Shifting issues (kind of long post)

OK,
the bike starts on second kick and idles OK. I improvised some rider footpegs and was going to go on my first (careful) around the block test ride. I pull in the clutch lever, put the shifter into first gear and "klunk", the bike dies.
It seemed like the clutch never disengaged to allow me to shift into 1st. The bike didn't have the levers or a clutch cable when I first bought it. Got the parts on ebay and installed the cable a couple of weeks ago. A few things from today:
I don't have the adjuster that goes on the lever. I installed the cable as is and it "felt" like the clutch was working properly. There was a little bit of free play on the clutch operating lever, and the lever was at an apx 45 degree angle (per manual). I turned the clutch pushrod screw as far in as I could and tried to shift into first. "Klunk". I turned the pushrod all the way out and tried again."Klunk".
I removed the clutch cable, and I then took the cable adjuster from the front brake and reinstalled the cable. It was a P.I.T.A. to get the cable hooked to the lever. I had to remove the handlebar lever itself, attach cable to clutch operating lever, then attach the handlebar lever. At this point it didn't feel like the clutch was working. I tried to shift, and klunk. Turn pushrod in, then out with same results.

This is frustrating, as I'd really like to run the bike through the gears. What do you think? Is my clutch cable too short? Maybe the clutch plates are stuck together? Is my adjustment routine all wrong?
I'd really appreciate any input on this one. Don't assume I'm an idiot, presume that I am one and go from there

Thanks as always,

DS

first thing to try is pull in clutch lever and kick it through. it should NOT have any resistance. if it turns the motot than the clutch is stuck. you could try to free it by kicking it with the clutch lever pulled in. if it wont free of than the clutch will have to come apart.

windy

Do as Bill says. If the clutch plates were getting oily they tend to stick together. You should be able to ride it though, after you kick it through while holding the clutch lever in to separate the plates. If they were that oily you'll likely have to take them out and clean them because they will continue sticking after they sit for a while.

Breaking clutch plates loose

Greetings,
Haven't had that problem with my Commando ( belt primary, dry clutch), but, every spring when I used to drag out my old Bonneville for the first ride the clutch would be stuck. Before you take it apart try this trick, start the engine push the bike (or maybe roll down a little hill) and stick it in gear. Hold the clutch lever in and take a little ride, while you are at it jerk the throttle on and off several times, that always worked for me. If it doesn't work then its time to take it apart.

GB

Hope you get this problem fixed. We've some riding to do. Thanks again for your help on getting my bikes picture posted.

I can't imagine that a cable could ever fit correctly with no form of free - play adjuster (and if it's right now, it won't be for long).

I'm not sure from your post if you've checked the clutch operating lever in the gearbox - symptoms sound as if it's dropped down. Slacken off pushrod adjusting screw, remove gearbox inspection cap and hook the lever up from underneath with your index finger. It can drop against the roller into a false hollow and will never give enough lift like that.

madcarpenter,

I assume you have heard of Bob Bennet and thus your username?

I like it. Personally, I think He's who He says He is.

Haha, no. I used to be a carpenter (among other things) and during a particularly long, hot SC summer I would take a daily dive off the roof into the lake below the house.
My co-workers said I had gone mad from the heat and the nickname sort of came out of that.
Anyways, back to the bike. It turns out I have the wrong clutch cable. The cable length is correct, the housing is too long. Thanks to Easley cycle repair for the correct cable. Its now obvious that the plates are stuck together. I have tried kicking the bike in 1st gear with the clutch lever held in, and the bike scoots along the shop.
Any easy way to break the plates loose?

DS

GB gave you the easy way, roll down a hill drop it into gear and ride till you break it loose. But if it does not break loose beware that stopping is going to be an adventure you may find the ride scary for sure. In the long run you will be better served learning this clutch maintenance right now and going forward from there. Clutch tools are about 20.00 or you can make your own out of and old steel round electrical box and a 1/2 fine thread bolt and nut.

The bike will always try to move forward if you kick it over in gear, whether the clutch is pulled in or not.....put it in neutral, then pull in the clutch and then try kicking it through. If you have enough compression that should free off the plates after a few kicks!

I went ahead and split the primary and cleaned the clutch plates. They were damp with fluid (?), so I cleaned them with brake parts cleaner, let them air dry for a few hours.
I'll reassemble everything in the morning, and go from there. I appreciate all the replies and suggestions

I'll update in the morning

DS

How are the steel plates? It's a good time to check em for pitting or warping. I always used to buff the glaze off them with fine emery cloth moving 90' across the plates.

That's a good idea on making a tool. I made the last one I had from a fan pulley but I had use of a lathe then to turn it to the size I wanted.
I'll have to service my clutch soon and an electrical box is easy to come by.

Yeah, that's a great idea! I improvised my 1st one out of a sink drain with some spacers off the bike and used the lower transmission fixing stud which has the same thread. Low and behold it was still assembled when I retrieved all my stuff after 25 years in storage.



Posts like that are often lost in the archives after a while. It would be an idea to create a special page on the site for tool tips and another for modifications. You can get a clutch hub puller on ebay for $20.00 but after shipping and waiting a week, going to the hardware store for an electrical box and bolt is alot cheaper and faster. It would be handy to compile all these tips in an easy to find spot for quick and easy reference.

The norton shifts like a dream now. I let the bike sit for an extra day, fired it up while ago and it shifted well through all the gears. I have smooth action at the lever, no gorilla grip needed.
Now on to the next items on my list

Thanks again to everyone on the forum that responded with tips and suggestions!

DS

For a sticky clutch i read to push start and have in neutral, then slam on the rear brake to free them up. Any of the above ways will work tho.