Seal a new tank?

Did the search but no satisfactory results. I have purchased a new steel tank.
Should it, does it need to be sealed? I dont want to deal with sealer flaking off in the future.
What is the accepted procedure? Can I leave it bare internally? If it requires sealer, now is the time.
Thanks MikeM

I would say , if ethanol is in your gas locally or you might have to burn it in the future you would want to seal it now ...
Craig

If it's an Emgo tank, I'd resist the idea of sealing it until after I tested it with a half tank of gas, sealed with a cap, maybe let it sit in the sun to build a little pressure for a couple days. Gas seems to be able to slip through the smallest cracks. I wouldn't bother if it passes a leak test. I've had a tank pressure tested (3 psi) with water and it tested fine, but it leaked later with gas. If it's bare steel inside you can always rinse it out with a phosphate solution to add some rust protection.

You can always seal it later down the road, but removing failed sealer is extremely hard, and probably impossible for epoxy.

If it's an India tank with a welded bottom, I'd seal it without question with Caswell.

Seal it now. That new Emgo tank was probably made from a recycled Hyundai. Over the years I have done old rusty steel tanks with Kreem and they are still in use after 25 years. Some people don't like that stuff. It's all in the prep. I've used Caswell's in old fiberglass tanks and had it fail. Two part epoxy is just one more hassle. I have bought several new Harley after market tanks from Custom Chrome which tested out fine, but I seal them anyway. I have been using a sealer from http://www.hirschauto.com . Made right here in my home state which is a toxic waste dump...so you know they have some good stuff in there. Just get the complete kit. Whether new or old the key is prep....Clean...Etch...Seal. I have learned to do it from the start so you don't have to worry about that pretty paint job later.

Yes, the only fuel available is ethanol, I dont want to seal it if its not necessary HOWEVER I dont want any leaks or flaking failing sealers.
Its a tank from Commando Specialties and looks pretty good. Couldnt budget the $400 unit. I had to ditch the glass one due to the ethanol fuel.

MikeM said:

Yes, the only fuel available is ethanol, I dont want to seal it if its not necessary HOWEVER I dont want any leaks or flaking failing sealers.
Its a tank from Commando Specialties and looks pretty good. Couldnt budget the $400 unit. I had to ditch the glass one due to the ethanol fuel.

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If it were me, I'd test it thoroughly and leave it unlined. Just one less thing to worry about IMHO.

it is after a new tank so if it leaks I would either send it back of have it properly fixed by a welder so it does not leak. IMHO all sealers will eventually fail.

Do all my tanks with this stuff. Good up to 50% ethanol mix.
http://www.damonq.com/techsheets/red-kote.pdf
JUG

First, pressure test the new tank (ANY tank prior to expensive paintwork) , replace/repair as needed. A simple rubber plug rig, shop air regulated to 3 PSI, dish soap/water in a spray bottle works great.

Second, there is no need, nor any logical reason to "seal" a new tank that isn't leaking.

concours said:

First, pressure test the new tank (ANY tank prior to expensive paintwork) , replace/repair as needed. A simple rubber plug rig, shop air regulated to 3 PSI, dish soap/water in a spray bottle works great.

Second, there is no need, nor any logical reason to "seal" a new tank that isn't leaking.

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I agree. I think sealing a tank that isn't leaking only introduces the possibility of sealant failing and creating engine damage. Seems the efficacy of tank sealants being reported here is about 50/50.

Do people still believe that steel incorporating scrap is somehow inherently inferior?
They have obviously never how steel is made. The highest grade ore is likely less than 30% iron, compared to scrap, *very* low grade.

All smelting processes for regular iron which goes into steel actually *need* scrap to make the process viable.

Any impurities are burnt off to the level required by the specification, whether from the ground or the comparatively clean scrap doesn't matter.
Then any alloying ingredients necessary are added. The resulting quality is determined by what the customer is prepared to pay, not the process itself.


Sorry for the OT.

Test the tank, use something "searching".
If at all possible, leave it clean and clear of anything that could be affected by future fuel contents.

Forget the sealing. The sealant will fail before the steel. If it does fail without sealing, the steel can still be repaired without repairing the sealant. Just keep the tank full when stored, especially if you have ethanol, or drain it and coat it inside with some protection, perhaps a bit of kerosene or diesel, or take it off the bike and put it inside for the winter. It's not a big project. YMMV.

I would never use sealer on a new tank. You have to consider, that with the sealer it is the very last time you repair anything at the tank.