Setting POints timing (2011)

To the point that I need to set the points and timing on my cafe project. Can anyone share there step by step process? Is it different if I'm using a points ignition, single coil, and sparx ignition?

All ignitions get set so max advance is just right, then once started diddled so no backfire to start then use time light to mark where its set. W/o degree wheel you are just guessing-lucky to use factory cover dial.

On points ya move crank to 28'-32' BTDC position depending on model then with points gap opening prior set to .015", ya move back plate so they just about to open on edge of cam bump, while the advance mech. is hand held-probe or bolt-washer clamped to full advance position. Double check with a plug out on head and watch it spark then look where crank position is. Make sure proper jug had valve rocker a tad lose to know its the right one to fire on. In mine b/w goes to the RH b/y to LH. Watch out for ballast resistor smoke too.

The workshop manual, section C38, describes the procedure:

http://rocbo.lautre.net/technique/norto ... p/061.html

drc

To set points ignition timing accurately, you will need a meter to measure the dwell angle (amount of rotation in degrees the points are closed for), and a strobe light to check the timing marks line up at specified engine speed.

On bikes which have had all the ignition parts replaced with new there is no real need for a dwell meter, but on those using original ignition parts, wear will mean its very difficult to set points accurately using feeler gauges.

Before setting the timing up, the condition of the points needs to be considered, and if they are burnt or worn should be replaced, ideally changing the condensors at the same time.

Next thing is to check the dwell angle using a meter, and adjusting to the specified figure, and finally checking the firing point using a strobe light at the RPM specified by the manufacturer.

Actually not a bad idea though not mentioned in manual nor needed in Nortons. Here's selection of these meters I may be able to barrow from real mechanic as useless clutter nowadays. Also can fine tune the condenser to contact area too for longer lasting contacts and sharper hitting sparks.

I realize that there is no factory dwell spec for Lucas points ignition. I'm curious if anyone has ever checked the dwell after setting their points with a feeler gauge, buzz box or bulb? If so, what reading did you get?
I always liked to set my points at the wide end [.016"] so that they would stay in spec longer. You guys who only had to set points once a year must not have driven your bike very hard. Seems every time I'd take my Triumph or Norton out for an alcohol [hey, I was younger then ] fueled romp with my buddies [100 mph + for miles], the next day, my valves would be loud and my timing was retarded [heel on the points wore down]. The hang over just made it more noticeable!

I have set tons of car engine points and dual points on 4 cylinder bikes and cars. The Commando seems overly difficult.
I am taking notes.