Slimline frame dimensions needed

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I recently purchased a Triton project with a 1966 Atlas frame. Someone has cut the shock and exhaust mounts off the frame. I have searched the forum and the web but can’t find enough information to fab replacement parts. Or is their someone that offers these parts for sale? Thanks for the help!
 

Fast Eddie

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The slimline frame had those loopy shock mount tubes going on.

The best looking Tritons that Degens used to build used slimline frames with all that hacked off and a ‘normal’ wideline style rear sub frame welded on.

Really made one wonder why the factory didn’t do that, as it had the looks of a Manx frame but was slimmer in the middle.

Made for a very slim and nice looking bike.

You don’t need the exhaust mounts either, alloy footrest plates extended to the rear is the ‘norm’ on a Triton, this way you can design the plates to fit your pipes and forgo unnecessary excess brackets etc.
 

t ingermanson

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Can't vouch for the accuracy of the numbers, but here's a couple somethings:

Slimline frame dimensions needed
Slimline frame dimensions needed


I'm with @Fast Eddie on the aesthetics. The rear loops are easier and faster to make than the segmented subframe found on the Wideline if you're the factory and already have the box-section upper shock mounts, and the fabricated exhaust brackets. But, since none of us are so equipped, a wideline style might be easier as well as look better.

Andover Norton sells frame bits more closely resembling Manx frames than either of the standard road going Wideline frames. None of the tubes for AN are mitered though, so it's not an easy solution. The seat loop could probably be massaged to work on a Slimline and they've got a bunch of brackets and gussets that would be helpful.

There's several folks making aftermarket Featherbeds, so unless you've got the know-how and tools for fabrication, it might be easier to send it to one of those outfits. A buddy with a buzzbox MIG welder might do ok, but also might kill you.
 

Fast Eddie

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Can't vouch for the accuracy of the numbers, but here's a couple somethings:

View attachment 96311 View attachment 96312

I'm with @Fast Eddie on the aesthetics. The rear loops are easier and faster to make than the segmented subframe found on the Wideline if you're the factory and already have the box-section upper shock mounts, and the fabricated exhaust brackets. But, since none of us are so equipped, a wideline style might be easier as well as look better.

Andover Norton sells frame bits more closely resembling Manx frames than either of the standard road going Wideline frames. None of the tubes for AN are mitered though, so it's not an easy solution. The seat loop could probably be massaged to work on a Slimline and they've got a bunch of brackets and gussets that would be helpful.

There's several folks making aftermarket Featherbeds, so unless you've got the know-how and tools for fabrication, it might be easier to send it to one of those outfits. A buddy with a buzzbox MIG welder might do ok, but also might kill you.
Timmyc would be well advised to contact you IMHO !
 

lcrken

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Here's a couple more that I snagged off the web some time back. Like t i above, I can't vouch for their accuracy.

Slimline frame dimensions needed


Slimline frame dimensions needed


Slimline frame dimensions needed


Ken
 

lcrken

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And just for fun, the featherbed patent info.

Ken
 

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Thanks so much for all the drawings and suggestions. I have seen most of them and was going to start to compare them all to see if I could get a complete and accurate picture. I do like the idea of fabricating the parts to match the wideline design. I like the wideline look better than the slimline. I will post a few pics of what I decided to go with. Thanks again!
 

t ingermanson

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None of the drawings seem to have the placement of the upper shock mounting holes, just the loops. Do you need those? I can measure if needed.
 

lcrken

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Head angle give or take 5-6 degrees. ;););)

According to Ken Sprayson, all the featherbed frames originally had a 26 degree rake. Having said that, it's not uncommon to find one that is more like 24 degrees due to a crash. The telltale on those frames is usually a slight bend where the down tubes have bent just below the steering head.

Ken
 
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None of the drawings seem to have the placement of the upper shock mounting holes, just the loops. Do you need those? I can measure if needed.
Yes that is my point. All the drawings give you almost enough info to make the parts. Yes any dim that you can provide to locate and replicate the shock mounts would be much appreciated. Thank you!
 

t ingermanson

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Here's what I measured on a '57 Wideline. I can vouch for this frame only, but the numbers were so startlingly round, that I can only assume they are correct.

