch is when you have trouble getting it into gear, especially first.

After you remove the visual layer by polluting the friction surfaces pores with an oil solvent, sand the surfaces to dry flat ness. Ask your better half about how to use how water and detergent to clean greasy items to eat off of. If clutch stack too worn then spring tension is lowered to add to slippage. Usually this happens more often in 3r gear on 850's torque

Thanks guys, i took her for a spin just not and there was o issue whatsoever... She probably ran better than ive ever experienced before.....

I have ordered dynodaves clutchrod seal and when it arrives, i am going to pull it apart and clean it up. Yu guys are the best. Thanks!

Along with Dyno's seal put grease on the rod to help further stifle oil dribble and rod rust. Don't over fill tranny to factory levels either, just to cover the gears seen via inspection fill cover. I like ATF in trannies myself as for cooler running in the sleeve gear spaces and on clutch plates.

Do this to both sides of your bronze clutch plates, a shallow slot cut on both sides of the plates, 5 in each plate, use a Dremel cutting disc, 2mm blade, this will stop slippage with or without oil as long as clutch is adjusted correctly.
Regards Mike

What do the shallow slots do that the eccentric groves don't do? Maybe I'm being a bit stoopid but I can't see how the slots improves the clutch! Is it something to do with wiping the oil off the plates? If it does work I might do it to mine.

We did this 'back in the day' when C'mdos first came onto the market in New Zealand in the early '70's. Riding two up seemed always make the clutch let go in the hills.
The concentric grooves just didn't seem to work if to much oil in there , either migrating from the gearbox or from the primary oil supply.
The straight slots from centre to outside seemed always to work, my guess being that the concentric ones take a longer path for oil to clear.
Make sure that the slots are psaced evenly around each plate, both sides, but no two slots directly opposite each other.
When loading the clutch pack ,space each slotted plate so the concentric exits are evenly spaced around the clutch housing, so no two exits are in the same position.
Make sense??
Regards Mike

Thanks Mike it does make sense, I can't recall any problems with slipping clutches though! I have lapped all my plates so they are as flat as anything could be, hopefully this should give me a good set up, so when I finally get the MK3 together I'll try my best to get the clutch to slip.

Looks like johnymac has solved his problem

I just gave my clutch a clean and fitted Dyno Daves seal.
I posted the job on our local Kiwi Biker as posting it here is like telling Grandma how to suck......eggs.
heres a couple of pics including my home made special tool.



Took about an hour and a half.....then I found other things that needed attention.....still better than doing garden chores... :roll:

These things are pretty all the way to the bone. The slots also provide a bit more friction d/t the edges encountering sliding surface. Its the claimed principle of wave/slotted brake rotors. Hack saw blade may do the trick.

72Combat said:

I just gave my clutch a clean and fitted Dyno Daves seal.
I posted the job on our local Kiwi Biker as posting it here is like telling Grandma how to suck......eggs.
heres a couple of pics including my home made special tool.

Took about an hour and a half.....then I found other things that needed attention.....still better than doing garden chores... :roll:

Click to expand...

Great pictures... Care to share the link to the site?

OK....but its low brow....
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showt ... h-Part-One
I suspect its a register-to-view-pics type of site...I tried to unlog to test but to no avail.
If I want informed intelligent opinions I come here and ADV rider.