Slider bushing specs

I've got the forks apart, and am wondering... what are specs for new bushings to compare with my old ones. '74 MKIIA. I am cheap, (for a reason),so I'm not swapping out new unless I am convinced I need to.
I do plan on using the Pro Moly Leak Proof seals when it goes back together.
Thanks!

Hi, two thou clearance [.002] between stanchions and bush's, But due to other factor's ie wear,plus the stanchions will never be "dead" true, So some easing may be required [rubbing off high spots]Due to manufacturing you will find replacement parts have iffy clearance's anyway, it being quite common for rebuilt forks having as much play after rebuilds! or more common sticking,
avoid cheap parts, replacement Bronze bush's often are just brass, i have seen some rubbish, last ebay purchace [not me] was fork bush's 4 thou .004 tapered in the bore :!:

BEFORE you remove any bush insides, place them on stanchions and tap around them with hammer to make them more really round. Also roll both stanchions together to reveal untrueness and possible corrections back closer to straight alone bush sliding section. The bushes are the least area of strictions, the springs inside stanchions are the primary hang up for slick action. Once assembled put on center stand to lift front off floor and give careful back and forth motion and see how much and where the the slight slack occurs. That will be top bush clearance fit on stanchions showing up.

The bronze bushings seem to be tight, but the bottom steel ones have some visible wear on outside, and one side is more loose on tit's fork than it's opposite number. Using the shop manual's instruction, I put them back on and pulled the leg out to where the bush's (bushes?) are closest together and did get some small amount of noticeable movement. i don't know what constitutes acceptable movement, but I could rock it around just a bit. It seems to me the lower bush would be allowing this action. Sound right?

"BEFORE you remove any bush insides,"
What's that mean?

I mean that before you assume the ID of new bushes are too small-tight and take off material inside - they might just be a bit out of round, right out the box and can fit right and slide well by just tapping them by hammer while trying to 'force' them, onto the stanchions. Similar to fixing out of round right out the box new Amal bores lightly whammering over a big dowel.

Also that any slack you can detect in sliders is not likely from the tough steel bottom ones wearing out from rubbing on soft Al but the normal slack of top brass bushes.

Glad I asked, I thought you were talking about the old bushes. I couldn't get my mind around it. Thanks!

john robert bould said:

Hi, two thou clearance [.002] between stanchions and bush's,

Click to expand...

My top bushes are at least that tight, so I guess I'm good to go.
I gotta put this back together before I forget how........

For slickest sliding - slick up the outside of springs and inside of stanchions once ya get the top bush mostly really round fitting even clearance on stanchions - w/o touching bush ID. Have ya rolled the tubes against each other for that trueness test? That'll get you up to snuff for the miss assembled as factory issued Commando forks but still retains the authentic deviation by Norton bean counters away from proper Roadholders from what the actual designers had in mind. Takes 3 more steps to get them back to full fine function as designed, but not sold. Move up damper taper holes, staggered best, 2" longer damper rods and 2" long extra spring spacer of your choice of spring rate, very soft to retain stock sage height or variable stronger via an ole valve spring. Add a fork brace and power steering fluid and go hunt down the worse pavement and pot holes in glee.

Thanks, Hobot, for the upgrade info. This time around I'm just trying to get back to the start/base line.

Next thing to deal with.