I did a rudimentary drawing (length of string as compass, etc) and drew it on 1" sq graph paper. The squares are actually not that square, but it gives the drawing some reference and a rough scale. The numbers are true and accurate (as much as you can get with a pretty thickly painted frame), even if the radii and graph paper are not. The numbers were drawn using a scale and not to the printed squares.

The horizontal reference is the top of the top rails (up to the point where they begin to arc up toward the headstock), and the vertical reference is the back of the seat rails.

If anyone wants to double check my numbers, please add to this!

Since you're building a Triton, maybe get the Slimline seat you'd like to use (if it'll be an off-the-shelf item) and build the profile of the top rails to fit within the seat's confines, to the pertinent dimensions below.

I think that seat loop from Andover would be a good place to start, and the plates, gussets, fender, seat and tank mounts are probably worth buying done and ready to weld together. My 2 cents.

The shock mount plates for the Andover frame more closely resemble the Manx, rather than the shape of the road Widelines' plates, but the holes should be in the same spot.

The oil tank mounts are different between the Manx and the road bikes, but you'll not be able to fit a Manx style tank into the Slimline anyway.

Andover shows the subframe tubes being 3/4", but the later road Wideline bikes (not bolt-up) are definitely 1".

Good luck!
 

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Here's what I measured on a '57 Wideline. I can vouch for this frame only, but the numbers were so startlingly round, that I can only assume they are correct.

I did a rudimentary drawing (length of string as compass, etc) and drew it on 1" sq graph paper. The squares are actually not that square, but it gives the drawing some reference and a rough scale. The numbers are true and accurate (as much as you can get with a pretty thickly painted frame), even if the radii and graph paper are not. The numbers were drawn using a scale and not to the printed squares.

The horizontal reference is the top of the top rails (up to the point where they begin to arc up toward the headstock), and the vertical reference is the back of the seat rails.

If anyone wants to double check my numbers, please add to this!

Since you're building a Triton, maybe get the Slimline seat you'd like to use (if it'll be an off-the-shelf item) and build the profile of the top rails to fit within the seat's confines, to the pertinent dimensions below.

I think that seat loop from Andover would be a good place to start, and the plates, gussets, fender, seat and tank mounts are probably worth buying done and ready to weld together. My 2 cents.

The shock mount plates for the Andover frame more closely resemble the Manx, rather than the shape of the road Widelines' plates, but the holes should be in the same spot.

The oil tank mounts are different between the Manx and the road bikes, but you'll not be able to fit a Manx style tank into the Slimline anyway.

Andover shows the subframe tubes being 3/4", but the later road Wideline bikes (not bolt-up) are definitely 1".

Good luck!

Edit: Just noticed the file got cropped somewhere along the line. I'll get the uncropped version tomorrow at work.
Thank you very much!! That is the info I needed. I truly appreciate all your input. Enjoy your day
 

t ingermanson

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Thank you very much!! That is the info I needed. I truly appreciate all your input. Enjoy your day
Just replaced the drawing with the uncropped version in the above post.

No sweat. This forum has been a big help to me, so I'm happy to do what I can to help others.

Let me know if you need any other dimensions.
 
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Just replaced the drawing with the uncropped version in the above post.

No sweat. This forum has been a big help to me, so I'm happy to do what I can to help others.

Let me know if you need any other dimensions.
Thank you, will do!
 

Fast Eddie

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This is an example of a slimline frame modified with a Manx style rear subframe. Makes a really nice, neat, slim frame. If you have a frame sans rear loops, this is definitely the way to go IMO:

Slimline frame dimensions needed
 
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Hi. I do like the look of the wideline rear And think I am go into go that route. I need to check a friends tubing bender to see how thigh of a radius it can bend in a 1” or 3/4” od tube. Any idea on a source for that style of header pipe? I really like the style that crosses over the side of the motor. Thx!
 

Fast Eddie

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They’re called swept back pipes, they’re available from a million suppliers! But beware, many are a sh*t fit as demonstrated by the number of Tritons etc out there with drooping silencers :eek:
 
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