Hi,
Just finished a real easy wheel bearing job on my 72 Commando
Drive axle out with a brass drift from the rhs brake side and separate the two sections.
Remove collar on lhs with pin tool or punch (rh thread)
Turn hub over and insert axle through the double row bearing. Hit the axle with just enough force to move the bearing and spacer back down the hub and dislodge the single row bearing on the opposite side. Since you are going to replace bearings anyway it doesn't matter that you are using force on the inner ring.The spacer on my assembly came out with the bearing because the large flange came off the end and stayed in the hub, maybe I hit too hard.
That was all good so I was able to drop a large socket onto the flange resting on the bearing still in the hub and push the double row bearing back out of the hub together with the spacer felt seal and pinned washer. Check spacer for damage and if necessary refit flange.
Otherwise just put the axle through the spacer still in the hub drive it back the other way and force the double row bearing out.
To reassemble replace with sealed bearings.
Sealed single row bearing, no dramas because the dimension are the same. Replace with a big socket or correct size drift. Do not use axle.
Refit spacer, felt, if you wish, and tighten up ring.
A double row bearing will be wider, near as dammit to 17.5mm so there is a 1.5 mm difference.
Some say "remove the same amount from the spacer to make up for the thicker bearing."
Most hubs you will find are already machined deep enough to accept thicker bearing so the existing spacer can still be pressed hard against both bearings. So why bother shortening the spacer?
I used the same spacer and drove the bearing home with the old bearing which I had ground down to loosely fit the hub.The spacer and large washer were installed and fitted perfectly, no room for the felt and no need as the bearing is sealed.
I reinstalled the brake hub and refitted the wheel.
Was there an issue? yes, but nothing to sweat over, the brake hub stood 1.5mm proud of the rest of the wheel, of couse.
thanks for listening
Richard
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Just finished a real easy wheel bearing job on my 72 Commando
Drive axle out with a brass drift from the rhs brake side and separate the two sections.
Remove collar on lhs with pin tool or punch (rh thread)
Turn hub over and insert axle through the double row bearing. Hit the axle with just enough force to move the bearing and spacer back down the hub and dislodge the single row bearing on the opposite side. Since you are going to replace bearings anyway it doesn't matter that you are using force on the inner ring.The spacer on my assembly came out with the bearing because the large flange came off the end and stayed in the hub, maybe I hit too hard.
That was all good so I was able to drop a large socket onto the flange resting on the bearing still in the hub and push the double row bearing back out of the hub together with the spacer felt seal and pinned washer. Check spacer for damage and if necessary refit flange.
Otherwise just put the axle through the spacer still in the hub drive it back the other way and force the double row bearing out.
To reassemble replace with sealed bearings.
Sealed single row bearing, no dramas because the dimension are the same. Replace with a big socket or correct size drift. Do not use axle.
Refit spacer, felt, if you wish, and tighten up ring.
A double row bearing will be wider, near as dammit to 17.5mm so there is a 1.5 mm difference.
Some say "remove the same amount from the spacer to make up for the thicker bearing."
Most hubs you will find are already machined deep enough to accept thicker bearing so the existing spacer can still be pressed hard against both bearings. So why bother shortening the spacer?
I used the same spacer and drove the bearing home with the old bearing which I had ground down to loosely fit the hub.The spacer and large washer were installed and fitted perfectly, no room for the felt and no need as the bearing is sealed.
I reinstalled the brake hub and refitted the wheel.
Was there an issue? yes, but nothing to sweat over, the brake hub stood 1.5mm proud of the rest of the wheel, of couse.
thanks for listening
Richard
